Blank VS Slotted/Drilled rotors?

[willye_br]

Hey guys i got 2 questions.i drive my car normal usually , SOMETIMES i do race around in the highway at high speeds ONCE IN A MONTH or so but anyways i wanted to get the drilled rotors.I did a research in the forum already and i found out that most of you guys hate drilled but my car is a non turbo and i dont go to tracks AT ALL.

#1. Would it be ok to get slotted/Drilled rotors for daily driving in the highway?

#2. Which brake pads are OK and not too expensive?


PLEASE IF YOU HAVE OPINIONS IF I SHOULD GET BLANK, SLOTTED, OR SLOTTED/DRILLED FOR A NT DSM THAT DRIVES DAILY WITH SOME RACING AROUND SOMETIMES JUST LET ME KNOW


Thanks a lot guys!

 

[LiquidX]

For the most part, blanks are perfectly fine until you need to do continous/hard braking link in autox or racing. I'd stay away from drilled rotors since they weaken the rotor. Big name rotors may be different like Brembo. Slotted are great, they'll wear your pads down a little faster but have great stopping power as well. Powerslot is a good company for them. The advantage to the slotting is to shave the pad for a flat surface for more surface area and to allow gasses to escape from under the pad which when the gasses build up and it's harder to stop it's called brake fade.

Overall, you'll be fine with blanks unless you want to have great stopping power and you really can't go overboard with safety.

Hawks are used by a lot of members and EBC

 

[Joshuah Stedman]

Why do you want to do this? like for astethics? what are you looking for in brakes? no fade, long lasting? your questions seems kind of vauge, no offence...

 

[Simadowna119]

unless your just going for looks, i wouldnt get them...... besides looks how would it benefit you if your not taking it to the track(using them)? plus they will whisle slightly...like when you here a cop car pull up

i would be more interested in installing a turbo

 

[USER_22]

Just get dimpled/slotted if you want the drilled look without the 100% rotor weaken effect. Or if you just want more performance out of your rotors just get slotted since they slice away things that can take braking power from your brakes and they renew the bite each time the breaks are pressed in.

 

[willye_br]

Its basically I NEED NEW BRAKES SOON. rotors+pads. but why do the new cars mostly have them?bmws,porche,mustangs and such if the slotted is better than drilled why would the put a OEM rotor that is KNOWN for craking? i just dont get it

 

[LiquidX]

unless your just going for looks, i wouldnt get them...... besides looks how would it benefit you if your not taking it to the track(using them)? plus they will whisle slightly...like when you here a cop car pull up

i would be more interested in installing a turbo

Upgrading rotors wouldn't benefit unless you're taking it to the track ! Better stopping power is a great upgrade for any vehicle on the road. If you can stop an extra 50ft short going 60mph then you could have just saved your front end and kept your insurance lower. OP if you want to upgrade your brakes go with what I recomended and if you want to go a step further, get braided lines. They'll make the pedal a bit stiffer for a more solid feel.

Above is right though, you really shouldn't be racing on the highway even if you can stop better

 

[LiquidX]

Its basically I NEED NEW BRAKES SOON. rotors+pads. but why do the new cars mostly have them?bmws,porche,mustangs and such if the slotted is better than drilled why would the put a OEM rotor that is KNOWN for craking? i just dont get it

Key thing, OEM. They would have done a lot more R&D on the rotors to make sure they meet their standards and requirements unlike some of the "low grade" rotors that will crack and are made of inferior material.

 

[willye_br]

I know i shouldnt be racing but around where i live its all HONDA CIVICS and they rev at you with their 56 HP engine and i just wont let no civic noob make fun of a dsm like that but anyways ill get the slotted i guess thereis no need for a drilled but guys another question which pads would be best for a slotted
*metalic
*semi-metalic
* ceramic?

help me out guys

 

[LiquidX]

Semi-metallic is good enough. Go with either Hawk HP or EBC green. Search around and you can find a good price on powerslot rotors. Instead of racing them, just laugh and save your gas. If they give you a problem, tell them to meet you at the track and if they back down, then you know you are better for doing it the right way and not being a ####.

 

[willye_br]

i found these hawk pads on ebay for $60 is this it?

Hawk 90-01 Mitsubishi Eclipse Front HPS Brake Pads:eBay Motors (item 110408337950 end time Jul-28-09 04:51:57 PDT)



Check it out if they are good ill get them

 

[USER_22]

Ceramic all the way. Anything else will eat away at your rotors over time and you will have to replace them. I would rather replace my brakes a lil bit faster then having to replace my rotor again down the line faster then I normally would have to.

 

[willye_br]

Can anyone tell me HOW TO BED IN the new pads? i know it has to do with drivng fast and braking without stopping the car if you know how to do it exactly PLEASE TELL ME STEP MY STEP how to do this i will appreciate it .


Thanks a lot

 

[gieri002]

Just do a simple search I know its on here somewhere.

