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Blew my T28...16G??

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airFS

15+ Year Contributor
98
0
Oct 9, 2006
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
I just replaced my stock turbo about 2000mi ago and replaced it with a used, but in practically new condition T28. Today I was driving along and couldnt make any boost or even accelerate and I actually thought it was something with the clutch which I just had replaced. After realizing it was my turbo I took off the intake pipe and could literaly pull the shaft in and out about a half inch. :notgood:


Since I now need a new turbo I had some questions about a 16G. I havent done any fuel mods or even added a boost gauge/controller and with the way my budget is now I could afford it but really cant spend alot of money. Due to this I thought the most practical turbo would be the small 16G because its obviously the smallest one, and I wouldnt have to adjust my current set up would I? Also would I have to port my stock manifold?
 
What exactly is your budget because you can get a used e3 16g for $350. Almost all the 16g's are within the same price range and if it was me i would go for the e3. It has much more potental. You dont really need any fuel mods if you run stock boost and leave it that way. You also don't have to port you manifold. It will help spool/flow but is not completely necessary for you i dont think.
 
Find a used EvoIII 16g, get a boost gauge, a mbc (if you don't have one yet), and a logger. You can run low boost on the EvoIII 16g to avoid getting knock or fuel cut. Use a data logger to check to make sure you're not getting knock to be safe though. If you use Pocketlogger you can't monitor knock directly, but you can check the timing for signs of knock. I would recommend porting the 16g to help prevent boost creep. Don't forget that when you get a 16g you'll also need a 2g install kit. What is your budget? Have you thought about rebuilding your T28? Make sure you get a mbc and a boost gauge with whatever turbo you choose.
 
I kind of want to stray from used turbos just because the one I bought failed so quickly. And I'm looking at abudget of about $700-800 with everything I need (2g kit, boost gauge/controller, etc.)
 
Before you do anything, I would verify the cause of your "pratically new condition" T28's death. Alot of the time turbo failure is user/install error. Wouldn't want you to go spending more money on a new turbo & have it suffer the same fate.....
 
Open the CHRA and inspect it for signs of oil starvation or contamination--those are the two most likely causes.
 
I kind of want to stray from used turbos just because the one I bought failed so quickly. And I'm looking at abudget of about $700-800 with everything I need (2g kit, boost gauge/controller, etc.)

Forced Performance is having a sale on brand new MHI EvoIII 16g turbos. $549 shipped
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271838

I agree with the others that you should inspect the T-28 to determine the cause of the turbo failure.
 
Open the CHRA and inspect it for signs of oil starvation or contamination--those are the two most likely causes.



Dont want to sound like an idiot but what do you mean by the CHRA? Also when I took off my intake pipe the wheel was covered in oil if that would help anyone try to solve my problem. I'm not too shure how it would be a problem with oil because when I primed it when it was installed it seemed to get good flow. Also when I bought the turbo it had a little shaft play so I'm curious if it could have been a former problem that just got greater over time. Also my car has had a problem with buning oil ever since I bought it.
 
If you go with the E316G turbo you are gonna have to buy a lot of stuff unless you run really low boost. If you only have a certain budget I would say use that $800 to buy a beater that runs good and save money til you can afford everything.
 
airFS said:
I havent done any fuel mods or even added a boost gauge/controller and with the way my budget is now I could afford it but really cant spend alot of money.








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