The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

boosting on MAFT

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DiamondStar90

10+ Year Contributor
209
5
Oct 9, 2010
Waco, Texas
hey guys i just installed the 1.3 version of MAFT with a 3" GM MAF.
my question is i just tested the car out and when i barely get on it the stock gauge spikes up and not sure why...when you install the translator are you suppose to have the stock maf hooked up?
i have the white wire hooked up properly to the 4th pin on the transitor
is there something i did wrong??
 
When you hook up the translator it should be plugged into the stock maf plug. As for the spike are you talking about the stock boost gauge? Those are known to be unreliable and you should really look into getting an aftermarket gauge. Make sure to check for boost leaks as well.
 
When you hook up the translator it should be plugged into the stock maf plug. As for the spike are you talking about the stock boost gauge? Those are known to be unreliable and you should really look into getting an aftermarket gauge. Make sure to check for boost leaks as well.

yeah i plugged it in and did the white wire right and well the car will go but wont have any power and i have a greddy boost gauge and it shows that when i barely get on it ..its 4-5psi and well the stock gauge reads pegged out and then fuel cuts.
anything i should check for?:confused::confused::confused:
 
Did you set all the knobs and dip switches correctly?

Also what's your wideband reading when your on the throttle?
 
You should pay no attention what so ever to the stock gauge in the car, it's simply there to give "Average joe owner"something to look at that proves to him the car is turbo (most regular folks don't have any idea what a turbo is) but the stock gauge doens't read in anything, there's no unit of measure, no baseline to seperate vacum and boost, nothing!! It simply rises at load increases on the engine.. About as usefull as the rest of the dummy lights in the dash to be honest.

Now, youre OEM MAF shouldn't be hooked uip, that's the point of installing the MAFT, to use another brand of MAF and get rid of the stock one for a coupleof reasons that aren't important to figuring out what your issue is. But i would say it's safe to say that something is setup wrong for the brand of MAF you're using or the MAF you're using is bad in general.. Tell us you didn't spray it with any typoe of cleaner or use some other method to try and "shine" it up before installing it??? Aside from "mass air flow sensor cleaner" you cna buy, you shouldn't spray or wipe the sensor with anything as most cases you will do some damage to it in one way or another.

Now, what are you talking about with the Stock MAFbeing hooked up?? are you using it to mount the air filter? if so it should be unplugged completely if it still is in the engine bay.

Double check all wiring and dip switch settings, as well as keeping the knobs zero'd. If you can borrow another MAF meter froma friend or something to test wether yours is bad or not. If you got it used at the boneyard there's achance it could be damaged, although they usually don't go bad that easy, people spraying themwith carb cleaner and other odd fluids can/will damage a MAF depending on the type it is it could be more or less damaged by these cleaning methods

although useless if the stock gauge is reading super high then maybe the car is thinking you're getting a lot more air than you are (hence fuel cut) and there for it's using an ignition timing map based on "safety" at those high air flow readings and taking all the power away from the car wtih retarded timing
 
I'm having the same problem. The stock boost gauge is pretty much just an engine load gauge.

I log using evoscan and I see that at 4-5psi I'm at 200 load units (which is max and activates fuel cut), 90+% duty cycle, wideband is at 9:1. The logged airflow is only 1100hz.

My best theory is that the locked air temp and barometer are messing up the ecu's load calculations. That would explain why 1100hz on the maft will cause me to have full load, while I can run the stock maf to 1600hz before I get full load
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top