Best Throttle Body Shaft Seals and How Long do they Last?

[GSLENK]

Ok what do you guys run? I'm talking 91-99 dsm or evo etc...

Mine just went bad after 2-3 years (can see bubbles in soapy water from BLT). I did a lot of research and got the best ones I thought money could buy. It has been about 2 years. These are the ones (Mil.Spec) that I bought through STM I think...

http://www.mil-spec.org/Evo-8-9-Throttle-Shaft-Seals.html

JNZ has been my vendor of choice lately and they have some exclusive things I need and want to tack these onto an order.

Are they the same as these?
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_evo_dsm_3000gt_throttle_body_seals.htm

The ones I would be getting:
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_37_182&products_id=560

Share your success and failure stories. I also have no intention of going to HDR for o-rings. No thanks.

 

[SBstar]

I've had very good luck with the seals that I described in this thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-throttle-body-seal-replacement.243135/

 

[snowborder714]

All depends on what your goals are as to which ones I'd recommend.

The mil.specs are the "best" in the regards to how much boost they can hold. The first two links are the same seal. These can be difficult to install since they are not chamfered on the edge that goes in first.

If you're going to run more than 30psi, I'd steer you more towards a metal cased seal (mil.spec or not). I've seen reports of the standard seal that JNZ has listed being tested at 30psi with no leaks. I haven't seen any reports on longevity of any aftermarket seals so far assuming they're installed properly.

 

[GSLENK]

Im 99% sure I did mine correctly. I used a wooden dowel to drive them in, and plenty of dielectric grease. (I also did press many a hub seal in my trailer building/repair days, same idea) Whatever they are, they leak past 15 to 20 psi. I plan on running up to 30 psi on the 20g. But an FP red is in the mail, and so are a bunch of e85 goodies. I test my system to 35+psi now in preparation for the near future. And the TB seals and BISS are the only leaks. AARRRGGGHHH

Shane, what boost levels (I assume only psi and not overall airflow affect the seals) are you running and what have you Boost Leak pressure tested them to? I was under the impression that the Chicago Rawhide ones were the budget minded versions.

I suppose I will default to JNZ for now. I do need to order ASAP though. I'm trying to get the most out of the 20g before upgrading.

 

[snowborder714]

The Chicago Rawhide seals are very similar to the ones JNZ has listed. They are your standard non-metal seal.

 

[GSLENK]

Ok gotcha. I went with the Mil.Spec ones again. Ordered directly from the source. After perusing the associated Evom thread.

I'm still interested in BLT results from this and other brands if any exist. Possibly also the age of the seals on the car. I don't want to rebuild my TB every 2 years.

 

[Hal]

Replacing the seals is pointless if the shaft/bushings are so worn that the shaft moves around, corrupting the sealing capability or causing premature wear of what ever seal you put in it.

Hal

 

[My1GLaser]

I've used the Chicago Rawhide seals in all my TB over the years. They are similar to rotational seals like cam, crank, cv shaft, etc. I personally think they are superior to the oring stuffed in a metal housing type seal. My current one is at least 2 years old with no issues. I BLT to 40 psi and never have any leaks. I install with dielectric grease. I've rebuilt 4 or 5 TBs over the last 7 years with great results.

 

[twicks69]

I have always used the Chicago Rawhide ones in my customer throttle bodies as well as my own. I have a clean throttle body to start with, then I thin coat Permatex Ultra Black RTV on the OD of the seal, and the bore of the throttle body with a QTip, then install the seal, then clean off the excess RTV with clean QTips. Once the RTV has cured (normally I give a day), then I use a high viscosity synthetic grease and lubricate the ID of the seal, and the shaft bore bushings, then install the shaft and throttle plate, then install the plate screws after I center it all up. When I install the TPS plastic washer, I coat the backside of the washer with a healthy dose of the same high viscosity grease, then install the TPS switch, lock washer and nut and install the TPS sensor and calibrate it.

I have had zero issues with the CR3030 and CR3930 seals when installed like this over 10 years of doing these.

 

[boostneverlies]

I used these http://www.machv.com/throtbodseal.html for the past 3 years at 25-35psi and have not had any problems. I used dielectric grease on the seals before installing them.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

+1 on my Chicago Rawhide seals. They tested to 25lbs with no problems and easy to install. Mine seemed to be metal with rubber type coating. Still always use some dielectric grease though. The mil spec seals are good also but yes they can be a bit harder to install, but done right they work great. I posted the vendor info for Chicago Rawhide in another thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1990-tb-seals-any-vendor-offering-them.477766/#post-153421834

 

[kchaazz]

I just gently removed the original seals from my TB, then used a hobby razor to carefully remove all remnants of the rubber from the metal rings, then found viton orings that fit snugly around the shaft on the inside, and snugly to the ring, then lubed it all with dielectric grease and its lasted three years on this car, and it lasted nine years on one of my other cars and they still weren't bad when I got rid of the other car. I run my BLT with constant, regulated 30psi and they never leak, and I even actuate the TB by hand every time I do a BLT just to make sure.

 

[GSLENK]

Mil.Specs installed and they can handle the 40psi now. Also did the free FIAV mod while I was in there. On first reassembly, the freeze plug leaked. Took it off again, used some silicone sealant on the inside (rated to 400*F) no more leaks. Finally boost leak free again.