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2G Best higher amp replacement alternator options for 2G

Posted by LSM, Nov 25, 2020

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  1. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    I hope I'm posting this question in the right section! I will admit I'm not great with doing that so I apologize if I'm putting this in the wrong place!

    I know this question has been posted several times in the past, but the most recent thread I can seem to find is from early 2017. Can somebody help me figure out what the best replacement alternator for a 2G with higher amperage and possibly even a 14v or 16v that is currently available? Or a few different ones maybe? Any info will be appreciated!

    I did find one that was 140 amp and was switchable from 12 to 14 to 16 volts and it says its "Denso Style".....it has been many years since I've been in the DSM game, weren't the 2G alternators from the factory Denso?
     

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  2. Widgmaster

    Widgmaster Supporting VIP

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  3. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    Once you over 100A you neex to redo all the charging wiring as you will not be able to move 140A safely without risk of burning the wire up.
     

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  4. Widgmaster

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  5. Vegas Smith

    Vegas Smith Proven Member

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    I've run the 120a and 200a motor city reman saturn alternators and have been pretty happy. You just need to upgrade your power feed line and that's really about it..oh and rewire your alternator plug. Very easy.
     

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  6. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    No poo huh?! Awesome, thank you for the info! I will definitely check them out, but also thank you for confirming the stock Denso thing because now in worst case that would mean that the adjustable voltage 140amp alternator I found should fit with no problem!
     

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  7. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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  8. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    Yeah, that won't be an issue. I had already fully planned to upgrade the battery and alternator power and ground wires since I already have a guy who is making me a 100% fully custom engine bay wiring harness. I figured if the stock wiring harness was ripped out and is being replaced and upgraded, why not do the same with the main power wires while I'm at it?! I already picked up both the power and ground wires for the alt and battery.....since the battery will be somewhere in the hatch, I went ahead and picked up about 40 feet total of each + and - in high end, full spec, 1/0 awg 100% oxygen free stranded copper wire cables with 4704 copper strands in each cable. Realistically, they're a bit of an overkill, but they're some damn nice wires that can support a very high voltage and amperage current very easily! Honestly, the wiring I'm using could probably support 2 or 3 140amp alternators without issue hahaha!
     

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  9. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    I need to go to sleep, but I will definitely take a look at the link tomorrow! Thanks again!
     

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  10. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    Oh really? See I had seen several posts over the last several months where people were saying they had been using the Saturn alternators and that they were really happy with them! Do the Saturn alternators seem to last a long time as well? The only potential down side I'm seeing to the Saturn alts is the standard voltage. I will be running fast bags on all 4 sides, a fairly large shot nitrous system, a CO2 cryo cooling system, a very nice complete stock speaker and tweeter replacement stereo system with the possibility of a couple of additional mid range drivers and two, possibly 3 subwòofers and 3 amps for where I'm at with it right now.....but another amp could potentially be added, then the normal crap like the AEM stand alone, the variable flow fuel pump and variable flow FPR, then the set of electical outlets/plugs/connectors I am adding inside to cover a wide variety of electrical components to be able to be plugged in if and when I want, and I'm also considering making a hard wire connector to connect my Ipad so I can see any and all the diagnostics at any given time......I know I'm forgetting something else, but what I'm getting at is that I will have a whole buttload of electrical components in my car once I get it all put back together!! I'm thinking it would probably be worth getting either a 14v or 16v alternator and then I can use regulators where needed to keep 12v components at only 12v......but a slightly higher voltage output could be beneficial to my setup for sure......If I remember correctly, the Saturns all had 12v batteries and alternators right? I'm pretty sure they did....which again isn't the end of the world, I'm just thinking I might wanna go with a 14v or 16v if possible.....I don't know, too many friggin options! Haha Thanks for the input tho!
     

    255  1

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  11. Vegas Smith

    Vegas Smith Proven Member

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    Yeah, the Saturn cs130 alternators that the DSMs use are 12 v. I have no idea how 14v+ systems work so I couldn't help with that.
     

