2G Battery Relocation

[TurboTyler97]

Has anyone relocated their battery this way. I plan on running 0 gauge wire both positive and negative from the trunk to the engine bay and they will connect to a plate with studs i built and the stock positve and negative cable will connect to the studs too. I tried to search but i havent seen one done like this. i will have pictures of it done this weekend just wanted to seee if anyone had any tips on this way. thanks in advance.

 

[LarryJoe]

I ran 4 gauge power wire from my bay to my trunk. And just grounded it in the trunk. Take your grounds in the bay and bolt them to the firewall.

 

[weep87]

2ga All the way from the engine bay to the trunk, ground from battery to the trunk floor. under the hood i bolted all the power together on a junction block.

 

[97tal]

Distribution block in front and at least a 150amp circuit breaker in back with battery.

 

[Paintballaa5]

Don't forget AT LEAST a 150 amp circuit breaker 10-12 inches from the positive battery post. Wouldn't want to do all that work just to burn your car to the ground would ya?

 

[TurboTyler97]

Whats the purpose of a circuit breaker going to do for me??

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/457598-battery-relocation.html

 

[gophishy10]

Whats the purpose of a circuit breaker going to do for me??

Is this a serious question? Do a google image search for "eclipse burnt to the ground" for an idea of why you need a circuit breaker.

And it's much easier to just ground your battery in the trunk instead of running ground wire all the way to the engine bay also.

 

[finesse49ers]

Is this a serious question? Do a google image search for "eclipse burnt to the ground" for an idea of why you need a circuit breaker.

I'm gonna do this right now!

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Is this a serious question? Do a google image search for "eclipse burnt to the ground" for an idea of why you need a circuit breaker.

And it's much easier to just ground your battery in the trunk instead of running ground wire all the way to the engine bay also.

Agreed on the former, but for the latter its a good idea to run a ground front and back.

This is because of the way the unibody/chassis is constructed. Poor conductivity across the whole car.

 

[dsmcurse]

with my battery in the trunk (of course 150amp breaker also) i ran two wires to trunk ground, and when i sent my positive hot wire up the whole length of the car i also sent a ground wire with it. my hot wire off the battery goes into my bay and hooks up at a protected and isolated distrubution block, the additional ground comes off my negative batt post in the trunk and ends up at my engine grounded on a tranny/engine bell-housing bolt.

one of those ground wires runs the length of the car and hooks up at the engine

 

[duckie1098]

I have a 4 fuse block on my firewall that my main power wire goes into, but for added measure I think I may move it closer to the battery.

 

[T is for TURBO]

and when i sent my positive hot wire up the whole length of the car i also sent a ground wire with it.

Just out of curiosity? Why did you run a ground all the way to the front?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Just out of curiosity? Why did you run a ground all the way to the front?

Ahem...

This is because of the way the unibody/chassis is constructed. Poor conductivity across the whole car.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Ahem...

Haha. I actually wrote that question much earlier in the day, just never it the submit button until just recently. I should hit the refresh button more often

 

[gophishy10]

Agreed on the former, but for the latter its a good idea to run a ground front and back.

This is because of the way the unibody/chassis is constructed. Poor conductivity across the whole car.

I didn't know this. I have mine grounded just in the back (where my rear selt belts used to be bolted in) and have never had a problem. Maybe I'll run a line to the front too. What are some issues people have had if they only ground in the trunk?

 

[dsmcurse]

i ran a ground wire from the negative battery post in the trunk up to my engine because thats how it is stock. factory ground wire grounds into the engine/tranny bell housing bolt, and comes up to the negative battery post. so i just stock with how they wanted it from the factory. the negative post is directly connected touching the engine. so that was the number one reason i did it like that.

the next major reason is for the fact that the body (like earlier mentioned) is poor to conduct the whole length of the car. the peices of the car are just stamped together by robot caliper style "pinch welds" and then a robot (maybe it was a person back then?) goops over all the body connection points with a weather proofing type of silicone.

so with my battery in the trunk mounted nice, and a 150 breaker only ten inches away from the positive post i then sent my hot wire AND my ground wire up to the engine bay. i have a full wire tuck so my master fuse box panel from under my hood is mounted in the glove box my distribution block to distribute out all my power is also hidden up under in the glove box. my necsisary hot wires AND my ground wire now punch through the fire wall in a safe non-chaffing kind of way and hook up at obvious points at the engine.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I didn't know this. I have mine grounded just in the back (where my rear selt belts used to be bolted in) and have never had a problem. Maybe I'll run a line to the front too. What are some issues people have had if they only ground in the trunk?

Greater voltage drop.

I should qualify this though - The issues in unibody construction I am referring to are all the corrosion coatings, pinch and spot welds, and industrial adhesives they use in assembly. Now in a modern, late model car that has not been exposed to the elements I would wager it would come out about even between a chassis ground and a dedicated negative run of some very large OFC from the relocated battery back up front.

I opt to run both, I should point out.

A 20 year old, weather/rusted DSM is going to have a greater resistance/voltage drop under load than say my 2008 Honda.

My DSM has a ton of high draw items in it and I run multiple chassis grounds and 2 dedicated runs which you can see laid out in the pictures posted in the link earlier.

Heres more food for thought, worth the 5 minutes:
Ground to the Chassis or Use Cable - Which Works Better? - YouTube

The conversation that spawned this test:
Ground to the Chassis or Run a Ground Cable? CE Auto Electric Supply Partners with D'Amore Engineering to answer - Video on Pg 5! - CE Auto Electric Supply – Providing Solutions to all of your Automotive Electrical Needs - SMD Forum

 

[gophishy10]

Greater voltage drop.

I should qualify this though - The issues in unibody construction I am referring to are all the corrosion coatings, pinch and spot welds, and industrial adhesives they use in assembly. Now in a modern, late model car that has not been exposed to the elements I would wager it would come out about even between a chassis ground and a dedicated negative run of some very large OFC from the relocated battery back up front.

I opt to run both, I should point out.

A 20 year old, weather/rusted DSM is going to have a greater resistance/voltage drop under load than say my 2008 Honda.

My DSM has a ton of high draw items in it and I run multiple chassis grounds and 2 dedicated runs which you can see laid out in the pictures posted in the link earlier.

Heres more food for thought, worth the 5 minutes:
Ground to the Chassis or Use Cable - Which Works Better? - YouTube

The conversation that spawned this test:
Ground to the Chassis or Run a Ground Cable? CE Auto Electric Supply Partners with D'Amore Engineering to answer - Video on Pg 5! - CE Auto Electric Supply – Providing Solutions to all of your Automotive Electrical Needs - SMD Forum

Very good info and good to know. I'm definitely going to run a wire up to the front to avoid any problems. Thanks for clarifying this.