Boost vacuum line help please

[TeclipseFTW]

I just bought an aftermarket set of vacuum lines from summit racing. they are silicone and supposed to be stronger than the stock lines. i replaced the lines in between the wastegate and my intake and the intercooler and now my boost is going up to 14 psi when before it stayed at 10 like it was supposed to. do i have a leak? should I make sure it isnt my gauge first? please help! Where do i get a good set of Vacuum lines/ clamps/ connector nipples?????

 

[gofer]

Get the RRE LARSON Silicone Hose Kit. You said your overboosting, according to RRE you must have gotten the red hoses?

 

[TeclipseFTW]

I did get the red hoses... they are super flimsy but i dont know why it is over boosting.

 

[gofer]

Pulled from the RRE Larson Hose Kit webpage...
Tuning Tip: Red is a good color for all around performance, however with a big turbo blue gets upwards of 10 hp, unless you have stock cams, then only 5 hp. Silver is best for bottom end power, mix with red for excellent mid-range. For NT cars, shift all recommendations one hue towards a warmer color. Yellow hose should only be used on high compression NTs or turbo cars with welded differentials. Proper Sticker Tuning can be a successful work around for any of these concerns.

With all the above info from the RRE site you probably should have just gone with black.

Are you sure you connected the vacuum lines back up correctly? You asked if you've got a leak but your OVERBOOSTING, meaning too much air. Thats like saying your bath tub is overflowing and you think its because theres a leak in the bottom of it. More than likely you hooked up the vacuum lines to the WG incorrectly and its not seeing boost/vacuum like it should.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

That qoute is a joke! Lol! Proper "sticker tuning" anyways I bought a hose kit from summit racing, not them. Anyone have a vacuum diagram? If there isn't a leak what Is the problem??

 

[wkmitsu]

That qoute is a joke! Lol! Proper "sticker tuning" anyways I bought a hose kit from summit racing, not them. Anyone have a vacuum diagram? If there isn't a leak what Is the problem??

Make sure everything is hooked up right. Post a picture of how its all put together now and everyone will be able to tell you if its right or not.

 

[gofer]

That qoute is a joke! Lol! Proper "sticker tuning" anyways I bought a hose kit from summit racing, not them. Anyone have a vacuum diagram? If there isn't a leak what Is the problem??

Yea, I know its a joke I was waiting for you to catch it. Look at the underside of your hood and if your lucky the OEM sticker of the vacuum diagram will be there.

Basically take pictures of EVERY vacuum hose you replaced, showing both ends of where its attached to and from.

 

[boostforfun]

If there was a hole or leak in the line running to the wastegate, it would build more boost due to the wastegate opening later because it is seeing less boost than is actually being produced by the turbo. This is how a bleeder type boost controller works.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Hey theses are the pictures i have. yes i have tried reversing the hoses on the selenoid and that did not fix the problem... please tell me what to do!! also, can i branch off of one of these hoses to go into my boost gauge? thanks

 

[TeclipseFTW]

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So does anyone know if the vacuum lines for the turbo pictured above are in the correct spots?

Also, in my new pictures i have found one cause of my problem. but it still isnt fixed. See on the picture where my boost gauge is hooked up? the red vacuum line that the gauge branches off of had a huge hole in it causing me to only see 10 psi max when i was boosting which is what it was supposed to be because i do not have a boost controller. so now that the hose doesnt have a hole in it my turbo is spooling past 16 psi and it needs to stay at 10!! please help i have no idea why I am boosting more than I should. also the other picture might help solve the problem... i know thats not how the vacuum hoses are supposed to be hooked up.

and I do not know what this dash light stands for if it will help. still looking for an original owners manual for the car.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Is this vacuum diagram accurate? can I set up my vacuum lines like this with only a manual boost controller? according to the diagram all i need is a line running from my wastegate into the MBC then onto the BOV and the intake manifold... is this safe to do? thanks please someone help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! need my car to run good

 

[Crazyjoker77]

Is this vacuum diagram accurate? can I set up my vacuum lines like this with only a manual boost controller? according to the diagram all i need is a line running from my wastegate into the MBC then onto the BOV and the intake manifold... is this safe to do? thanks please someone help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! need my car to run good

This has been covered many times and that diagram is mostly accurate and safe to use like that but over the years tuners have found a few things to note.

