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Rebuild Route

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chrisb33

15+ Year Contributor
137
0
Feb 20, 2008
Manila, Asia
I have a spare N/A 6bolt long block sitting in the garage right now. should i use this instead of my 1g 7bolt block? As far as i know, the crank and rods of N/A is the same for turbo. And i know also that i can use my 2g pistons on 6bolt rods (requires machining) and would even be better because of higher compression.

my question is, will all my other parts from the existing engine like oil pump, water pump, fit on to the 6bolt block? What other work will be involved? Or should i just stick with rebuilding my 1g 7bolt block?

N/A's dont have knock sensors right? Can i install a knock sensor on a N/A block?

Im planning to change my clutch kit, flywheel, bearings, studs anyway so those parts wont be a problem coz i have yet to place an order for them.

your expert advice and inputs would be greatly appreciated.

thanks.

chris b
 
The only issue is you wont have the oil squirters, not a big issue and you wont have the hole on the back for the knock sensor. I think you can have that drilled though. I would use a 6 bolt since the 1g rods are a lot stronger.
 
The only issue is you wont have the oil squirters, not a big issue and you wont have the hole on the back for the knock sensor. I think you can have that drilled though. I would use a 6 bolt since the 1g rods are a lot stronger.

Yeah me too. Can i still transfer my Oil, water pump, and what else? from my 7bolt block to the 6bolt N/A? Thannks.

chris b
 
You could use the 7 bolt pump but you have to drill out your block. I have no experience with it or dont know much about it so i'd gather some info before you attempt it. It's not for sure that it would save you money in the long run. It's not guaranteed that your 7 bolt will crankwalk. I've had to 2.0 7 bolts with 100,000 miles on them with no signs of crankwalk. Now i have a 7 bolt 2.4 which i've never heard of crankwalking
 
I'm still kinda 50-50 on the route im going to take. Sigh, especially the 1g 7bolt that i have is came from japan...plus i also agree that it isnt a general rule that 7 bolts are really prone to crank walking. On the other hand, i believe that 6 bolts have been proven to be more "protected" from crank walk. With a limited working budget on my engine rebuild, im still not sure which route to take!!! :cry::beatentodeath:
 
Bringing this thread back to life before i order my short block parts. I just want to confirm which route to go.

-What i have now: 1g JDM 7-bolt 4g63 Turbo engine (not so good condition.)
-I have a N/T 1g 6 bolt long block lying around the garage
-i've spent the last 7 hours searching and reading on this forum about converting n/a block and be used for turbo application.
-problem is that most posts are dated very old and most who tried then only can boost up to 14-18psi max.
-i know most who have answered on this post (i as well) lean towards using the 6bolt N/A block.

***what i failed to mention in this post is that im shooting for 400whp.***

-i have meth injection, dsmlink, brand new OEM 2g pistons and rings, hx35, 510cc fuel injectors, walbro 255, upgraded fuel lines, AFPR, FMIC.
-dont have the money to go forged internals
-about to buy:
**clevite main and rod bearings
**ARP main, rod, and head studs
**clutch kit and lightened flywheel
**850cc FIC injectors
**cams, valves, and retainers

i have a few questions just to make sure before i buy the above mentioned parts coz most are 6 or 7 bolt specific:

1. I've read that with forged internals you dont need oil squitters. Is it really necessary if i dont have them squitters using OEM 2g turbo pistons and 1g rods?

2. can i boost around 25-30 psi with the N/T block? (i do have meth injection.)

3. Is the N/A fuel rail the same with turbo fuel rail? if not, can i use my 2g fuel rail on the 6bolt?

Either block i choose will go to the machine shop to be rebuilt.

Please feel free to chime in. Thoughts, experience, theories, ideas. Thanks a lot!

chris b
 
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