Build a bulletproof shortblock. How would YOU do it?

[1SIC1Gb]

So we are talking 6 bolt shortblock here. What would you do, what parts would you use to make it as strong as possible and why?
6 bolt Block, 6 bolt head. Auto trans. Drag only car.

Fill in the Categories below and why you would use or do that.

Crank (stock stroke, 100mm, Eagle,?)


Rods (turbo tuff, aluminum, ? I or h, length, wrist pin, ?)


Pistons ( compression, coated, weisco, JE, ?)


Bearings (ACL Race)?


Bolts/ Studs, (Rods, Main, Head)?


Headgasket? (MLS, Cometic, Permatorque, or ?)


Accessories ( Kiggly main girdle, etc)?


Filled block (1/2, 3/4, Full fill?)

Cryo Treated? Anything I may have missed?

 

[myfirstgsx]

Callies crank best money can buy or a magnus
turbo tuff rods proven to hold 1000 horse power
wiseco pistons they use a 20 ton press everyone else uses a 10 ton press
King race they are just awesome
ARP L19 best in the world
kiggly plus a dry oil sump when taking off the motor gets starved for oil ask magnus on that one
1/2 filled that's what magnus does

ati super dampner
long balance shaft kit " race" jay motor sports

 

[white92talontsi]

There's no need to get crazy with it.

Crank--Stock crank, if your iffy about a stock crank then a 88mm Winberg.(btw stock crank has went 7.70@196mph)

Rods-R&R Aluminums in 150mm flavor

Pistons-Wiseco 1400hd's at 10.5:1

Bearings-Clevite 77's or ACL's doesnt matter as long as clearance is where it needs to be

Bolts-ARP mains and ARP +625's or H11's

Headgasket-O.E. MLS. You can O-ring if desired but you need to run the ring in the block and a receiver groove in the head with the proper wire. That will change what headgasket you use

Accessories-Kiggly Girdle. Meziere Electric Water pump.

Cylinder head- Weld all coolant jackets shut in the head. Weld a AN fitting on the Timing belt side of the head.

Block-Fully filled to the top, Sonic check the cylinder walls. Make sure all machine work is perfect. Smooth out any rough casting marks inside the bottom end as well.

Lots of Time, patience and experience. If you don't have the experience then I would suggest doing a lot of research.

You can run a stock front case/oil pump with deburred gears with no balance shafts. You will need to regularly inspect the oil pump. you will need a baffled pan to keep the pickup tube from becoming uncovered.

Kiggle HLA. Vent the ever living shit out of the crankcase. Keep as much oil out of the head as possible.

Theres a lot more to it but that is just a quick run down. This would be a setup that would take a DSM well into the low low 8's depending on the fuel/turbo setup.


A dry sump oiling system is preferred but as I stated you can run a OEM oil pump and front case.

Callies crank best money can buy or a magnus
turbo tuff rods proven to hold 1000 horse power
wiseco pistons they use a 20 ton press everyone else uses a 10 ton press
King race they are just awesome
ARP L19 best in the world
kiggly plus a dry oil sump when taking off the motor gets starved for oil ask magnus on that one
1/2 filled that's what magnus does

ati super dampner
long balance shaft kit " race" jay motor sports

Race balance shaft kit is the last thing I would put in a Race motor. Run a stub shaft with straight cut gears and call it a day. No way in hell I would have that shaft in a race motor that plans to turn north of 10,000rpm. That would put that shaft turning 20,000rpm and that is a recipe for disaster.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Interesting you would take aluminum rods over some Turbo Tuff's. I definitely see the reason but they are close to the same price and don't have to be replaced or checked ever. Do the Aluminum rods really free up that much power?

Can you drive a car on the street at all with say a 1/2 filled block?
I still am going to take it to local meets maybe 2x a year.

 

[white92talontsi]

Interesting you would take aluminum rods over some Turbo Tuff's. I definitely see the reason but they are close to the same price and don't have to be replaced or checked ever. Do the Aluminum rods really free up that much power?

Can you drive a car on the street at all with say a 1/2 filled block?
I still am going to take it to local meets maybe 2x a year.

What do you want. You asked for a setup for a drag only car. Now you mention driving on the street.

Aluminum Rods do not free up horsepower. First they are lighter than a steel rod. The biggest benefit to aluminum rods is it acts like a shock absorber and in turn this reduces the hammering on the rod bearings 10 fold.

Aluminum rods are way cheaper than a set of turbo tuffs. I'd run them in my daily driver without issues.

It does not sound like this is the kind of motor you are looking for though. A 1/2 fill on a 4g is pointless. 1/2 fill only gets you to the bottom of the water pump channel and that really is only about 2 inches up from the bottom of the bore. All the cylinder pressure is at the top of the bore.

There are some trick on ways you can fill a block past the water pump channel and daily drive it but it's not something I really want to discuss. Some things are just better left for people to learn on there own.


You asked what would we build, I am telling you what I would build. Maybe you should specify what power goals you are looking for and what "you" want to do with the car not what "we" would do.

BTW, there are quite a few 8 second "wet" block 4g63's out there. You can throw all the best parts money has to buy at it but at the end of the day experience will prevail on how to make said parts work correctly and last for more than just 1 pass down the track.

 

[WES_393]

Crank--Stock crank, if your iffy about a stock crank then a 88mm Winberg.(btw stock crank has went 6.57@204mph)

Fixed.

 

[1SIC1Gb]

I believe everything you mentioned would be fine to drive on the street a few times a year, apart from the Filled block of coarse.

I am just wanting to see what different people would do for a drag build. I may alter my shortblock year by year as the car gets faster. I have 2 complete 6 bolt longblocks so I can build one throughout the year, and run the other then swap easily. This year I am going to push the limits of the stock shortblock and build my secondary.

Good info here. Im new to the Filling of blocks but I know its been done on a few cars here.

 

[11Banger]

Stock Crank
BME Alum Rods
HDs pistons "10.5-1"
Girdle
L19's

Perfect build... & my current setup

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Where can you order BME rods??? I looked around but cant find anyone.
Like that build. Nice simple and strong.
How do you like the 10.5:1 Hows low end power vs lower comp.?

 

[JosephMiranda]

No one would butcher the stock crank?

 

[11Banger]

Where can you order BME rods??? I looked around but cant find anyone.
Like that build. Nice simple and strong.
How do you like the 10.5:1 Hows low end power vs lower comp.?

Forced engineering. Or if you know your rod specs they can build them for you. & I haven't been home to test the combo out yet...But I would imagine the "out of boost" performance is greater than low comp pistons. But the question was what is the best you could build & I told you

 

[11Banger]

No one would butcher the stock crank?

Along with my other reply, the stock crank is more than capable to handle anything you throw at it. There is a reason people run them over aftermarket ones

 

[1SIC1Gb]

Yeah I was just curious if it was a little easier to drive out of boost. Good info.

 

[11Banger]

Yeah I was just curious if it was a little easier to drive out of boost. Good info.

Yeah NP man.. I would contact FE on here & ask them. They are really good guys to do business with... Side note 1/2 fill for the win