 

[willye_br]

I did and i couldn't find it that's why i asked IF anyone knew to tell me ?

 

[gieri002]

Oh well here you go then....

Break-In:

The way I broke them in was I did 65-10mph with hard braking about 5 times, while letting them cool (NO COMPLETE STOPS!) a few seconds between and then taking the car home and letting them completely cool down for a few hours. Then you should be good to go!

 

[gieri002]

Found it here when I searched.....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/304326-ebay-raceconcepts-brake-rotor-review.html

 

[LiquidX]

Ceramic all the way. Anything else will eat away at your rotors over time and you will have to replace them. I would rather replace my brakes a lil bit faster then having to replace my rotor again down the line faster then I normally would have to.

Ceramic are going to eat real bad at the rotor bad, not as bad as full metallic though. Organic pads have some metal in them and semi metallic are most likely the organic/metallic pads.

Think of the ceramic with clutches. They don't make puck clutches in anything less than ceramic because of the gripping power needed. Ceramic will EAT the rotors along with full metallic. They are more for race applications that need instant stopping force.

 

[USER_22]

Ceramic are going to eat real bad at the rotor bad, not as bad as full metallic though. Organic pads have some metal in them and semi metallic are most likely the organic/metallic pads.

Think of the ceramic with clutches. They don't make puck clutches in anything less than ceramic because of the gripping power needed. Ceramic will EAT the rotors along with full metallic. They are more for race applications that need instant stopping force.

Ok, #1: Your words are jumbling together... #2: Of ceramic, semi-metallic, and metallic: ceramic brakes eats at the rotor less, and extend rotor life as I stated before. Some info on why ceramic brakes are better.

 

[LiquidX]

Ok, #1: Your words are jumbling together... #2: Of ceramic, semi-metallic, and metallic: ceramic brakes eats at the rotor less, and extend rotor life as I stated before. Some info on why ceramic brakes are better.

That second "bad" wasn't supposed to be there. You're right, I was associating ceramic as a hard solid pad similar to clutch pucks. I believe the EBC pads are ceramic after reading that link you posted. I assumed that it was semi metallic due to the copper in it. Thank you for clearing that up.

 

[greg90gs]

get slotted rotors, obviously no one knows why they make slotted and drilled rotors, when you apply the brakes no matter where you are, your brakes produce a high heat gas so they make slotted and drilled rotors so when you apply the brakes that gas has somewhere to go and to be dispersed away from the rotor, there for keeping the rotor cooler, there for reducing the chance of warpage, there for using up less pad matterial, so i would highly recomend getting slotted rotors especially if its a daily driver you are doing more stopping in high heat situations then at the track, yes at the track you are going faster and hitting the breaks rather hard, but when dd you have the heat from your car and the cars around you, and every stop sign and stop light, if you spend the extra money now you will spend less money on brakes in the future

 

[tim4g63fast]

your best brake upgrade other than size is made in the pads

slots and drilled holes, drilled holes were designed to scrape the pads, but if you buy good pads there not going to glaze over so that solves your problem with that.

 

[Rob10_99]

Oh well here you go then....

Break-In:

The way I broke them in was I did 65-10mph with hard braking about 5 times, while letting them cool (NO COMPLETE STOPS!) a few seconds between and then taking the car home and letting them completely cool down for a few hours. Then you should be good to go!

Correct, best case would be an open freeway from 80-20 and letting them cool off between each slowdown. You need to heat up your brakes as well as put wear on the new rotor/pad for them to seat.
It's a pita to do on a racecar with gigantic brakes and racepads that never heat up =)

I would go for slotted with the Hawk pads. Good on the street and you WILL be able to tell the difference in braking power. Even with standard size rotors.

 

[UnsafeAtAnySpd]

The outgassing argument is no longer valid with modern pad material. Slotted pads can help maintain a fresher pad surface but that doesn't really matter on the road. Drilled rotors can be prone to cracking with track use, but as long as it's a quality rotor you won't have any issues on the street.

Also, rotors are designed as a wear part, so expect to replace them from time to time. I wouldn't compromise pad selection because of extra rotor wear. They don't cost that much on these cars anyway.

As for what to go with, pick up a quality set of drilled or slotted rotors if you like the look. I like HP+ pads but they do dust quite a bit. The HPS isn't as bad and the dust is a lighter color as well.

But yeah, don't be a dumbass out on the highway.

Edit: For bedding, it does depend some on the pad. Most quality pads will have a recommended procedure anyway.

 

[TunaTalon]

One more thing to worry about is having the rotors refinished someday. Many brake shops will not attempt to refinish slotted rotors.

My Powerslot rotors have been on the Talon for over 80,000 miles and are still going strong.
After the Axxis Metal Master pads wore out, I replaced them with Axxis Ultimate pads and they stop better the Metal Master's when cold and as good when hot. I can recommend the Powerslot rotors and Ultimate pads. Well as least if you care more about stopping than dust.