420A Battery relocation

[Cfrakes]

So I got a 1998 eclipse GS and I'd like to set up the battery in the back. I have a sub system set up and the system runs 1000 watts so I already have a 0 gauge wire ran from the front to the back. I'm just trying to figure out the best and most safe way to do this. If I understand correctly I should set up a bus bar in the front to connect the power wires and bolt the engine grounds to the body. Then I should run a circuit breaker in the back with the battery just in case. So here are my main questions. Will my system run efficiently still with my sub system in mind or will running it in the back cause issues, what amp circuit breaker should I run with it, and lastly for the sub amplifier I was going to run a small amount of 0 gauge straight from the battery 2 feet to the amplifier and then run another 0 gauge from the battery to the front to power everything else and receive charge from the alternator is this the best route? Also I have a optima yellowtop DH6 battery set up for this if that matters. Thanks

 

[CKOPOCT]

What you are proposing will work fine. Using the Optima Yellow is good because it is a sealed battery - no venting necessary. If you decide to go back to a stanxard battery you'll need to enclose it in a box that vents outside the trunk (not hard since you could use one of the body plug holes, but plumbing it may look awkward unless you do a solid trunk mod to hide the vent). I made a similar modification to mine and used the billet aluminum battery hold down for Optima batteries.

As to the circuit breaker question, can't really answer that without knowing the power demands on your system. Your amp, I assume, is being wired independently and so the manufacturer should have either supplied or recommended a breaker/fuse for it. As for the rest of the car, factory wiring and fuse boxes should be sufficient unless you added additional power draws like a massive light show, interior entertainment system, etc. Zero gauge wire from the battery to the power bus is probably overkill, but it won't hurt anything.

 

[Cfrakes]

What you are proposing will work fine. Using the Optima Yellow is good because it is a sealed battery - no venting necessary. If you decide to go back to a stanxard battery you'll need to enclose it in a box that vents outside the trunk (not hard since you could use one of the body plug holes, but plumbing it may look awkward unless you do a solid trunk mod to hide the vent). I made a similar modification to mine and used the billet aluminum battery hold down for Optima batteries.

As to the circuit breaker question, can't really answer that without knowing the power demands on your system. Your amp, I assume, is being wired independently and so the manufacturer should have either supplied or recommended a breaker/fuse for it. As for the rest of the car, factory wiring and fuse boxes should be sufficient unless you added additional power draws like a massive light show, interior entertainment system, etc. Zero gauge wire from the battery to the power bus is probably overkill, but it won't hurt anything.

Ok awesome thanks for the response. So I had seen a couple builds that set it up so the wire from the battery goes straight to a little circuit breaker then goes to the bus bar I believe that circuit breaker is just extra safety just in case if I'm assuming correctly. So I don't have anything special set up and I don't really plan on any extra aftermarket except maybe headlights. If I wanted to add a circuit breaker just for peace of mind do you happen to know what amp it should be rated for the stock setup? Thanks