Best bet?

[cory51191]

If I were to aim for a 350-400hp build, would it be a bad choice to stay with the 4g63 thats already in the car?...the stock 7-bolt.. I just have a feeling I'd get crankwalk because how much talk there is about it.

 

[BLINKY619]

any car can get crankwalk but 7 bolt's have been know to crankwalk.... thats why i switched to a 6 bolt swap...! it all depepends on the builder if the motor is built right and give it proper maintenance then you should be good... my suggestion (remember its just my opinion) ill look for a 6 bolt

 

[cory51191]

any car can get crankwalk but 7 bolt's have been know to crankwalk.... thats why i switched to a 6 bolt swap...! it all depepends on the builder if the motor is built right and give it proper maintenance then you should be good... my suggestion (remember its just my opinion) ill look for a 6 bolt

Thats what I was thinking. But I've heard a lot that the problem with crankwalk is the bearings. Any idea if this is really what it is, I can only find theorys.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

I wouldnt worry about crankwalk. It is not as common as people make it out to be. There are plenty of 7 bolt motors making big numbers and not walking the crank. Build it up!

 

[BLINKY619]

well this is what you can do (just my opinion) get a 6 bolt and just build it aside it will help you time wise and money wise...! i would start putting goodies on the 7 bolt wile its still running and start building a 6 bolt aside and that will help you by taking your time and choosing your parts wisely so you dont have to be stranded trying to hurry up and get your car running.!!!! just my 0.2 cents..

 

[2slow4now]

Its all in what your comfortable with and what your willing to spend. I had extra cash so I looked for a 6 bolt and doing the conversion. Do what you can to solve some of the theories if it makes you feel better. My stock 7 bolt walked after 140k miles. Why? Old ? Worn? contamination? I did push start it a couple times. HHMMM It lasted 140k so it wasn't bad bearings or crank.

I think mine was a squirter problem (sticking open starving the thrust bearing) and low oil pressure at a push start. Only my opinion so if my crank didn't get into my block I might have went back 7 bolt.

 

[mitsukid124]

build it till it walks, then swap to a 6 bolt.

never hurts to try, seeing there is many 7 bolts that haven't walked.

 

[cory51191]

well this is what you can do (just my opinion) get a 6 bolt and just build it aside it will help you time wise and money wise...! i would start putting goodies on the 7 bolt wile its still running and start building a 6 bolt aside and that will help you by taking your time and choosing your parts wisely so you dont have to be stranded trying to hurry up and get your car running.!!!! just my 0.2 cents..

I've actually had that idea in my head. Just put the bolt-ons on the 7-bolt and upgrade the fuel system while I'm building a 6-bolt on the side.

 

[BLINKY619]

I've actually had that idea in my head. Just put the bolt-ons on the 7-bolt and upgrade the fuel system while I'm building a 6-bolt on the side.

just go with what your comfortable with....

 

[DECODER22]

350-400 is a pretty achievable goal for the motor do a leak down test and compression test if everything looks good drop in some arp's and a mls headgasket and get a evo16g or hx35 and the rest of the supporting mods you could always just jump and go to a 60-1

 

[cory51191]

build it till it walks, then swap to a 6 bolt.

never hurts to try, seeing there is many 7 bolts that haven't walked.

Yeah I just don't wanna damage any internals if it walks. I'll just build a 6-bolt on the side, I'll probably get it ported while its out too. I'd do it myself but I don't have experience. It would be cheaper to build it myself but I was thinking about buying a Frankenstein 6-bolt (DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!) to save the trouble of sending it to get ported, hot tanked, etc. and it will come with aftermarket internals.

And I'll add these while the 7-bolt is still in.
Intake, gauges, bov, boost controller, turbo-back exhaust, DSMlink, upgrade the fuel system. Probably get a new turbo setup and break it in on the 7-bolt then do the swap.


Anyone reccomend places to get a block machined, hot tanked and a GOOD port?

350-400 is a pretty achievable goal for the motor do a leak down test and compression test if everything looks good drop in some arp's and a mls headgasket and get a evo16g or hx35 and the rest of the supporting mods you could always just jump and go to a 60-1

I was thinking HX35, or a 20g from jusmx141.