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Bore .020 or .040?

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Sullbren17

Proven Member
173
0
Nov 29, 2012
Chadron, Nebraska
I have aftermarket pistons that are JE pistons and I have eagle H beam rods, but I have a knocking, and I did this whole crappy job because I spun the rod bearing, well I want to take my motor out (420a) and put it on a stand and build the whole block but I don't know where to start. But I have a scratch up my cylinder on chamber one where the rod bearing spun. But I need to have,y block checked out, my crank, rods even tho the end cap seemed alittle discolored but my rods, and my pistons, and I'm gonna rebuild the head because I'm burning oil but my question is should I fix the scratches in y cylinder and stay with standard bore je pistons or would it be better to bore them out and get new pistons?
 
Ok let me see if I understand what you are trying to say.

You have a block that has scratches in one cylinder, and you want to know if it is ok to bore the scratches out of that one cylinder and leave the other 3 std bore?

Yes you can do that, but the one oversized piston is going to put the engine out of balance.

Best thing to do is bore all four cylinders and hang new pistons.

Also you say the rod caps are discolored, that is odd the caps are discolored but not the rods.
If this is the case, there is a good chance the rods are junk and need replaced.
 
I'm short on money tho and rods and pistons are like 750 the cheapest for 40 over and I did mean all four cylinders but is there away to buff the scratch and run my standard size pistons with a new rod? Or replace all of my rods and bore them all like do I HAVE to bore my cylinders? I just don't know how to ask the question LOL

And also it's only one end cap is discolored, and the rod isn't when I take my motor out this weekend I will show u a pick but I'm not a machinist but I didn't do anything to my crank or rods and my rod bearing hasn't spun buy there's a knocking and someone told me it may be my wristpin but idk the main thig is I don't have the money for this but I'm itching to do something with this motor
 
Could be piston slap, which is common with je pistons. Mine are noisy when cold, but go away when it's warmed up
 
is there away to buff the scratch and run my standard size pistons with a new rod? Or replace all of my rods and bore them all like do I HAVE to bore my cylinders? I just don't know how to ask the question LOL

No you can not buff the walls to get that scratch out. Maybe honing it would take out the scratch depending on how deep but your best bet it to bore it out and do it the right way. I know its not cheap but it will be the same price to do it over again.
 
Asking about a scratch on the internet is hard to determine what fix for it. As suggested get it to a machine shop to at least look at the scratch to see if the blocks salvageable. Then they can better anwser what size piston youll need to fill the new bore.

If its one rod thats discolored you can pick up a single and have the set rebalanced. Should save you a few bucks there as long as the other rods check out fine. Get some pics of all the damage and post it up here so we can see what you have going on.
 
I will post pics... I've been having a rough time with this car like I feel like a complete moron. But I will post pics when I get my engine stand in and il take my oil pan off and rods but I was told to do a compression test first and idk how to do it
 
Just get a new/used block. Journal for the block you have now will likely need line honed and an oversized bearing. Save for a new crank if you plan on building it; no one wants surprises after spending hours in labor and parts for a rebuilt/used crank to be the weak link.
 
Just get a new/used block. Journal for the block you have now will likely need line honed and an oversized bearing. Save for a new crank if you plan on building it; no one wants surprises after spending hours in labor and parts for a rebuilt/used crank to be the weak link.


From what the op said he spun a rod bearing, not a main bearing.
Doubtful that a spun rod would take out the mains.

Also when a block is line honed, the caps are cut, than the main bores machined back to factory bore specs. This way the OD of the bearing stays the same. I doubt you could find oversized OD bearings, unless you have them custom made.


Now OP, Is you spun a rod bearing, doing a compression test, leak down test is a moot point.
The engine needs to come out and apart to be cleaned and rebuilt.
 
Yes my other question is how can I keep my bolts organized and keep everything clean with this build? I got my engine stand today its supposed to be warm tomorrow so I'm gonna stick my engine on the stand..
 
Yes my other question is how can I keep my bolts organized and keep everything clean with this build? I got my engine stand today its supposed to be warm tomorrow so I'm gonna stick my engine on the stand..

Many zip-lock baggies, and a sharpie :thumb:
 
Is there a way to get a set with all the bolts I need like all brand new bolts ### the guy before me put a lot ofnokts in the wrong p like bell housing bolts cross member engine mounts like the whole 9 yards and what do I do to clean my valves and stuff with?
 
go 2.3

i knew a guy with a 2.3 GSX running a 20g making nice nice power

WTF.. Lol. You do realize he doesn't even want to replace the parts he has. He just wants to hone the cylinder, what makes you think he'd do a stroker?

To the OP, as everyone said, do it once and do it right. Get it to a shop and they will determine the bore you need. No need to risk having to take it apart allll over again is it?
 
