Better Setup for street use?

[Spooling99]

I got a new job and now im really ready to mod my car. The thing is my motor has about 140k on it and its not in the best shape. Im looking at 2 different routes. A, Bushur racing stage 1 shortlblock or B, 2.3 stroker kit from SBR and build up a spare 6bolt block. My goal for the car is a 11.9. The turbo I would like to run is a FP green with supporting mods. I like the stroker because of the better spool time but what do you guys think? Any input is greatly appreciated.

-Adam

 

[DGajre777]

If you want better spool get PTEs dual ball bearing turbo.

Why not rebuild your stock engine?

 

[Spooling99]

Thanks for the fast reply. I would like to build up a spare block because my car is my DD and I drive it to work. How long does the average rebuild take?

* I want to run around mid 20psi, and like to hit full boost around 3800ish If thats possible.

 

[DGajre777]

The PTE Dual ball bearing 50 trim which is the 5031RE spools up at 3200RPM on a 2.0 (Spool-Up rpm is 200-400 quicker for 2.3-2.4 liter) and it is a 450HP turbo. And the turbo is similar to the FP Green but with faster spool up for street use. Go to www.dejonpowerhouse.com and then click on DSM and then Turbochargers on the left, for more info.

The average rebuild time depends on where you get it done. Some shops take 3 days, some take 3 weeks. It might be cheaper to buy another 6 bolt, rebuild that one and swap it with the one you have now so you won't have that big of a down time.

 

[andymoraitis]

Adam,

Dee has a really great point about the BB turbos. If you can afford one, so be it, but a 50 trim and a 2.3 setup would also work really well. I know we've been working on your Keydiver Chip and the great thing is we can still handle control of the A/F and timing through the chip without needing anything else on a new motor. At the moment, I'm spooling my 50 trim on the stroker by about 4200 or so with Comp 200's. As a result, Jeff is taking some timing out of the midrange and leaning up my A/F from 2-4K to make more heat in the motor and get the turbine spinning sooner. It should work like a charm.

In any event, once you drive a stroker, you'll love it. The off boost power is fantastic and it makes gobs of torque. Properly built, it can be a reliable and very fun daily driver. I'd recommend that you buy the stroker parts and have a machine shop do all of your work since most shops are under heavy backlog. Blocks are cheap to come by and you can always hang on to your motor as a spare.

Hope that makes sense,

Andy

 

[Spooling99]

Thanks for the help. I was looking around and have found spare 6bolt blocks for like 150$ or around there. I've heard the average machine shop will bore cylinders for 20$ per cylinder or around there depending on the shop. I'll be sure to take a look at that turbo as well DGajre thanks alot.

-Adam

 

[andymoraitis]

Adam,

Whatever you do, remember that a great motor starts with a great machine shop. You can buy the best parts and if they screw up, time and money have been wasted. Don't be afraid to spend a bit more on the machining process to get what you want. I'd recommend that they also balance the motor to keep it healthy in addition to the standard complement of services.

Cheers,

Andy

 

[Spooling99]

Thanks for all your guys help. I was just wondering whats the lifespan of a Green or a PTE DBB turbo?

 

[andymoraitis]

If they're both oil cooled center sections, fresh oil and proper cooldown procedures will add to their life. It's hard to say, but I don't see why you couldn't run one for a few years or more and then rebuild them. I make it a practice to check for shaft play on my turbos periodically (around every oil change). If you catch something early, you can have a rebuild performed before the rotating assembly is damaged beyond repair.

I actually stopped checking my 16G months ago. Even running it to 30 psi, I never saw shaft play in the time that I owned it. While build quality has a great deal to do with turbo longevity, how much boost you run and how well you maintain them (see above) is a huge component.

 

[Spooling99]

Thanks again Andy. I'll be sure to keep an eye on it

 

[Spooling99]

The FP green has a Thrust bearing right, its not a ball bearing turbo? I've been looking at the PTE and it doesn't seem like a bad deal, I believe it flows around 49lbs/min. Spool up should be good. You guys know anyone running one of these?

 

[UMR98GSX]

If you are serious about looking at the ball bearing PTE's check out this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200505

 

[Spooling99]

Sounds like a really nice turbo. Full spool (20psi) by 3800 on a 2.0 ltr sounds nice. I heard them talking about surge but Im not sure if anyone has ran ito yet.

 

[DGajre777]

If they're both oil cooled center sections, fresh oil and proper cooldown procedures will add to their life. It's hard to say, but I don't see why you couldn't run one for a few years or more and then rebuild them.

The PTE Ball Bearing turbos are water cooled with a restrictor to let low amounts of oil to the turbo. I would say that both turbos will last almost the same amount of time since they are both water cooled, wet bearing turbos.

I'm sure this has been mentioned a million times, but get oil directly from the oil filter, not the head.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Unless your motor has really low compression I wouldn't really worry about it all that much.

My Bone Stock 7bolt with 222,000 kms handles 11 second passes just fine.

And I too vote for a 50 trim, my Non BB 50 trim see's full boost right around 4k in 3rd with FP2x's and a SMIM.

 

[Spooling99]

I think I figured this out. Im gonna go 2.3ltr stroker with Manley I beams and Wiesco pistons bored .020 over. Im gonna run the PTE DBB 50 trim as well. Thanks for all your help and information guys.
-Adam