Brakes fading

[Jay95GST]

So I just put in a Greddy Intercooler Piping on my 1995 Eclipse GST and took it out afterwards to make sure everything was running right. On the way back home I went to slow down and the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and barely slowed the car down. (Thank GOD I was close to my house ) So as I was pulling in the Brake pedal kept on going from hard to all the way to the floor. I have not messed with the brakes at all and found this weird.

When I got back I check the Brake Fluid and it was full and then checked for leaks and everything seemed fine. I am baffled as to what is causing this.

PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[turboglenn]

IF one of the brakes is dragging and causing the fluid in that caliper and line to boil it will be like there's no fluid in it at all. I'm not sure on a system with the 2 output master cyliders like a car has (the front and rear are on seperate "channels" so to speak)

But when i boil the brakes on a motorcycle they go all the way to the bottom and never even slow the bike down (it's like there's a hole in the line) then after they cool down they work again but you should change the fluid after a boil over

But back on cars, if the 2 (front and rear) channels are seperate enough that losing pressure to one side or the other will still let the other side function than this may be what's going on since you said you still had a little brakes, they were just going to the floor but still slowed down some. Which would also lead me to believe you're boiling the fronts and are only left with the rears to do their 30% of the job. but still, since i don't know personally how a 2 channel brake system performs during a boil over i can't say for certain thats' your issue but i'd be willing to say you probably have a caliper sticking (not letting the pad/piston retract enough to reduce the friction and heat buildup after you're done braking and want to accelerate again.

Take the calipers off one at a time and have some one press the brakes for you, watch the piston in the cailpers (pads removed) and see if they are unually hard to press back in with a c-clamp when no pressure is on the brakes or if one acts completely different than the others. You may also figure out what wheel its' coming from by looking at the brakes and seeing if one of your rotors looks cooked (blue'ish coloring or accessive glazing)

i wouldn't drive the car untill you figure it out either way though, this could be deadly

 

[Jay95GST]

IF one of the brakes is dragging and causing the fluid in that caliper and line to boil it will be like there's no fluid in it at all. I'm not sure on a system with the 2 output master cyliders like a car has (the front and rear are on seperate "channels" so to speak)

But when i boil the brakes on a motorcycle they go all the way to the bottom and never even slow the bike down (it's like there's a hole in the line) then after they cool down they work again but you should change the fluid after a boil over

But back on cars, if the 2 (front and rear) channels are seperate enough that losing pressure to one side or the other will still let the other side function than this may be what's going on since you said you still had a little brakes, they were just going to the floor but still slowed down some. Which would also lead me to believe you're boiling the fronts and are only left with the rears to do their 30% of the job. but still, since i don't know personally how a 2 channel brake system performs during a boil over i can't say for certain thats' your issue but i'd be willing to say you probably have a caliper sticking (not letting the pad/piston retract enough to reduce the friction and heat buildup after you're done braking and want to accelerate again.

Take the calipers off one at a time and have some one press the brakes for you, watch the piston in the cailpers (pads removed) and see if they are unually hard to press back in with a c-clamp when no pressure is on the brakes or if one acts completely different than the others. You may also figure out what wheel its' coming from by looking at the brakes and seeing if one of your rotors looks cooked (blue'ish coloring or accessive glazing)

i wouldn't drive the car untill you figure it out either way though, this could be deadly

Well if this turns out to be the issue do I need new calipers? What would I need to do to fix this?

 

[turboglenn]

NO, if you're have a decent mechanical aptitude than you can get rebuild kits for the calipers. There's a thread in the tech section on rebuilding brake calipers, here's a link

This is on a single piston caliper like the gs-t has so it should work perfect for you, the gs-x just has a bigger caliper with 2 smaller pistons but the method is the same

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../347494-how-rebuild-front-brake-calipers.html