Broken Exhaust Stud/Screw Removal [Merged 8-8] bolt fastener threads

[RoasT BeeF]

I have two bolts that are broken off inside the head that bolt the exhaust manifold up. Any ideas for getting them out without messing up the threads? I was going to try drilling them out but I cant even get my drill in there. I am also going to need to take the power steering pump off to get to one of them. Anybody done any of this?

Tech Article:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-broken-exhaust-stud-removal.html#post1489888

 

[gsxboostin]

The bolt furthest to the drives side that holds the fuel rail down, broke off about a thread less than flush in the hole. I tried to EZ out it, that started to work, then broke off in the bolt. I bought the head with the broken bolt, and its not on the car yet. But my question is, could I just maybe let it go, and run the car just fine...or should I try to get it removed from a machine shop or somthing? This broken bolt is the ONLY thing holding me back from finishing my car, and having it on the road for the first time in months...I am very short on cash at this point so any suggestions will help I'm sure. Thanks -Matt

 

[uh-oh]

just go to home depot get a drill and tap...drill out the hole and retap it...it wont take more than about a half an hour

 

[gsxboostin]

It will be that easy to drill out the broken easy out though? I always thought Easy outs were a huggge B**** to get out?

 

[LaserDad91]

just go to home depot get a drill and tap...drill out the hole and retap it...it wont take more than about a half an hour

Except for the broken ez out, which is hardened steel, slow drilling! But, I agree, just keep working with it, and make sure if you drill, you get a good straight start. Use a center punch to make an indent to start your drilling.

 

[mattspyder]

alright i broke half the stuf off inside the block putting on my new turbo.
now, how the hell am i going to get the other half thats still inside out. can i like drill it till it all comes out then thread the new stud in? or what would be the best way to get that broken stud out.....

 

[98eclipseRS]

You can try using a drill bit designed for removing broken studs, the onlly problem I forsee is that the stud isn't exactly that large in diamter so finding a bit that small miht be hard and the chances of the drill bit breaking off would be higher. If that doesn't work the way I suggest is that you just drill the bit out and then have the head retapped or helicoiled for a new stud.

 

[Spookcorleone]

Hrm. No I didn't break them. With that said I was swaping out my 1G mani to a 2G mani I had sitting around that I ported. Anyways, I started to undo the top two bolts, went fine (Spray'd them for afew days, along with all the others.... even the ones I couldn't see - we'll get to that.) so I went for the left stud... and when I started to slide my socket on it - to my lovely suprise ... it broke off!? ... Yeah so I started to get worried... I went to the other side of the exhaust manifold and.. well.. didn't feel any nut/stud at all. I hoped that he didn't put it back in? I got the bottom two off and removed the manifold. The stud on the passanger side which was broken, I was licky to lock onto with vices and get that out... But the other one is my problem guys. I moved the power-steering pump today in hopes of being able to fit a drill gun in there, wasn't able to. I was able to fit my dremial in there tho! With that said I destoryed 3 bits real fast (I got the pre-set speed dremial, the cheap one, two speed.) I didn't even get to drill 1/8th into the stud, and its back in there about 1/8 from the hole .... if I remove the rad, I am not sure if I will still even have the space to fit a drill gun in there... I know what I have to do to get it out really... but, like I said maybe one of you have a helpful hint? Maybe one of you already put up with this problem? ... Got a nice sun-burn today.

Ok.. well thanks guys.

Ignore any typos - tired.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

alot of people go through this problem. EZ-outs are usually the answer, just be careful with broken studs.

or, leave one out.. like I did

 

[Spookcorleone]

Heh - I didn't know if that was considered a option? Doesn't effect spool or so forth? Its right by the timing cover/case - won't that help it get out / melt a timing case over time? (I know people have had problems if they don't even put that simple heat shield back on which goes behind the power-steering pump so thats why I stress over it.) I would love to try and easy-out it, I was planing on it ! Really! untill I couldn't drill 1/8 into the stud for some odd reason? WTF Rider and not the bike I guess?

Also! Guys I can't find a downpipe for a car, I can find them for AWD, not FWD... atleast not for under 200 dollars (shipping included) which is INSANE to pay for a pipe really..

I don't really care if its 2.5" or 3" at this point - but whatever.

Figured maybe someone has one they want to get rid of ? *hint hint* or can point me in a good direction.

Thanks guys.

 

[Mack]

For replacement studs I'd recommend www.ssstuds.com (site sponser too). I love the product I received and the guy, Jeff, was quick to resond to emails and an overall cool guy. On the site are a few tips to remove broken studs.

Check these:
www.rnrracing.com has 2.5 and 3" for under $200,
www.exhaustdepot.com has one that goes from 2.5" before the flex to 3" after for $169.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

it's most likely leaking and i'm losing spool time.. but i'm way too busy to try and fix it

 

[Spookcorleone]

Well I think my valves are leaking anyways and over all the head might be junk (yet to compression test the car.) I've seen afew heads around my area sell for 200 bucks with oversized valves (Nothing else.) but I'd like to have a built head anyways so that seems like the way to go for me. Maybe I'll leave the stud off and see how it goes.

