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Best Shortblock on The Market?

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SikRacing97GST

15+ Year Contributor
308
0
Feb 17, 2004
Knoxville, Tennessee
That's right graduation is comming up, and My father and I had planned on buying a new car, but for the price we could build the :dsm: back up to spec. I am looking for the top of the line Shortblock as of now. I'm currently building a head and sad to say but I kind of want to stick with a 7bolt block, ya ya i know but hey its what i want to do if someone builds these up from the ground. The only reason I want to buy a complete block is b/c Id rather have it all done right the first time rather than having to run to a machine shop every other day. Oh and BTW The car runs fine it rolled over to 100k miles just the other night, but compression isnt all that great and its starting to burn a tiny amount of oil. But needless to say that I am looking for a built shortblock under 4k. Let me know what your suggestions and where I need to start looking, thanks again guys-Tony
 
Find a machineist local that Knows your motor and has done many of them. I would highly recomend a 6 bolt block because of the crank walk issues with ALL of the 7 bolts. Keep it local to because if ou have a problem with anything he can help you not someone 3k miles away.
 
I know darren at ffwd, hes a very good freind of mine and he puts out awsome motors. I dont know the guys at sbr but im sure they do as well. If i were you I would go with one of these guys they specialize in these motors. Therefore I think they would produce you a better motor than someone who deals with a hundred different motors. Oh and I would go with a 6 bolt to. Maybe not all 7 bolts have cw issues, but some do so why take the chance? Get a 6 bolt and you have no worries. :thumb:
 
i don't even know of shops that sell built 7 bolts.

I personally would just keep the current engine, boost it up and if it blows it goes but whatever.
 
If you are going to throw down some money, get the Buschur Racing Stage 3 shortblock. It's the best I've ever seen and can handle anything you can throw at it. It won't be a 6 bolt and I think they have a core charge of $500 if you can't come up with one. It's the best there is as of now in my opinion. Go to their website and check it out.

[Buschur Racing
 
2 logs of utter shit in one post.. all 7 bolts have crankwalk and he is better off going to a local shop than a dsm specialty shop that has built hundreds of 4g63's....



:thumbdown
 
hey i gotta a buddy in boise that is gonan do my car and he has a dsm shop up there and he has 4 dsm plus mine with crankwalk he said he wouldnt buy a 7 bolt for $5 there pointless he said i see were he comes from im going with a 6 u should also
 
Ok so I assume you are talking about my posts, the ones you referred to as utter shit. First off what I said, if you can read is, not all 7 bolts have crankwalk issues but some do. There is a crucial 3 letter word in there (NOT) if you dont know the meaning I suggest you look it up. And second I didnt say the local dsm shop I said someone like ffwd, sbr or br. The reason I say that is I had an 87 chrysler lazer 2.2 turbo and my motor went out and instead of getting a good built shortblock from a shop who specialized in them, I got one from a company who sold hundreds of different motors so I could save a few bucks. Well, maybe quite a few bucks. But the motor was plauged with low oil pressure and soon died again. However my freind who had an 86 bought a shortblock from the shop who specialized in those cars and there biggest baddest head then went to clicking off mid to high 12 second times with the car, which is pretty good for those cars. My point being I regretted it. If you dont agree with my posts, then say I disagree with igor. I can handle that. But why would you call my posts utter shit, what are you ten years old? Even most ten year olds can comprehend the word Not!! :shhh: :thumb:
 
Irregardless, crankwalk is not as common an affliction as you would have people think.

Can't go wrong w/ Buschur, SBR, Magnus..
 
TSIfreek said:
Find a machineist local that Knows your motor and has done many of them. I would highly recomend a 6 bolt block because of the crank walk issues with ALL of the 7 bolts. Keep it local to because if ou have a problem with anything he can help you not someone 3k miles away.

Igor i believe this is the post he was referring to.
 
Hey bro,

Living where we do, the best bet that I can tell you is to go to Horsepower House in Lexington. It's about a 2 1/2 hour drive straight up I-75 and they are the best in the southeast. When you call, ask for J.R. or Eric, both are dsm guru's.

Go to www.horsepowerhouse.com for their contact information. If you want to hear about my experience with them, pm me.

Eric is a wiseman on here I think (90gsx), and a former mod here (Cucumber, also from K-town) got his 6-bolt put in by them.
 
