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2G Battery Relocation

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Denver GSX

Proven Member
33
0
Jan 11, 2013
Denver, Colorado
So I purchased a battery box that way I could move my battery to the trunk and then after doing that I got the necessary battery cables long enough so I could run power from the front to the back of the car. I figured I would just leave the grounds from the engine bay and attach them to something else, then do the negative from battery and attach it to the body somewhere. After changing everything over and getting it all done I have absolutely no power.
 
The wires Im using are thicker than the stock ones that were on it by far. I will try to find a new spot to ground everything to, hopefully that is the problem. I dont know how anything else would have changed in that short of a time frame
 
Okay, for a battery cable run the whole length of the car, 2awg is what size of power cable you should have. With the battery in the trunk (mounted correctly) your gonna wanna go 2gauge cable off of the positive post of the battery. The 2gauge right off the positive post should only be about 12 inches long and go through a 150amp breaker (absolutley do not go straight off the battery to the front of your car, your askin for trouble) after the 2gauge goes through the breaker it can now run the length of the car. The ground, has to be as big if not bigger than the power supply. So have at least two 2gauge wires grounding off the negative post onto the frame of the trunk of you car (yes sand paint off at grounding points) so now you have battery mounted nice in trunk, solid ground system in trunk, power supply goes through a 150amp breaker/fuse, NOW, we can talk about the front of your car.
The 2gauge power that runs the whole length of your car now safely pops through your fire wall. All of the power wires that stock touched your positive battery post need to be in a power distribution box that has a insulated protector cover (these can be bought at any boat shop or stereo shop) the stock battery wires are now in a buss bar power distrubution box, all you gotta do now is hook up the 2awg hot wire from your trunk into this distribution block. The factory ground wire up there connects off the bellhousing to once was your negative battery posr there, you can now touch that ground to the frame (agin sand off paint)
Use nice lugs, dont just hillbilly frey the wire and stuff it under a bolt head.
Good-luck
 
Where would I go about buying this 150amp fuse that you speak of? You are honestly the first person to tell me all of these things. Everyone else just said to hook it up and not to worry that it would be just fine. I appreciate all of your input
 
An inline fuse is a good idea when running that much cable for anything. Go to a car audio shop and they should be able to give you something decent at a good price.
 
You can also get these parts from amazon.com. That is where I got mine from and the prices were much better than the local car stereo shop. I started that project, but have yet to finish it. I'm going to run 0 gauge wire back to front and I'm using an Optima battery because I'm not putting into a box.
 
I like the advise dsmcurse gave. I am considering moving the battery myself. The extra room in the engine bay would be nice, and it should help out the fuel pump voltage as well. What do you think about the voltage drop with the already weak alternator being even further from the battery, or by using 2 gauge its already compensated for? I think I will also go with the Galant 90 amp alternator, but seems like the Saturn piece is the hot ticket. What do you think? Sorry for changing the subject.
 
You have to have a fuseable link or some type of breaker protecting that positive hot wire. With the battery in the trunk, you only want your initial power wire to be about 10-12 inches then go into a 150amp breaker. THEN, you can run it long the whole length of the car.

If you got in a car wreck or got tee-boned and didnt have a "insurance policy" on your hot wire than that positive wire could get pinched in the wrinkled metal of a car crash, the wire would be archin, and poppin, and welding off all over the place. SPELLS BURN ME TO THE GROUND! And if you were hurt or trapped in the car with a wire startin fire you could litterely die from not installing a 40dollar car part.

150 fuse or breaker will instantly cut connection in the event of a over load or crash. 150amp is the ideal size bevause it will cover your alt, starter, fuel pump re-wire and what ever else you got.

Please do your self a favor, install a breaker and do it correctly. In the very worst case scenario of a car crash the differance between you burning to death in a car fire or not will be from a 40dollar car part from napa
 
A distribution block would also be a good idea. Then put the circuit breaker by the relocated battery.
 
Can anyone provide a picture of their relocated battery?

I guess you relocate it to the spare tire area? How and what do you use to secure it down?
 
Mine:
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You can still keep your subs with a little cuttin.;)

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Hmm, this has got me thinking. I've relocated my battery to the rear and has been running just fine without a breaker, however after just reading the post above, I think il throw one in there.
It does sound to me like it is Definately a grounding fault, ensure there is no paint on the grounding point your using
 
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