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  12. Widgmaster

    Widgmaster Supporting VIP

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    Another option ... add a battery isolator with dual 12 volt battery's .... I`v heard of a 16 volt battery but using this ..you risk the chance of blowing fuses . Lights ...Gauges .. Radio... there all meant to run on 12 volts .Moving to 14 or 16 volt alternator or battery you risk burning up your wiring harness .

    Read this ............................................https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015...ings-you-should-know-about-16-volt-batteries/

    Battery Isolator ..................................https://rvpartshop.ca/product/batte...4999168398662&utm_content=PLA| RV Maintenance

    Why the need for THREE sub woofers and THREE amps .... one high power mono amp and sub would be sufficient but to each there own ..

    Another option ...Anti Gravity Battery .. These batteries have built in technology so your battery will never go dead ...Make sure you are sitting down when you read the price of these suckers..
    Anti Gravity..... https://antigravitybatteries.com/?m...ine=21006&post_type=product&action=vpf-search..

    Please think this through bro... I would hate to see your ride go up in flames...





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  13. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    Oh ueah, there would need to be a lot of voltage regulators and what not, but it's actually relatively easy to do! I would just add them close to the battery connection and add one for each "branch" of wiring for certain components.....that way the voltage would be dropped to 12V right where it would split off to those components keeping them at the correct voltage, you know what I'm saying? I mean, yeah it's kind of a pain in the arse, but when you really think about it it's not that hard to do! As far as the wiring harness, not sure if you read one of my replies from this morning where I jad explained that the engine bay wiring harness has been remkved and a new completely custom wiring harness is in the process of being made, so it will be much easier to know exactly what is going where and keep from frying the harness like you said! Then as for the stereo, right now I only have one 1500w RMS mono amp for the subs, but these days most mono amps actually have 2 subwoofer outlets so I can wire in both subs for 750w RMS each, then if I decide to get the JL W7 13.5" subwoofer.....if I can find and buy the one that runs at 1ohm and also operates at 1500w RMS then I will just switch to that one sub, but for now I have two subs. I also have a 3rd sub of the exact same kind as the two I'm putting in for now, but it's only a SVC instead of dual, so thats why I said possibly 3 subs. If I can't sell it and make a little bit of money back then I might just throw it in. The other two amps, one is for the mids in the doors and the other is for the seperate tweeters. Seperating the mids and highs on different amps just allows for more precise control and better sound in the end.....so thats why there are currently 3 amps. I have never heard of that kind of battery, I will check out the link you sent in a few minutes! I have already picked up a really beefy main battery and a secondary battery that I haven't decided if I'm gonna use yet or not instead of capacitors for the stereo. The main battery is an XS D6500 and that should provide plenty of juice on start up and whenever needed, and the secondary battery is a little XS PS240A, thats the one I haven't decided on using as a replacement for capacitors or not.....or I could even use it and also a smaller capacitor, I don't know yet....too many options that I need to look in to! I do appreciate the concern tho, but I will be making sure that the wiring is done correctly and properly grounded and also fused properly wherever it is needed.....also fire extinguishers that are easily accessible, I'm not taking any chances! I completely agree with you, with how much money and time I will have put into this car when it's done and back up and running, the last damn thing I would need is for it to catch fire and burn everything up!!
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  14. LSM

    LSM Proven Member

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    Honestly I'm not super familiar with them either, but it's just something else to learn about and get familiar with and it can help a lot down the road ya know! Thats the kind of thing where you just want to make sure you spend at least a few hours reading up on it and becoming at least fairly familiar with exactly how it works with your mostly 12v system BEFORE you connect the battery and start the car and blow everything up! Hahaha
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  15. Widgmaster

    Widgmaster Supporting VIP

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    Obviously you know what your doing ...Looks like your doin just fine ..
     

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