All this posting and not one person has asked what your goals are. Why would you spend around 4K on a short block if you only want to go low 12's? You could spend that money else were and have a better all around car.

I know it can be fun to say that you have a fully build botton end, but there can be some problems and addded maintenance when going fully forged.
 
After reading the first 3 post I decided not to read anymore missinformation, so please forgive me if I have retyped anything that is already spelled out.



Things I would need to know to point you in the right direction.....


What type of power are you looking to make?

What amount of money do you have to spend?

Do you have the parts/replacements already picked out?

Why not go for a 6bolt, it is not that big of a pain to swap over the 7 to a 6 if you are taking everything out?

If you would go 6bolt and have limited money, I would suggest a simple 1G/2G build, grab the best of both worlds.

Have you given a 64 any thought?
 
Oh um, well oops. i guess I get a little touchy sometimes. Im not taking my medication. I refuse to take it. Those cute little fuzzy bunnies are up to something I just know it!!! :mad:

Well anyway, carry on!!!!!!!! :D
 
ok guys 6-bolt it is, found one close by. Its been rebuilt with New Pistons 7:8 to 1 and Rings std bore,Polished Crankshaft,Clevitte Rod and Main Bearings,Balance shaft elimination kit,Water pump and timing components Complete rotating assembly,Ported&Polished and rebuilt cylinder head with 92 Galant vr4 cams Comes with Crank angle sensor and valve cover, front covers and crank pulley.
Felpro blue stripe head gasket. Guy said if i come pick it up he'll let it go for 1,500 bucks, does this make since? And also I haven't heard of using the galant cams, i guess thats because im not very knowlegable with 6bolt. Let me know what you guys think, thanks Tony.

By the way: Im looking to keep this as my daily driver, if this is to much of a motor and Im going to have to continue working on it as i do now, i would much rather just swap in another 7bolt. I dont have time to be taking apart the head and running back to the machine shop during college next fall.

And on another note: Im guessing i need to sell the FPT28 if Im ging 6bolt, considering the 16g or 20g is easier to install on the 6bolt, or am i wrong? :confused:
 
SikRacing97GST said:
ok guys 6-bolt it is, found one close by. Its been rebuilt with New Pistons 7:8 to 1 and Rings std bore,Polished Crankshaft,Clevitte Rod and Main Bearings,Balance shaft elimination kit,Water pump and timing components Complete rotating assembly,Ported&Polished and rebuilt cylinder head with 92 Galant vr4 cams Comes with Crank angle sensor and valve cover, front covers and crank pulley.
Felpro blue stripe head gasket. Guy said if i come pick it up he'll let it go for 1,500 bucks, does this make since? :


Bring $1,500 with you and start the bid war. Tell him you will take it for $1,250 and go from there. Once it is in your posession take your 7bolt pistons and 6bolt rods to get machined/cleaned for proper fit. 2g 7 bolt pistons are stronger, and have have a higher compression ratio than the stock 6 bolts (7.8:1, for six bolts, 8.5:1 for 7 bolts).. Replace the Head Gasket with a Mitsu Mulit-layer ($65) and then drop it in. Then take your 2G head to a place that "KNOWS" how to port and get your 2G ported and use the 1G intake manifold and the 2G exhaust manifold. A ported 2G head will flow better then a ported 1G. Then take the 1G cams out of the 6bolt head and use them on the newly ported 2G head.

There you have it. A 1G/2G rebuilt fresh motor. The most worry free motor you are going to run with anything from a 14b-20G territory.

That is what I would do personally. You might as well do everything now while it is out. Just my opinion. Others may say different, but that is what I would do. :thumb:
 
boostedinaz said:
All this posting and not one person has asked what your goals are. Why would you spend around 4K on a short block if you only want to go low 12's? You could spend that money else were and have a better all around car.

I know it can be fun to say that you have a fully build botton end, but there can be some problems and addded maintenance when going fully forged.

Well, he DID ask for the best shortblock on the market..
 
midnght said:
Then take your 2G head to a place that "KNOWS" how to port and get your 2G ported and use the 1G intake manifold and the 2G exhaust manifold. A ported 2G head will flow better then a ported 1G.

I disagree, and I think many others will too. A ported 1g will rock a ported 2g.
 
AWD Eagle said:
I disagree, and I think many others will too. A ported 1g will rock a ported 2g.

I don't agree with that. Ported 2G heads flow more, and I'd like to search, but I'm tired and am going to bed.
 
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