1. To remove all the lines (as per the diagram) a EGR blockoff plate MUST be installed if its not you need those vacuum lines and you cannot use this diagram.

2. Generally no one T's off the BOV line for the manual boost controller any more. This line should be kept short and connected to the nipple on either your turbos compressor housing or j pipe(shown capped in the diagram) and the BOV is still ran as shown only without the T.

3. The third line should go from your intake manifold to your Fuel Pressure Solenoid and from the solenoid to the Fuel pressure regulator. The solenoid can be bypassed all together by just running a line from the intake manifold to the the FPregulator and has been done by many members with no ill effects.

I assume you have a boost gauge and that should be T'd into the line going from the Intake manifold to the FPsolenoid(must be before the solenoid and not after)(as shown in diagram)

As well that dash light is for your cooling system and is suppose to be a old radiator. I would check your fluid.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Ok so i redid the picture. This is what you are saying would be ideal? Also, the radiator is new but the sensor in it isnt... full coolant for 3 months now so i have no leaks. bad sensor?

 

[Crazyjoker77]

your diagram is correct and is how I've been running mine for 2years now.

make sure to do a boost leak test after as I've never had all my lines and caps seal perfectly the first time and will check other things such as you IM gasket and Throttlebody shaft seals and BISS O-Ring

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Thank you. after researching all day, i have come to the conclusion that i have boost creep..... I dont have the time or knowledge to port my wastegate.... any other solutions? The boost creep is making my car run horrible. no power at all.

 

[MrBoxx]

Your new diagram is correct. Do not use the BOV line for anything but the BOV.

The low coolant sensor is in the bottom of the overflow bottle. It has either become plugged up with gunk, or the pigtail has come undone. Check it to see. The bottles tend to get gummed up over time. Take it out and clean it well, or just order a new one.

Have you done a proper boost leak test yet? That's your next thing to do. If you had boost creep, your boost wouldn't stop at 14psi. Does it truly stop there and hold 14psi to redline? Does it creep past 14? Does it hit 14 and fall?

Edit: Getting yourself a datalogger wouldn't be a bad idea, either. You're going to need one soon anyway.

 

[lilbro717]

maybe you had a leak and now its fixed

 

[TeclipseFTW]

I did have a leak. the vacuum hose going to the fuel pressure Solenoid had a huge hole in it. when i go WOT it will hit 11 then slowly go up to 15+ psi i havnt pushed it further so nothing gets damaged.... I have a datalogger. what can i do with that to help solve this problem? and ok i will clean out the coolant reservoir.

 

[MrBoxx]

As a quick test whether it's really boost creep or an issue with your boost control mechanism, take the vacuum hose from your turbo/j-pipe and connect it directly to the wastegate actuator nipple. This SHOULD give you roughly 11-12 psi of boost and no more. If you get more than that, you have a creep issue. If not, then something's amiss with your boost control solenoid.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

shouldnt i have boost creep though? new 3" exhaust all the way back? all the vacuum hoses that control boost are new and leak tested.... so im pretty sure its boost creep

 

[MrBoxx]

If that's the case, then you'll need to port your turbine housing and O2 housing. There's a VFAQ for that. It takes about half an hour to do the actual porting, give or take, assuming you have decent carbide bits and a good grinder with a large compressor. Takes much longer if you're using a Dremel with a sanding stone. Add to that however long it takes you to get your turbo off the car.

 

[TeclipseFTW]

Aww im trying to avoid porting out my o2 pipe and my housing...... i want to try some other methods discovered first that involve springs... so what exactly will fix boost creep? a stronger actuater? the wastegate flap opening further that normal?

 

[VTEC_lol]

I just bought an aftermarket set of vacuum lines from summit racing. they are silicone and supposed to be stronger than the stock lines. i replaced the lines in between the wastegate and my intake and the intercooler and now my boost is going up to 14 psi when before it stayed at 10 like it was supposed to. do i have a leak? should I make sure it isnt my gauge first? please help! Where do i get a good set of Vacuum lines/ clamps/ connector nipples?????

did you change the vacuum routing?

 

[TeclipseFTW]

I did change the vacuum routing to the diagram that I re-drew and it runs ok. I have a few issues to fix though.... my turbo has boost creep and the lifters tick so bad that the knock sensor goes crazy and the ECU pulls the timing as a result. installing my evo lifters tomorrow which will hopefully fix one of my issues. the boost creep however... might as well get the fuel mods to run higher boost.