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Broken Radiator Hose Nozzle?

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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
Has anyone experienced an issue with the fitting(nozzle) from the top of the radiator breaking off? You know, the fitting that your upper radiator/coolant hose clamps onto?

I was driving home and about the time that I pulled onto my street I noticed steam coming out from under my hood. I pulled into the driveway, popped the hood, and wouldn't you know that my upper hose had blown off? So I was like " great... bad T-Stat? "

No. I looked closer and half of that damned nozzle had cracked and broken off. SO I only have about 3/4 of an inch to clamp the hose onto. -_-; And I HAVE to have this car running on a daily basis.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Is there a cheap/clever way to fix it?

I was thinking of heading to Lowes and getting a pipe fitting that has threads a little smaller than the diameter of the hole, threading it in with teflon tape, and then epoxying around the outside to seal it up and allow it to sit.

Any ideas?

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I'm not sure if I'd trust the way your thinking, it is clever though and might be possible. Hit the junkyard or ebay and pick up a new one. Could always switch to a honda half radiator if you are really worried about saving some pennies.

Maybe weld a new spout on the stock radiator, I can't remember the material the stock radiator is made of though.
 
that's happened to me , went to a junkyard, grabbed a radiator from there, one month later, that one broke also, so I just ended up buying a fluidlyne one ! Problem solved LOL
 
Same thing just happened to my 2G Talon, the top of the stock rad is some kind of plastic. Since it is high temp AND under pressure, I would not trust any type of JB Weld product. I just got a new aftermarket rad ($140)...and this top part is METAL!

Good luck...
 
That's 15 year-old brittle plastic for you... I've seen it many times over the years. The best solution is a replacement radiator. Any quick fix is just a gamble that very well leave you stranded somewhere when it fails again. Stock replacement radiators are cheap these days anyway. And a good condition used radiator should be dirt cheap.
 
Oh it's certainly some sort of plastic compound.

As I said above I need to have this resolved quickly as this is my DD. Hmmm.. strangely enough I've been saving for Ostrich so I have the money to replace the Rad. Thing is, the Rad isnt bad, just that nozzle. I don't feel justified in buying a new rad over this small issue.

I'm going to experiment with a couple of ideas, starting small and getting more complex to see if I can find a suitable repair process for this. If so many people have this happen, maybe I can come up with a cost effective way to bandaid it until a more permanent solution can be had for the individual.
 
no chap easy fix I tried for 2 months to find one then gave up parked her and saved up my pennies for an aluminum Rad. I've tried JB weld, Water Weld QuikSteel, nothing ever worked. you just gotta bite down and get an aluminum Rad you won't run into that problem again
 
Not a good place for a ghetto fix Kei. As soon as you start cutting or threading it, you're going to create more stress fractures due to it's age and deterioration.

Just bite the bullet and get a good aftermarket radiator; better cooling and you won't ever have to worry about it again. You can pick them up on eBay for super cheap these days, and they aren't half bad.
 
I'm not 100% positive but I think it's an ABS plastic, and once they break down from heat it gets worse fast. You won't be able to thread anything into it and have it hold, and I doubt JB-weld would even stick to it. You're best off getting a new/junk yard radiator or getting a metal tank made.
 
Not a good place for a ghetto fix Kei. Just bite the bullet and get a good aftermarket radiator. Better cooling and you won't ever have to worry about it again.

You can pick them up on eBay for super cheap these days, and they aren't half bad.

I hear you guys. ^^ Trust me. I'm looking at replacements now. I'm going to give it a few hours with a few different ideas I have and see what I can come up with. I'm sure I can come up with something that works.

I measured and I have about an inch at the bottom and nearly 2 inches at the top. I've a couple of pretty great ideas for this one and one for certain that will work but it'll take a little bit of creative fabrication work to do.

Gonna look for a week on this one. If I can get this 'bandaid' to last a week then it's a success. That will cover replacement radiator shipping time. I'll keep this thread updated with the attempted ideas and hopefully, ultimately, the one that works.

Again, I know it's going to need a replacement. Just... trust me. ^^ I really just wanted to see how many people dealt with this and if anyone had come up with an ingenious idea on how to repair it opposed to replace it until a replacement can be had.
 
As others have said, get a new one. I've had two die and to me it just doesn't make sense to go any other way but new.
 
waterweld did hold for about a week for me thoughbut we also covered the hose with waterweld I was thinkiking longterm.....waterweld held but it took me 2 months to scrounge my cash up for the new rad
 
Not to mention that almost any type of fix at that point runs the risk of chunking something into the coolant system and damaging a water pump impeller or worse. :)

Yeah, that's something that's got me stumped.

