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1G Broken Trans Mount on Block

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project_tsi

Honorary DSM Wiseman
DSM Wiseman
2,699
118
Sep 4, 2004
Eau Claire, Michigan
So I pulled my trans today so I can take it up to TRE and right as I was pulling it out and down the tranny mount "ear" on the block fell off. This is the rear "ear" on the block. It just fell off when I pulled the trans off. Searching on some forums most have this problem with the front "ear" breaking off but no one with the rear "ear" like me.

If you recall this the hole for the small trans bolt that bolts in backwards.

I don't know if it was broken before I pulled the trans or what. Last time I drove the car I didn't notice anything weird with the drivetrain.

What should I do? Arc weld it back in place? Or since its the hole for the small bolt is it a big problem? I mean there is 3 other large diamater bolts to hold it but that mount was also a dowel pin locater.

Heres some pics of where it is. I don't have any pics of it broken off. The last pic I grabbed off of VFAQ.
 

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Dan without in that bolt the front ear will break off. I understand were your thinking were you dont need it since its so small but its in a corner of the trany were a bolt needs to be.
Call jon at tre and see what he says. Welding might not hold up in that area???
And it being an area were a dowl pin goes its a must. Yes you need the dowl pins as well
 
Yeah since its cast iron the only type of welding to do is ARC welding. I think I will arc it back up the best I can and try and find some more dowels. Maybe over this season is torqued back and forth a little bit a few times and broke it.
 
The transmission case is cast aluminum the engine block is cast iron. Yea the only way to weld it back up is with heli arc welder or TIG.
 
My rear bolt fell out and snapped off the front ear. I had it aligned with a spare bellhousing and then stick welded back into place. It worked fine for years afterwards, no reason you shouldn't be able to do the same on the rear ear.
 
Was it lilevo that happened to as well? It might have been the other ear you were talking about but he had it arc welded back on or was going to try that before anything else that would be a bit more drastic. Worst case scenario you might have to find another block but those are pretty cheap around here. Damn that sucks man good luck!
 
Well I did decide to just pull the motor yesterday, took about a whole 20 minutes LOL. I did go to a local welding shop and they hooked me up with some 1/8th" "60" nickel rod, and gave me a few tips on how to weld it. I'm going to have my uncle come over Wednesday to do the welding, he's been welding for 30+ years so I'll let him do it.

Anyways here's some pics of the damage.
 

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Well my uncle welded up the block today for me. We began by prepping the metal and grinding in "V"'s to allow better penetration of the weld. We then setup a type of holding jig to hold the piece on perfectly straight, then preheated the metals. My uncle did the welding and I followed behind and stress relieve peened it. We then heated it back up mildly a few more times and peened it again trying to make sure it wouldn't crack upon final cooling. Overall I don't think you could do any better for free. He welded up as much as he could and I don't think it will be problem holding up anymore. I'll be sure to pull the pan and replace the gasket.
 

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i wonder if any big dsm performance companies could create a kit to strengten those two weak points on our blocks....they would make killer cash....im thinking like plates and you weld them on those two places and it strenghtens the block 10x more....i for one would buy one.
 
Eh I think it was my own fault on why it broke actually. Set up correctly I don't think it will fail. When I got the car running towards the end of this season I kinda rushed it just to drive it for the last few weeks of last season. Well I didn't use a inspection plate on the block, nor did I use any dowel pins for alignment in the block (I couldn't find them). And one of the top bolts was missing but I don't remember forgetting that bolt. So with only 3 bolts and no dowel pins I think the added stress is what broke it. I believe the trans probably flexed a few times and snapped it from the tension it placed on the bolts.
 
Problem is there is only 4 bolts holding that big trany on. One or 2 more big bolts would help and we would see less breakage. The dowels do alot for keeping the trany straight but they only do so much. Im sure the poly engine and trany mounts help as well for keeping the trany from twisting.
 
Nah man not yet. Motors still out of the car. I'm waiting on a few drivetrain parts, as well as my new turbo and manifold to show up first.
 
ohh because see mine broke off too, and im pretty broke as im swaping a sr20 on a 240sx i just got. So i think im getting it welded, should i take it to a shop that has nothing to do with cars, or call around and find a mobile welding unit??

i mean i can take it out i got a cherry picker but its gonna be a pain taking it from shop to shop.
 
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