Also a fast newbie question about compression testing.

Take all spark plugs out at once, or one at a time? Brother said one at a time, haynes said all at once...

Hrm.


Thanks again!
Thanks for the links also!

 

[CYCLONE]

Take all the plugs out and WOT also. About your broken stud rent or borrow a
90deg drill, and get some carbide or cobalt drill bits.

 

[Spookcorleone]

Hrm - I've got one. Problem is there is no way to put a drill bit into the 90 degree atleast not on the one I've got. (Only small screw/star bit attements site in it.)

I figured my bits are to wuss to handle it so I will be picking up some carbine in my last attempts. Problem is my dremial spins to fast, and I either have to burn the drill out - or burn the dremial out - heh.

But yeah maybe I missed the 90 degree with a drill attement? that would be nice.

Thanks for all your helpful replys so far guys, sorry to keep a rather dumb topic like this going. Maybe we can make it a sticky after awhile!

 

[Defiant]

Also a fast newbie question about compression testing.

Take all spark plugs out at once, or one at a time? Brother said one at a time, haynes said all at once...

You brother written a lot of maintenance manuals, has he? Send him to get you a refill of blinker fluid.

http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

 

[turboTSi1320]

Well I tryed to remove my broken exhaust stud yesterday and the easyout broke off into the head. So what are my options now? I'm going to have to remove the head and get it machined? This sucks because the car is at my house and I really dint want to have to do another timing belt job..

 

[canucatchdis]

Well easy outs are hardend steel so you will have one terrible time trying to drill it out too. If you want it done right you should take the head off and have a machine shop help you out. If you want to risk it you could just put the exhaust manifold on and not replace that bolt, but that depends on how much of your easy out is still in the head. I wouldn't really recommend that but it is an option.

Just a second thought, if you decide to pull the head you might as well do some other work on it to if you were planning on it in the future. No reason to make more work for yourself later.

 

[Awoler]

remove both cooling fans to give yourself some room to work. use a center punch and hammer and make a good mark in the center of the stud (this is the most important part)
now get a drill and small bit and start to drill(try to keep in mind that the motor dosent sit exactly level in the car so try to match the angle!)use wd-40 or pblaster to kept the drill bit from getting hot and dulling.if you havent already go to the store and get a ez out(do not get autozone brand!!!!)that is a little smaller than the stud go home and start back drilling in progessivly larger sizes (some ez out tell you what drill bit to use) insert ez out (i usally tap it with a hammer to make sure it gets a good bite) and remove broken stud. if you have never done this before you might want to practice on a junk head if you have one lying around......

 

[turboTSi1320]

Is there anyway not to have to take the timeing belt off? I heard I can just ziptie the timing belt to the cams and leave them there?

 

[bjc26]

Well I tryed to remove my broken exhaust stud yesterday and the easyout broke off into the head. So what are my options now? I'm going to have to remove the head and get it machined? This sucks because the car is at my house and I really dint want to have to do another timing belt job..

As you can see he has an easy out already stuck in there... Good luck getting that out. The metal that they are made of is nearly impossible to drill through, especially in that tight little spot. If you are referring to an exhaust manifold stud, I would leave the easy out stuck in there as long as the manifold can sit flush with the head surface. When you have to pull the head off, then take it to a machine shop. One missing stud/nut is not going to make or break your abillity to build pressure.

Good luck.

 

[akdsmer]

Snap-on and others actually make extractor removers. Very expensive but work very well for when it all goes to 5h1t!

 

[turboTSi1320]

Im missing the left top corner bolt. Do you think it would be alright to just put the new gasket on and see if it leaks?

 

[Ronnie01]

Ok, i jus got a 16G, and on the top of the turbo where the oil line is, the one that goes from the turbo to the head, theres a bolt broken off down inside there. It looks like someone tried to get it out an jus made it 10000x's worse an now it wont come out. Is there anything i can do or is the turbo crap now?? Please help. .

 

[LunarEclips]

take the turbo off, drill the bolt without drilling through (you dont want metal shavings in the turbo. Go to sears and buy a self extract bolt bit and tap it with a hammer, and turn the bit counterclock wise to unscrew it out. I would HIGHLY reccomend putting some wd40 or some type of lubricant on it first to loosen the bolt up from anything holding it in. Also when turning....turn SLOW....its a slow process and i've broken those bits before.

Note: you're supposed to losen with the bit by hand...directions should be given in the kit. Take your time....it CAN get worse if you don take your time with this.

 

[keymaster]

You're going to need a HELL of a strong bit to drill those bolts out. We dulled 2 carbide/titanium bits trying to get mine out, and it didn't even scratch the bolt. I'm going to take the turbine housing to my automotive teacher one of these days and he's got a diamond cutter that should do the job. The stock bolts are either grade 10 or grade 11. Mine happened to be grade 11, which are some of the hardest bolts available.