What I'm considering as a more advanced technique is a cylinder insertion, like a ring. Tap 4 holes into what's remaining on the pipe, top, bottom, and both sides. The ring would be about 4-5 inches long and protrude a bit from the broken remains. When you insert the screws to keep the cylinder in place, make a small raised ridge ring around the outside of the nozzle so that the hose has something to grip. You can then tighten the hose to that ridge, and also to the cylinder. Raised ridge as in another thing solid ring that would be underneath said bolts, and you can curl the edge closest to the front of the car upwards accompanied by leaving the screws/bolts backed out a short ways. Of COURSE, using some sort of rubber sealant around the holes.

The one thing that's stopping me from giving that a shot as a last resort is the fact that the cylinder will rust.

If the center can be reinforced, and a raised ridge can be made out the outside, then it will be perfect and beneficial as a 'bandaid' fix until a new radiator can be installed soon after.

Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Iridium, Rhodium, Lead, Stainless Steel, Nickel, and Mercury are all non-rusting metals... we can use common sense to rule out what's obtainable and usable. Now... let's see what I can do.

Update : I realized that I have a perfect replacement radiator sitting in my driveway.
93 Dodge Stealth RT N/T. Coolant feed hose is in the same placement. Radiator height and length are all within tolerable limits. Mounts are offset 1 1/2 inches opposed to DSM bracket mounts. If nothing else I'll be able to confirm that the radiators are interchangeable or not.

Wish me luck?

DSM Radiator Dimensions
13.62 x 26.69 x 1 in. core

93 Dodge Stealth R/T Non-Turbo Radiator Dimensions
14.75 x 28.25 x 1 in. core size
 
I had the same thing happen to me twice now. I didn't pay for the replacement radiator though, and I just had already fix the old one with quik steel and it had been curing for like 2 weeks before I put it back on. It held up to 2 weeks of driving, and being removed / reinstalled / having hose tightened onto it about 4 times now. But I will be picking grabbing a mishimoto setup before I get a punishment FMIC. Will be installing both of those at the same time.
 
I had the same thing happen to me twice now. I didn't pay for the replacement radiator though, and I just had already fix the old one with quik steel and it had been curing for like 2 weeks before I put it back on. It held up to 2 weeks of driving, and being removed / reinstalled / having hose tightened onto it about 4 times now. But I will be picking grabbing a mishimoto setup before I get a punishment FMIC. Will be installing both of those at the same time.

Good info, but I think I'm going to stay away from JB weld, Quik Steel, and Water Weld for this one. I know they are easily accessible, but I don't feel they'd be up to the task. There needs to be some sort of reinforcement. If nothing else I'm dropping this Stealth Radiator in there.

I know that it can be fixed and I have a radiator that I will MAKE work, but my goal is to come up with some sort of successful bandaid. xD I know Cal and Paul are likely sneering at me and calling me a noob, but I really like to look at all angles and see what I can do. If I can devise a way to make this work with everyday things then just think of how many people can apply this? If someone is on a trip and this happens, they can't be expected to have a spare radiator laying around. That's what I'm trying to make out of this problem I'm having.
 
Nah.. I'll give you a :thumb: for inventiveness and tenacity.

With that said, I'll be right over here <<< when you're ready to come get your "I told you so". LOL

;P You're just jealous because my hair is luxurious and all the ladies like to get tangled up in it.

On a professional note, I appreciate the compliment. :p
 
No...You're just delusional because all the ladies think you are one of them. :D

I give up, I can't win with you and I already know the repercussions for trying. Touche, Sir. :applause:

I'm going to get to work. :rolleyes: I'll post updates later this evening.
 
So, attempt 1 is successful so far.

As I said I have at least 1 1/4 tube left all the way around. I created a mutt epoxy out of industrial super glue and a couple of other things and reemed the inside of the hose that would fit onto what's left of the nozzle as well as a coat on the outside where the hose meets the surface of the nozzle. I then tightened the clamp around it as usual and let it sit for 3-4 hours. I've been driving on it all day, checking under the hood every chance I get. So far it's working great. I'm thinking of putting a snug Hose clamp about 2 inches away from the nozzle so as to keep the hose from swelling near the 'patch work' and keeping stress off of it.

Still doing measurements for the Stealth Radiator install as well. The lower Rad hose is on the complete opposite side of the car. @__@ Luckily that hose is super long.
 
There has gotta be a junkyard close to you, anything is better then trying to rig this up. I know DSMers can be cheap but damn.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't read any of the above posts, have you? Being self righteous without basic information is a way to get flamed.

As a further fact, we do NOT have any 'junk yards' around this area. Period. The closest is over an hour away. Furthermore, why would I go purchase an equally degraded/aged radiator when I have a perfectly good one sitting in my carport?

This is for educational and preliminary purposes for on the occasion that this happens to someone who can't afford an immediate fix or are in a location where 'just dropping in a new radiator' is feasible.

Please read before you post. Thank you.
 
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