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Pablobtown

Proven Member
108
3
Sep 16, 2013
Bloomington, Indiana
So I've had this issue for awhile now. But it was only occasional then went away immediately, even on my t-25. About two months ago I upgraded to a 14b and noticed the issue diminished slightly. However yesterday, till now, the motor will not boost. The turbo spools and the gauge (right off the intake Mani) reads 20psi like normal. The car won't move. What the hell is going on?? I also I did a leak test and found nothing.
 
Alright, so it seems to be driving fine. I did a test with a program called torque pro for android with a elm obd 2 adapter. It has a knock detection built in and it didn't see anything at WOT. But it also didn't retard the timing once on my little test drive and drove fine I thought. I also did the test where you hit the IM with a wrench to try to set off the knock sensor. Nothing changed in the idle or sound of the motor when I did that. Nor did the ecu see knock.

I am T-ing off the bov to the MBC which connects to the wastegate.[DOUBLEPOST=1407449015][/DOUBLEPOST]Also the boost leak test. The first test I did was the whole system. Plugged up my tester to the turbo inlet set the compressor to 20psi, and I couldn't listen because of all the noise the tester was making right before it blew up. So then I only tested the piping with a plug on the braided house that connects to the throttle body. So the piping tests out OK.

You could have a leak in the intake manifold gasket or injector seals also. Do a full system leak test. Just testing the piping is kind of pointless.
 
OK this is going to sound dumb. But how do I properly do a BLT? Because the throttle plate is shut, all it would do is test the piping up to the throttle plate right? Should I have a friend sit in the car with the pedal down while I put air through the system?
The throttle plate is far from sealed. You don't have to push the pedal down, just hook up the boost leak tester to the turbo and pump air in.
 
Alright, so it seems to be driving fine. I did a test with a program called torque pro for android with a elm obd 2 adapter. It has [DOUBLEPOST=1407449015][/DOUBLEPOST]Also the boost leak test. The first test I did was the whole system. Plugged up my tester to the turbo inlet set the compressor to 20psi, and I couldn't listen because of all the noise the tester was making right before it blew up. So then I only tested the piping with a plug on the braided house that connects to the throttle body. So the piping tests out OK.

Bro, when you hook up your tester it's a really bad idea to set it to straight to 20psi :nono:
The proper way to do it is to hook up the tester, remove the oil cap then start pressuring it at 5psi and slowly go from there
 
Don't trust torque for knock detection. It does not work correctly.

The bov line shouldn't have any tees in it.

The boost lesk test needs to be done on the motor as well. Fix whatever blew up on yout tester and try it again. Check the tb seals, injector seals, I'm gasket, vac lines, boost gauge lines... anything really
 
One of my j-pipes didn't have one either, so I just grabbed a air-compressor fitting at home depot (I think auto-zone or Reilly's has them too) I drilled out a hole in the j-pipe slightly smaller that the fittings threads and screwed it in then secured/sealed it with JB Weld. Cheap and quick and leak free.
 
That's what I did. OK so I replaced the bov and throttle body gaskets. Because those were the only two leaks i found. And its much better but not fixed. It will boost and hold boost. But occasionally 1/15 times it pulls timing and its noticeable. I'm going to be getting a wideband within the next couple of days. I also have gaskets for everything on the intake but won't get to that till this weekend.
 
If I do multiple pulls in a row, and am driving under normal conditions (in summer heat) my car will also throw out a few counts of knock. and I run a sealed air box with a fmic.

Without lowering iat's and having a set up to run in boost back to back or for long periods of time, then you will see knock and timing being pulled while you beat up on it.

Hold a hair dryer to your hand, the longer you have it on the hotter the air it blows.... small comparison, but once your intercooler heat soaks it is essentially worthless. And from your bolt on list, it appears you still have the small 10"x10"side mount. A couple pulls and that thing is ineffective.

Just more to think about on your journey.
 
Thank you Breezio69, I just ordered a AEM Uego WB so hopefully ill be setting that up soon. So I replaced all my gaskets except the intake manifold and injectors. Still not sure that I really need to. I also replaced the gaskets on the oil return from my turbo because since my 14b swap its always have a very slight leak. However it made a burning smell because the little bit of oil that did come out went straight onto the exhaust and burnt... Now my turbo makes a weird almost a siren type noise. It sounds like something is rubbing on a belt... But only in boost. Still boosts alright though... Any thoughts on that? It's just one thing after another with this car... Also thirsty I have no idea how to check for fuel pressure, so no I have not... Thanks guys
 
You'd have to get video of the turbo sound, no clue. Easiest way to see if its toast or on its way out is to pull the intake and check for shaft play. Wiggle it side to side and then try and grab the nut and push/pull to check for in out play. Did you possibly kink the return when you changed the gasket?

Fuel pressure, as stated, can be read with an afpr, or adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

And keep your head up, once you get things fixed and use quality parts to fix issues it will be worth it. I've uad my car 3 years now, I spent a year dealing with piddly stuff like this before I got all the bugs worked out. Last two years have been awesome! :thumb:
 
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