The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Clutch Pedal fading in and out

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rex2342

15+ Year Contributor
788
12
Aug 30, 2004
Mckeesport, Pennsylvania
I'm having an issue with my clutch. This morning when I dropped my girl off at work I swear I felt a "pop" and then my clutch pedal felt really weird. It was really spongy and was engaging lower than normal. After a minute or two it was back to normal but the whole way home it was going back and forth. It got to the point where I was having trouble getting it in and out of gear but then would be fine again. I got home and checked the master real quick for leaks and the slave too. The fluid isn't low and the master, slave, fork, ball, and TOB are only about 1.5-2 years old. I haven't got time to really check it out today but tomorrow when I take it to work I'll get it up and the rack and check it out closer. It feels to me like air but with no signs of leaks I'm kind of worried. My girls VW is broke down and I can't figure out whats wrong with it so I've been using my poor DD Talon to take her to work and I'm doing like 3 times the driving I usually do and apparently it's taking it's toll on my car. Without my Talon we have no way to get to work so I have to fix her asap. Any ideas on where to start?
 
I would start by closely inspecting the slave cylinder for leaks and smooth operation. Also make sure the reservoir isn't over filled. I've actually seen cars suck air in at the seal between the reservoir and the master because there wasn't enough air space left in the reservoir to allow the pressure differential while pushing the pedal.

Hope this helps, that's all I got. Good luck.

Ps. Don't tell your girl that driving her to work is killing your car. You'll just end up in a fight.
 
Did you look on the inside of the firewall above the clutch pedal. Mabey your master is leaking on the inside.

That was the first place I checked. I'm not seeing a leak anywhere and the master isn't low. It's been fine for nearly two years until today.
 
possibly broken pressure plate. the part of the spring that the release bearing comes into contact with. the pop sound makes me think it could be that, what clutch are you running?
 
It's an ACT 2600 that's about 4 years old. I'm going to take it to the shop and check it out today. Hopefully it's not the pressure plate because I need this car right now.
 
Just an update. This morning when I got in it I had no clutch pedal at all. I couldn't get it into gear either. I pumped the clutch for a minute or so and it came back. It was fine all the way to work which is about a half hour of stop and go traffic for me. Once I got to work I pulled it into the shop and looked it over real good and couldn't find any signs of a leak. I searched all up under the dash, the firewall, the slave, all the lines, and couldn't find anything. I also removed the rubber boot from the fork and used a little fiber optic camera my buddy had to inspect the pressure plate and fork. They all look fine too but it's hard to really tell. I let it sit outside for a few hours and came back and it was still fine. Then I used a pedal rod and let it sit for a few hours with the clutch pedal pushed in and it was still fine. It was also fine all the way back home. I guess I'm gonna have to wait and see how it is in the morning since I can't get it to not work again. Hopefully whatever it is isn't too serious like a bent shift fork or another TOB. I know TOB's are cheap but that would mean tearing out the trans again and possibly not having a car for a day. If anybody has anymore ideas please post them up. Until then I guess I'll have to just wait until whatever it is comes back or fails completely.
 
im going with master cylinder.

go under the dash and pull the little boot back.
If there is ANY moisture at all its failing on you.

Mine did this 2 years ago.

60.00 part and 30min to change.
 
Def. master clutch cylinder. had the same problem with my toyota. pretty easy fix (although i drove it for 3 weeks pumping and pumping the clutch all around the city) but yeah just go ahead and replace that and you should be fine. by the way mine didn't leak at all, the shaft just got all gunked up and would stick. good luck.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top