Best Rebuild Route?

[indy1g]

Im looking for thoughts on how i should rebuild this engine.

Current mods:
DSMchip
750 RC injectors
Walbro 255
narrow band
Greddy EGT
SAFC knobby

Now, im rebuilding the car due to the fact the previous owner decided it would be fun to run 25 PSI on the stock internals. which resulted in massive smoke and the cylinders reading 120 120 120 50 so.. im fixing this idiots mistakes..

Here is what i had in mind..

Im getting the block bored .20 and o ringed BS removed. heres where it gets questionable for me..

I want to be able to run 25-28 PSI... im going for weisco 8.3-1's.. are the stock rods up to the task? or is it really worth it to shell out 300 bucks for eagle h beams? also.. ill be upgrading to the evo III BIG 16g soon would this even put out 25 PSI efficently? I realise that 25-28 is a high number.. but thats what i plan on running track.. around town probably 18-20.. maybe less.. before i even start my new engine i will probably swap to DSMlink.

Any comments are appreciated.

Disclaimer* No, im not your typical run of the mill 16 year old with a boost hard on... These are just uncharted waters for me as im used to SBC's and other V8's just looking for a little info to shoot me in the right direction.

 

[COBHC]

What are your power goals? The Eagles would probably be a wise decision if you are looking to make some good power.

As for the EVO3, I don't know about running 25psi or more, you might want to look into an 18g.

Hope that helps.

 

[indy1g]

I dont really have "power goals" per say...

But in reality i wanna run low 12's high 11's and remain stock sounding.. Is that possible with the stock cams? i would like to keep my BOV as a recirculating system.. can a evo 3 run high 11's? maybe my boost #'s are out of whack..

 

[turboglenn]

Scratch that narrow band, you'll never tune any motor to 225-28 psi safely with a narrow band.

As for the motor holding boost, i'm ppushing 25-30psi daily on my stock rod 6 bolt motor (used aftermarket pistons from my old block in this one, but stock rods)

It's all about the tune, that's what really holds a motor together under these extreme pressures/useage conditions...again = no narrow band.

An EIII16G can get you in the 11's but you better drive the car for all it's worth..I mean beat it like a 2 stroke dirtbike on race day.


EAgle H beams and some good pistons are going to hold up longer to more abuse, and possibly hold up to a few more tuning mistakes than the stock stuff would. There's been several stock blocks pushed into the 11's and even a few in the 10's IIRC, So the motor can take it. IT's up to you to put it together with the right tune and combo of parts to extract the power and keep it alive.

And if by "stock sounding" you mean sounding like a stock eclipse on stock exhaust...forget it. You'll never pump enough air through a muffler system that quiet to make enough power from a 4 banger to run 11's or posibly even 12's.... IF you mean just sound like another eclipse with a fart cannon on it, well they all pretty much sound that way...one thing i truely don't like about my car

 

[indy1g]

would it be a safe bet then to go with stock rods aftermarket pistons and DSMlink and tune safely or would you just go with the rods also?

The reason im asking is.. if i dont go with the rods.. i can put that money elsewhere.. i.e. head port and polish etc.


And by stock sounding i mean.. i dont want the loud BOV and the lopey cam idle.. i guess i can handle the 4 banger cannon.. but i will be looking into the 3" quiet exhausts.. ill probably put in a bullet muffler with the muffler/tip ill also be going with the black painted FMIC with the wire mesh covering it all.. the goal = total sleeper.

 

[turboglenn]

YOu could get away with stock rods. They are good to 400 - 450HP, So they would hold up to a eIII16g's airflow.

AS for cams and their sound. I have 264/272 cams and you can't even tell it from the idle or anything (again, all worked out in the tune) even 272/272's can be hidden by a good tune at idle. So you could get away with quite a bit and still have a good sleeper. Remember, most people can't even tell anything about hi-po 4 bangers from the sounds, just that it has "the fart cannon curse"

My main goal for years was as a sleeper and i pulled it off with a stand alone and a t3/4 hybrid turbo and no one ever really seemed to know what they were looking at, it was almost saddening..I'd tell people, "I'll run you with my MAF disconnected" and no one ever caught on, it was pretty ridiculous the things you can tell ricer kids or un-knowing v8 guys and have them believe you .."nah, it's mainly stock...it just seems to run better WOT with out a MAF meter" i don't know how many times i've used that line and left people scratching their heads...they didn't even notice the GM sensors in my engine and the 3bar MAP on the firewall hidden behind the intake manifold

 

[indy1g]

Thanks for the fast replies. if, in the future i were to upgrade to a 20g i would almost HAVE to replace the rods?

Basicly im looking for the most cost effective solution... as per vs downtime.

Pistons gasket kit machine work 1 month down

Pistons rods gasket kit machine work 1.5 down

See what im gettin at?


And i wont have to worry about those questions... I have a simple no look policy thats when i get "ricer" comments... until i pull off the launch then its "bastard"