Bent valves

[4G Power]

Alright so after my car jumped time and bent all the intake valves, I've finally decided to hold on to her and put a new head on instead of parting ways. My mods are listed in my profile, but basically I'm running a greddy 18g on ~20psi, stock block, dsmlink, etc. I'm not doing anything major, so I'd like this rebuild to be decently priced. I'm going to be getting a used head as well. (for now)

Would a OEM composite headgasket + a pair of ARP head studs, oem timing belt and tensioner be all I need for the job, or are there any better alternatives?

 

[91 GSX]

Sorry to hear about your timing belt issue. An oem head gasket and timing belt would be fine for a budget head swap with an ARP stud kit. And as you said you would, make sure to use a new tensioner. I would also recommend replacing your water pump while it's apart if your unsure of it's age and condition.

 

[gho5tone]

You could just use Fel-Pro composite head gasket instead of OEM to save a few bucks. Works just as well.

Look into contitech Timing belt. Heard they make the timing belt for Mitsubishi to save a few more bucks.

Depending when your last major tune up done and condition of parts. You could just slap on new gasket and belt plus arps and get it running real quick.

 

[4G Power]

I actually replaced the water pump ~2000 miles ago, so I should be good there. I'll look into the Fel-Pro gasket and contitech belt as well, thanks for the help.

 

[ricktb]

im going through this as well.. i thought id need just a couple parts to get it all back together but after some careful thought I compiled this list of all the parts i ended up needing. ok maybe i went overboard a little

water pump + gasket
timing belt
balance shaft belt
ps belt
ac belt
alt belt
new valves, retainers, keepers, springs, and revised lifters 3g oem mitsu
valve guides * 16
kept the rockers, they are expensive and can be changed one by one at any point in the future without taking the whole thing apart, plus they were in great shape
tensioner pulley
idler pulley
hydraulic tensioner
balance shaft tensioner
tensioner tool from extreme psi
water pipe (rusted out)and coolant hoses (their old and worn and some are impossible to reach
new timing covers upper and lower, brittle and fell apart upon disassembly
new camshaft position sensor, broke upon disassembly
cam shaft oil seals *2
valve stem seals * 16
balance shaft oil seal
front crank oil seal
head gasket oem
valve cover gasket oem
arp head studs
misc other parts for trans removal and clutch job later
misc supplies

thats about it for now. note: the oem timing belt is a nice piece very well cut and looks great. If you get a new head your saving yourself a ton of time and money, for now, it still wont be like new. also bought two clutch forks by mistake anyone need one? Hope to have it all back together in a week or two. Spend about 1300 on parts 400 on shipping and budgeted 700 on machine shop labour (CAN). Yea wayy more than my original 1500 budget. They replaced the guides, regrind the seats, pressure tested, mag tested for cracks and reassembled. After this I hope to be able to reach my 350 HP goal with a few more supporting mods.

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[Purex2c]

What do the pistons look like from the valve's? Any high spots could heat up and cause detonation.

 

[gsxdragger]

I was going to say def check your pistons!

 

[4G Power]

Took a few quick pics of the pistons; there are some marks from the valves, they were bent pretty bad.

imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer

 

[killercolt]

cheapest solution:

-Oem timing belt or Gate timing belt. No junk timing belt should be use.
-Oem timing belt tensioner or a Napa brand is okay.
-Check the idler and tensioner pulleys for excessive noise and play
-Get a set of standard stainless valves from Engrbld on ebay. They are better than any brand I seen for dsm. Get some lapping compound and lap them in yourself. Use the hose on the stem method with a drill. It is fast and very effective. Probably better than any machine shop job I seen.
-Get a spring valve spring compressor for 75 bux
-Order the valve stem seals from AWDMotorsport on ebay or directly from them.
-Get some razor blades
-Get a Felpro composite or an oem composite gasket. Order a straight edge or bubble level with a precision straight edge from Harbor Freight because it is as precise as my snap on straight edge and way cheaper. If the decks on the head and block are flat, consider using a Cometic head gasket with copper spray. It is not much more than a Felpro or Oem composite and provide a lot more protection against gasket blow out or crack from detonation.
-ARP head studs are a must.

Make sure you check the valve guides for cracks or excessive play.
Make sure you keep the trash from falling into the cylinder and other crucial holes.