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BOV recirculation hose removal effects

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xlMcMlx DsM

15+ Year Contributor
276
2
Nov 7, 2005
Madison, Wisconsin
im lookin at buying a 1990 Talon FWD turbo and the guy cut the recircualtion hose b/c he liked the sound of the turbo. But it kinda bogs, or seems to be not getting enough fuel at WOT. is that because of the recirculation hose being removed? he just put a new fuel pump in it, so i dont think thats the problem.
 
oh, and also, when went to drive it, i gave it gas, but it would do nothing, i even put it to the floor, and it just seemes like it was about to rev, then it would kin of studder, then want to rev again, so on and so forth. the car would rock back and forth pretty good, too. since there is no BCS:| Im ordering a Hallman ES manual boost controller along with a hard UICP, and a boost leak tester. So hopefully that(and you guys) will help me figure this out.
 
That plug gap is way too big. Gap them to .028" and try again. Let us know how the car runs after the regapping.
 
ok, just got done ohm testing the TPS. read 1.5K, dont know if thats good or not. that was terminals 2 and 3, like the Haynes said. one of the vacuum hoses on the EGR was disconnected, so i used a smaller hose and reconnected it. About to gap the plugs back, and then take a look at the BISS screw.
 
Pretty positive now that i have a bad ISC. i had my brother turn the ignition from ACC to ON, back and forth. the ISC never even moved at all. I read up that it's supposed to move smoothly in and out. Im gonna go to a local salvage yard this week and pick up a new one. I'm gonna finish gapping the plugs, and then start it up tomorrow( a 3" turbo back isnt the quietest thing at 11PM) and ill get back to guys. thanks for your help so far
 
well, i regapped the plugs, removed the cruise control, made sure that all the lines were connected correctly, and it started great, idled perfect, but at operating temp, it was surging. But definately not as bad. it was slower this time. only once a few seconds. pretty positive my ISC is bad, but ill read up on it more.
 
today i tried to install my boost guage. it ended up being a couple hour job....and it still didnt work! the vacuum hoses are all messed up, but i made sure the FPS ones were hooked up correctly. Top one to FPR, and bottom to intake mani. I tapped the intake, and it doesnt read anything. doesnt move at all. i put RTV on all the connection to see if that would help, did nothing. Also, when i i let it warm up to operating temp, while it was surging, i disconnected the ISC, and it kept surging. acording the Terry's Talon idle surge article, that means the ISC isnt the problem of the idle surge. I need some help please.
 
Do you have a vacuum line going to the wastegate actuator on the turbo? Where are you sourcing the vacuum line from for the boost gauge? Is the line kinked anywhere? I would get rid of the FPS, just run a line directly from the intake manifold to the FPR.

It sounds like you haven't tested the ISC with a multimeter, I would do that next just to be 100% sure it isn't the source of your idle surge. I think you probably have a combination of issues. After you get the boost leak test done, let us know what's you find.


http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html ISC test
 
i can see where the BCS was. the wires are cut. the line from the wastegate and J-pipe are teed together, and then connected to the intake pipe. I think thats whats causing my fuel cut at WOT b/c it will over boost. And is that ok to remove the FPS? just run the line from the FPR straight a tap in the manifold right behind it? by the way, i used the new nylon tubing that came with the guage. I think im gonna switch it to rubber hosing and get a fittign for the guage to see if that helps. thanks for the response.
 
i can see where the BCS was. the wires are cut. the line from the wastegate and J-pipe are teed together, and then connected to the intake pipe. I think thats whats causing my fuel cut at WOT b/c it will over boost. And is that ok to remove the FPS? just run the line from the FPR straight a tap in the manifold right behind it? by the way, i used the new nylon tubing that came with the guage. I think im gonna switch it to rubber hosing and get a fittign for the guage to see if that helps. thanks for the response.

It sounds like you found the problem. Run a vacuum line directly from the j-pipe to the WGA. This will limit your boost to about 12 psi but once you install your MBC you will be able to turn it up in a controlled manner. If I am understanding you correctly the way it is setup is bleeding off some of the pressure signal away from the WGA so that it is not opening up. It is actually worse than a bleeder type MBC because under boost there will be active vacuum pulling air pressure away from the WGA.

In the picture of the motor I see the vacuum line from the j-pipe but I can't tell where it is connecting to the intake pipe. For now just go ahead and cap off the fitting on the intake that you are no longer using.

As far as the boost guage I don't really understand where you tapped into the IM at. A picture might be helpful. Try starting the car then pulling the vacuum hose (nylon tubing) where you connected it to your boost/vacuum source. Use your thumb to confirm that there is vacuum there. If there is then reconnect the tube and pull the other end (guage end) to make sure there is vacuum (no blockage of tube).

Have you done a boost leak test yet. If not, make a tester as shown in the tech section and do one. The tester will pay for itself many times over. Doing boost leak tests should be a part of routine maintenance.

Keep us updated.
 
As far as the boost guage I don't really understand where you tapped into the IM at. A picture might be helpful. Try starting the car then pulling the vacuum hose (nylon tubing) where you connected it to your boost/vacuum source. Use your thumb to confirm that there is vacuum there. If there is then reconnect the tube and pull the other end (guage end) to make sure there is vacuum (no blockage of tube).


theres a nipple on the IM right behind where the coil pack is. Thats where i tapped. But i think it's because the fitting on the back of my guage wouldnt hook up correctly. Im going to NAPA tomorrow to pick up some things to put my 1.8L back together, and im gonna pick that fitting up there, and run a rubber hose instead of nylon tubing. the vacuum lines on this car are all messed up. Im gonna follow the taboo diagram and remove the purge solenoid FPS, and block the TB nipples, then run all new lines, just to make sure.

The lines from the WG and the j-pipe teed together, and then connected to a nipple on the intake pipe, next to the MAS, where the BCS would connect. hope that cleared things up a bit. Im also gonna pick up the materials to build a boost leak tester. Im gonna order an EVO III 02 housing, and a Dejon UICP, and a Hallman ES boost controller. The MBC is first though, so i can limit my boost better.
 
i tried moving the wastegate actucator by hand. Barely moved it 1/2 cm. Is it supposed to be like that? im eventually gonna pull off the stock 14b and port the wg opening, and turbo inlet from the ex mani. any other suggestions are appreciated.
 
removed all the vacuum hoses, FPS, EGR solenoid, blocked off the EGR, re-ran a rubber hose for my boost guage and got the fittings for it. It works, sits at about -19psi at cold idle. One question. I revved it once or twice, and it never boosted past 0..? whats with that? and i gave it a constant throttle(barely any at all, maybe an inch down) and it went, vroooom, then to idle, then vroooooom. Kinda like surging, but it seemed like it wouldnt rev unless i give it a quick rev. And i can fix the idle surge by removing the MAS. any ideas on this?
 
well, theres not very many vacuum lines in the engine bay now since i removed them. But im sure some gaskets could be leaky, but i dont know. Im letting the RTV dry on my boost leak tester, and ill do that tomorrow.
 
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