I want to take it apart to learn more and I've been proven my mechanics are morons. But I want to try to take everything out and try a fresh start but I think I figured out most of my bolts but I have a lot leftover in a bucket he gave ne and I think most of it is power steering and ax stuff but I don't want a tractor mechanic touching my car ### my friend had his truck at the shop and it was there for a whole year because the mechanic I guess did what this guy did and threw all the bolts in the bucket and called it good. I took the bolts out and stuck them in card board with labels bout I found alit that looked funky and looked displaced but I'm really lost with most of the bolts and I really just want to start off dress like take out my transmission and my engine and clean up everything. And make it nice and tear out my seats and stuff and figure out my paint situation but I have another car not just the eclipse I have a comaro but I'm just doing this for learning and hopefully go to school for this.
 
get a large pack of zip lock bags with the white label coating on the front. get a sharpie as well.

i do no know of a bolt kit for the 420a. if you search online and/or have a friend with access to alldata or mitchells, they can print off a good portion of blow-apart diagrams with bolt sizes and tq specs.

just be thorough with your disassembly. when you take bolts out, put them in a bag and write where they came from. if you dont know the part name or location name, take a quick pic of the area and label/tag it in your fone or computer as a number, and write the same number on the bag of bolts.

its just being thorough and taking your time.

and no, you cannot fix the scratches. you need to take your block, crank and head to a shop to be checked. they will tell you what size pistons you need to purchase.

if your rod cap was discolored, i would invest in new rods. the 420a uses fracture split powder forged rods, and when heated to that extreme would stand a good chance at breaking. new rods and pistons, either stock or aftermarket style would be a solid idea.

sell your stock bore forged pistons to help cover some of the cost, or try to find another usable core motor for parts.

gl:thumb:
 
Sharpies and Zip-Locks are definitely the way to go. I've been an engine builder for 12 years and that is still the way I do it. As far as factory rods go in a 420a motor, (I think the designer was on drugs, hence the name...) According to Chrysler you cant resize them. As the previous poster said, they are fracture break rods. They can't be resized on the big end. I have seen several instances where the cap ONLY was discolored. My advise is to get aftermarket rods, and if you want to stay with your pistons, find a low mileage block in the J/Y, have the machine shop kiss hone it and measure to see if you can get away without too much skirt slap. As to your original title, "Bore .020 or .040" Less is always more!

EDIT: I went back and saw that you have Eagle rods... I have never seen a "REAL" rod cook one end. I would have the machine shop wet mag the crank and look for cracks and clogs in the oil passages in the crank. You seem to have an oil supply problem. Could be a 420a problem. Maybe opening up the oil holes in the crank is the solution.
 
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Hmmmm expensive -_- I want a good set of cheaper after market pistons that will stand the boost for my Turbo and high octane gasoline. What's the cheapest set u can get aftermarket?
 
Good lord.. There is nothing cheap about what you are trying do. You want it straight forward, do a stock rebuild and buy a damn turbo car. You want to turbo your car, and go the cheap route, GOOD EFFING LUCK. No one here is going to help someone that is heading in the direction of disaster.

So you have a choice of following what people have tested, used, and proven, or cheap out and be the next future part out.
 
Hmmmm expensive -_- I want a good set of cheaper after market pistons that will stand the boost for my Turbo and high octane gasoline. What's the cheapest set u can get aftermarket?

Dude are you that thick? You want something that will handle everything you throw at it but pay nothing for it... If you dont have the money to pay then you dont have the money to play.

Cheap and awesome does not exist.
 
What set do u prefer for piston and rods? I don't mean cheap I understand cheap and awesome doesn't exsist but what I mean there's like je. Pistons or weiseco pistons whitch ones do u prefer I just got a new job so I can work on this slowly.
 
What set do u prefer for piston and rods? I don't mean cheap I understand cheap and awesome doesn't exsist but what I mean there's like je. Pistons or weiseco pistons whitch ones do u prefer I just got a new job so I can work on this slowly.

To each their own but I've always had outstanding luck with wiseco's. but honestly you'd be good with my of the big named companies.
 
Will see about weiseco I've seen really good reviews on them I started to get my engine ready to be pulled today probably gonna pullit tomorrow but is there short stroke rods and short throw cranks on 420as
 
With what you have said head thread, It sounds like in both this thread, and your other thread about the head that you are willing to learn, but do not have the knowledge base to do this fully.

You will need to rely on the machine shop to help get you pointed in the right direction.

Once you have the engine out, and you start the tear down, make sure you have your ziplock bags, sharpie and a digi camera. Remove a few bolts to remove a single part. take a pic with the bolts loose in the part, then lay the bolts out and take a pic.
 
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