Boosting Problem.....

[Xplicit93AWD]

Ok I have DSMLink so that will help understand this post ... When I am at a dead stop and I step on it from nuetral I hit my studderbox at 4250rpm but I dont get any boost on first gear even if I drive the car it takes a while for me to put in full boost on 1st gear not like everyother gear when im crusing even at low speeds if im in 2nd or any other gear I will hear the turbo spool and blow off and I get at least 5lbs of boost. I checked for boost leaks and that checked out ok so do you guys know of anything else that can cuase this booting problem.

 

[GVR4592]

How did you check for boost leaks?

 

[No_Skillz]

How did you check for boost leaks?

BLT

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

How did you check for boost leaks?

Ok well I dont know if this is a trick question but .. I took my intake pipe off and put the boost leak tester on the turbo and with a air compressor set to 20psi I ran that much air threw my system and I sprayed soapy water everywhere and just looked for bubbles or a pissing sound coming from somewhere and it all checked out ok no bubbles and no sound. So I hope that answer's your question to doing a boost leak test.

 

[No_Skillz]

It's not a trick question. How long did your system hold pressure?

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

I dont know the exact min. but I know I checked evrything all around deep inspect and when I looked at the gauge it was still @ 20psi

 

[No_Skillz]

What kind of shape is your turbo in?

 

[oldman]

I dont know the exact min. but I know I checked evrything all around deep inspect and when I looked at the gauge it was still @ 20psi

of course the gauge on the compressor regulator is still 20 psi because you set it to 20psi, we are talking about what was maximum reading on your BOOST GAUGE during the test? How long did it take for the BOOST GAUGE to drop to zero after you remove the compressor?

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

Well then in that case I will have to do another boost leak test then b/c I cant remember. Just because im curious what does it matter how long it stayed for ? If it spikes and hold for a little bit wouldnt it be the same sorry if im sounding like a newb but it just didnt make sense to me maybe you guys can help me understand

 

[oldman]

The more important part is what was registered on the boost gauge, another words, the regulator gauge does not equal to boost gauge. You can have 20psi on the regulator gauge setting while registering 0 on the boost gauge at the same time. Do we have a misunderstanding here? Are you reading 20psi on the boost gauge or the air compressor gauge?

 

[No_Skillz]

You weren't talking about your boost guage the first time around? Sorry gotta chuckle at that one.

 

[MrBoxx]

To put what oldman said in another way, the difference between the psi on the regulator and the psi on your boost gauge (which should be tapped on the manifold, of course) is how much you're leaking. The amount of time that it takes for the boost gauge needle to drop is how big the leak is or how fast it leaks.

Also, you can be leaking at places other than just intercooler pipe junctions. Your throttle body shaft seals and BISS are two likely spots for leaks, as well as a few others.

 

[oldman]

You weren't talking about your boost guage the first time around? Sorry gotta chuckle at that one.

Not sure yet but that's the impression I got after reading this part.

I took my intake pipe off and put the boost leak tester on the turbo and with a air compressor set to 20psi I ran that much air threw my system and I sprayed soapy water everywhere and just looked for bubbles or a pissing sound coming from somewhere and it all checked out ok no bubbles and no sound.

You shouldn't be laughing at him, at least he didn't vent the catch can while re-circulating back to the intake pipe.

 

[oldman]

Also, you can be leaking at places other than just intercooler pipe junctions. Your throttle body shaft seals and BISS are two likely spots for leaks, as well as a few others.

Don't forget the crankcase and exhaust.

 

[vr4play]

How long has this been happening? Did it progressively get worse or happen all of a sudden? Did you make any changes before it happened?

It doesn't sound like a boost leak. It would have to be a very big leak to only get you to 5psi... a leak this big would be easy to find during the leak test. Sounds like a bad turbo.

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

Ok well I was refering t the actual boost gauge reading 20psi I just checked it make sure it was @ 20 and kept looking for leaks. I also checked the throttle body and biss screw it is not leaking. NOw I do have a possible leak after the turbo on thr o2 housing b/c im missing 1 screw and 1 nut on the housing so it could be leaking threw there and also when I sprayed the turbo around the middle it was letting go of small bubbles so could my turbo be messed up and thats why it wont boost corectly or should I keep looking around for problems and bugs that you guys can point out to me.

 

[MrBoxx]

also when I sprayed the turbo around the middle it was letting go of small bubbles so could my turbo be messed up

Is the leak coming from where the compressor housing goes over the center section, where the snap ring holds it on?

Check the turbo for shaft play, in case it is the turbo going bad.

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

Yes its coming from tight around there but the turbo is stiff and it has no shaft play at all

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Its your leaky compressor housing for sure. Get that fixed and update us on the problem or fix.

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

Ok thanks guys how do I get that "fixed" I know I more than likely need a turbo rebuilt kit but where can I get one...???

 

[MrBoxx]

A rebuild kit may not be necessary. I was reading up on leaking compressor housings in a few other threads and it seems that it's a common occurrence for 14b's. If you take the turbo off the car, you can use some snap-ring (also called circlip by some people) pliers to remove the snap ring that holds the compressor housing off. There should be an O-ring underneath it, possibly on the center section itself. I've opened up my T25 and don't remember an O-ring, but haven't opened my 14b up, so I'm going by what another user said and how he fixed the leak in his turbo.

i had the same problem with my 14b before i rebuilt it. i have not been able to drive the car yet due to a blown head gasket but when i first did a leak test, the 14b was doing the exact same thing as yours. when i rebuilt the turbo, the seal on the cold side of the turbo was old and had cracked which caused the leak. if you want to replace this part of the turbo, you do not have to take the whole turbo apart. you simply take the turbo off the car, remove the circlip holding the cold side in place and pop off the cold side of the turbo. once this is done the gasket can be replaced and everything put back without rebalancing because you did not remove the wheels or anything else that has to do with the balance of the turbo.

And another user says this:

Yep,there is a rubber o-ring that goes in a groove in the CHRA. Everyone I have seen is squashed flat and hard as a rock. I am not sure if it is availible from Mitsubishi as a replacement part,but I used a regular 0-ring.

It may be time for this O-ring to be replaced in your case. Assuming that you feel comfortable removing the turbo, taking the compressor housing off, replacing the O-ring, and finally reinstalling the turbo, this should be a fairly easy and cheap fix.

 

[oldman]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228459

 

[exile]

...I sprayed soapy water everywhere and just looked for bubbles or a pissing sound coming from somewhere and it all checked out ok no bubbles and no sound. So I hope that answer's your question to doing a boost leak test...

Oh well there's your problem right there buddy! You're suppose to listen for hissing sounds, not pissing sounds!

</end smartasscomment>

 

[Ultimatedsm]

LMFAO!!! Sorry that was pretty funny.

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

A rebuild kit may not be necessary. I was reading up on leaking compressor housings in a few other threads and it seems that it's a common occurrence for 14b's. If you take the turbo off the car, you can use some snap-ring (also called circlip by some people) pliers to remove the snap ring that holds the compressor housing off. There should be an O-ring underneath it, possibly on the center section itself. I've opened up my T25 and don't remember an O-ring, but haven't opened my 14b up, so I'm going by what another user said and how he fixed the leak in his turbo.



And another user says this:



It may be time for this O-ring to be replaced in your case. Assuming that you feel comfortable removing the turbo, taking the compressor housing off, replacing the O-ring, and finally reinstalling the turbo, this should be a fairly easy and cheap fix.

Well ok thanks alot I will be looking into fixing that o-ring where can I find that o-ring so when I take out the center section I could replace it with the correct o-ring