Build me a shortblock

[dsmfa9nutter]

I'd really like someone to do a hypothetical "build" of a shortblock (pistons/rods/bearings) at the following price levels, 500, 1000, 1500. With, if possible, hp levels they'll survive to using a big 16g and a psi range of 15-20. Figure I already have a clean block and crank (2.0) to start with.

 

[qtxdevilz]

you can put a b16g on a stock 6 bolt or 7 bolt...run it to the max...and it will be fine...no need to build your motor...this is assuming you have everything tuned correctly with the right mods...

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Current engine is kaput. It's winter here in wisconsin and I've got a little extra cash laying around and more than enough time.

Already have/am getting:
Ported 2g exhaust manifold
1g intake
650 injectors
AFC
Rewired pump
Evo 3 gt (yes, I've read all about them)

 

[hostile]

I would go with eagle and wiseco's with a factory crankshaft. If your going to do a lot of street driving use some oversized factory pistons on stock rods.

 

[Deadmoans]

Check out my mods list. I just did a rebuild and it ran me about $6,500. Now that includes labor for the machine shop to disassemble, clean, bore, valve job and reassemble my block. I think the bill was $900 for the machine shop. Oh, they checked for cracks etc - the usual stuff. This also included balancing the crank pulley, crank and flywheel.

Now, I shredded, and I mean SHREDDED a balance shaft bearing. So I did some extras.

Here's the list:
Centerforce dual friction clutch
Stainless steel clutch line
Oil pump and cover
Mitsu oil cooler
Cometic gasket kit
Eagle crank
Wiseco pistons (+20)
ACL bearings
Balance shaft eliminator kit
Eagle connecting rods
New silcone boots for the piping
Redline fluid for the transfer case
BG syncro shift II for the tranny
Bushings for the shifter cables
Motor mount inserts
Upgraded timing belt
New flywheel insert
B&M short shifter
Silicone radiator hoses
New vacuum lines
Fluidampner crank pulley
Unorthodox pulleys (alt, wp and ps)

 

[dsm dork]

Current engine is kaput. It's winter here in wisconsin and I've got a little extra cash laying around and more than enough time.

Already have/am getting:
Ported 2g exhaust manifold
1g intake
650 injectors
AFC
Rewired pump
Evo 3 gt (yes, I've read all about them)

Just buy a used good engine for your car and swap it out. The MOST hp you will see out of that turbo without nitrous is ~420whp and any 4g63 can handle that no problem as long as you have the right tune and supporting mods.

 

[Ludachris]

Depends on who you have build it. I see that Buschur is charging $2k for a basic rebuilt shortblock with stock rods and pistons, Jackson Auto Machine is charging about that for a Stage 1 shortblock with 1g rods and Wiseco pistons, FFWD Connection doesn't post their prices but I'd assume they're in the same price range. Start making some calls. Those are the three I'd check with first - they are all on our Supporting Vendors page. Magnus would be another good place to call.

If you do it yourself, all you need to do is check pricing for the parts and labor rates for your local machine shops. A decent rebuild using stock internals should easily be able to handle your requirements.

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

The MOST hp you will see out of that turbo without nitrous is ~420whp

That's perfectly fine for me, my car only weighs 2100lbs, 10's if it would hook.

I plan on doing it myself, machine shops aren't a problem.


How about these mixed with these? Could that combo handle a few runs at 25psi?

 

[gsxtacy]

(a) 100K mile + stock block, head, AND cams could survive a EVO 3 B16G @ 25 all Day.

(b) Its all about the " TUNING " capabilites you have available to you.

Why buy the most expensive parts money can buy to desire such a simple goal? =

Stock NA 9:1 pistons/oem rods would survive with enough 116 octane and DSMlink........NA 6 bolt 4G63's are around $500 on Ebay- buy it now.

What chassis are you working with again? Edit: NM, I checked the profile..cool.. By the way I have a low mileage Evo III for sale....

 

[dsm dork]

Listen to gsxtacy.

 

[Ludachris]

That's perfectly fine for me, my car only weighs 2100lbs, 10's if it would hook.

I plan on doing it myself, machine shops aren't a problem.


How about these mixed with these? Could that combo handle a few runs at 25psi?

That combo would be way overkill for what you're trying to do. Again, Mitsu rods and pistons would be perfectly adequate for your plans.

 

[biglady112]

In my mirage I run stock rods and stock pistons. I am currently running 26psi on my SCM6176 on straight 91 octane. It is all in the tune. If the motor survives this season and 35psi+ of race gas abuse, I am going to put a GT42 on the stock motor to show that you can take the stock motor very high if you are careful.

Steven

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Would all of this apply the same to a 375-400hp daily driver? Then would my previous links be a better choice over stock rods/pistons? I'm only theorizing at the moment since the engine is still in the car (it's wisconsin and it's COLD outside is my excuse) but at this point I think I need new pistons and rods anyways.


Biglady, didn't you buy bosco's car? I was so close to getting a loan and a plane ticket for that thing!

 

[biglady112]

I did not buy Bosco's car. I believe he still has it. The someone with the screen name lostkause owned the car before. He was in highschool and hurt the motor. His parents made him get rid of the car. I bought it from the guy who got it from him. He did not know anything.

2G pistons and 1G rods still get my vote here. Manley pistons are way overkill for you here. Manley rods are definitely over kill for you as well. But, if you want them they are high quality pieces. I don't think you need anything more than maybe a standard eagle/ross motor. Keep it simple.

Steven