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breaking ball joint off spindle

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96Formula6spd

10+ Year Contributor
245
22
Nov 17, 2009
Greenville, South Carolina
Hey guys I have been beating the living out of my ball joint to get it free from the spindle. I have been using a pickle fork with different attachments and a 4 pound sledge. I have been at this for 2 hours now and are wondering if there are any tricks to get the spindle free. I am changing the trans and now the lower control arms because of the ball joint. They are rusty and would rather have a new one than fix rust. Any tips would be nice since I am worn out from slinging a sledge for 2 hours.
 
I think the 1g is similar to my Colt, where the balljoint is on the end of the control arm?

Anyways I jacked the car up, put it on jackstands, supported the control arm with a jack, beat the balljoint out from the top with a deadblow hammer. If that doesn't work go rent the balljoint press from your local parts store.
 
well for the moment i want to keep the ball joint in the lower control arm. Im looking to get the ball joint to come out of the spindle so I can remove the axle so the trans will come out.
 
just to be sure, you removed the nut from the bolt that goes from the ball joint through the spindle right? if you've done that then all you can really do is wedge a pickle fork between the ball joint and the spindle and beat the hell out of it. I used a big sledge hammer to do mine cause they were in there pretty good.
 
jack up the car so there is pressure trying to pull the ball jooint apart.

ie, put a jack under the disc and put pressure. not alot, just some pressure.

now where the ball joint goes through {its taper} smack the living shit out of it with a hammer. bigger the better. 3lb ball peen works great here. Once the taper is loosened up the ball joint will slide free.

Pickle forks are rarely your friend.
 
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One of these can also work wonders. It's a ball joint separator. You can apply pressure with it and then if that still doesn't get it apart, smack it with a hammer on the stud.
 

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I am not trying to get the ball joint out. I am trying to get the spindle loose to get the axle out.

To remove the axle, it is not necessary to remove the ball joint from the spindle. Perhaps you should change the thread title if you still can.

As DSM1G90 stated, you need to remove the axle nut (large castle nut) on the wheel hub. It is a 32mm and will likely need some convincing to break lose. Normally I allow the car to rest its tires on the ground, completely under its own weight. I will have an extra person hold the brake and steering wheel while I give the axle bolt hell with a 1/2" breaker bar and 3ft. cheater bar. Once you break that nut loose, you need to undo the control arm from the sub-frame in the front and back. The front has a large bolt with a 17mm head running through it and the rear is by the large rubber bushing covered by a small metal bracket with two bolts and two nuts holding it in place. You will also need to undo the suspension stabilizer link on the front of the control arm from the stabilizer bar.

After loosening and removing that large bolt and the nut and the bracket for the control arm bushing, swing the control arm down and away from the car and the spring/shock/knuckle assembly should swing with it. With the axle nut large castle nut removed, the spring/shock/knuckle assembly can be maneuvered to slide the axle out of the knuckle. Pop the axle from the gearbox and you are done.
 
Yeah, you shouldn't have to undo the spindle to get the axle out. You really don't have to undo the control arm either, I found it easier to unbolt the strut from the spindle.

If the splined shaft on the axle has pulled out most of the way from the spindle, then you're almost there, just wiggle everything around to get it out. If this doesn't sound familiar, then you may need to unbolt the hub bolt (32mm). I found having a friend hold the brakes was the best way to deal with this.
 
well i have the nut off. I am thinking of taking the spindle off the shock tower. I also have some buddies coming over today to give it a try. Hopefully we can get this off so I can get that trans out.
 
My 1G hasn't ever given me as much guff as this Accord I did last year. I almost broke the ball-joint press I rented. What I needed was: Screw-type puller/press cranked-on untill the BJ-stud was nearly crushed, MIG welder blazing away on the knuckle to heat it around the stud, and a 3lb hand-sledge wailing on the knuckle untill my ears were ringing and my arms were jello. Lately, with my 1Gs, I just grease the hell out of the pickle-fork, with a couple of new BJ boots always handy, and it pops right out with a little bit of love-tapping.
 
Pickle forks are only good if you want to throw away your ball joint, and you don't know the easy way.

I just take a ball peen hammer, and smack the knuckle. Hard! It usually takes no more than two or three hits.
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Turn the wheel so you have a clear shot, do a couple line up swings like you're preparing to attempt a 300 yard drive, then hit that SOB like it's all or nothing.

Don't forget to pull down on the control arm between hits to see if it's loose.
 

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Thats the best way to do it without damaging anything but just in case you are a bad shot with a hammer put a peice of hose over the threads of the stud or the nut back on loosly.
 
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One of these can also work wonders. It's a ball joint separator. You can apply pressure with it and then if that still doesn't get it apart, smack it with a hammer on the stud.

Problem is the axle is in the way

Pickle forks are only good if you want to throw away your ball joint, and you don't know the easy way.

I just take a ball peen hammer, and smack the knuckle. Hard! It usually takes no more than two or three hits.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Turn the wheel so you have a clear shot, do a couple line up swings like you're preparing to attempt a 300 yard drive, then hit that SOB like it's all or nothing.

Don't forget to pull down on the control arm between hits to see if it's loose.

Ill give this a try after dinner
 

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