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Basic MAFT Questions [merged] GM MAF Translator

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gotboost55

20+ Year Contributor
132
1
Jan 14, 2003
Basic MAFT Questions
What is it?
What does it do?
Where does it go?
Where does the xxxx color wire go?
Can I vent with a MAFT?
What MAF can I use?
Can I use a 2g MAFT with a 1g?
Can I use a 1g MAFT with a 2g?


Sorry guys !but am not really sure about this one.What does the MAFT really do and is it a good buy?thanks
 
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/gm2.htm

Here is a write up on a "samurai" method, fullthrottletech.com also has a few addtional notes. Search samurai in their forums for these little notes. Now like speedy talon stated. This will only work with 2.0x (it will be written in the bigger IC on the MAFT CCA in silver or white paint). With V1.3 (again written in white or will be BLANK, early versions were shipped blank, all upgrades including the beta 2.0x were written on), will not work. V1.3 was specific for 1G and 2G/3KG's. I am sure that only differnce between the 2 was the base values for injector idle, but if your case warrans, contact one of the admins at fullthrottletech. I am sure this has came up before.

Incase you do not have these:
Install instructions for V2.0x http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=894
Install instructions for V1.3 http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=642
 
DO NOT remove that maft honey comp, its there for a reason to prevent things from flying in there... it wont be MUCH of a difference if you remove it, trust me keep it on.....

as for datalogger PM if you need one, i have one forsale...

-az-
 
You can straighten that out a bit. Try a drill bit that just fits pushed through from the other side.
 
I live in Fort Wayne, Indiana where the summers are hot and the winters cold. I, unfortunately:sosad:, am a little lazy. I have seen some buddies of mine play with the GM MAF translator for hours. I am wanting to run a 300WHP setup on my 91 GST, would a GM MAFT be a must, or could I get away with a 2G MAF? I do not want to keep my stock MAF knowing that is starts to miss hertz when you get to point when you need enough airflow to accomodate 300WHP. Can somebody enlighten me?:dsm:
 
For your requirements the 2G Maf should be fine. If you want to vent the BOV, not worry about upgrading later, have abiltiy to "tune", then go the the route of the maft. I got mine and like it, but I use DSMlink and a GM delphi 3.3 bar sensor to tune it in, since it was a good deal off.
 
From what I've read, a 2G MAF is good for about 50 - 52lbs/min. So IMO unless you've got a turbo capable of hitting those #'s, no reason to get a MAFT.

Or, if you have DSMlink, you can use the fake MAF option. Unhacked 2G MAF has gone 10.83 at 133mph using that feature.
 
Dark_Horse said:
From what I've read, a 2G MAF is good for about 50 - 52lbs/min. So IMO unless you've got a turbo capable of hitting those #'s, no reason to get a MAFT.

Or, if you have DSMlink, you can use the fake MAF option. Unhacked 2G MAF has gone 10.83 at 133mph using that feature.

I think I can hit my benchmark with an EVO III 16G, some porting, appropriate supporting mods, and some tuning. I planned to use DSMLink, but I don't know much about it yet. So what's up with the "fake MAF" option? So if I get a 2G MAF for my 1Ga, I'd be alright?:dsm:
 
nightracer91 said:
I think I can hit my benchmark with an EVO III 16G, some porting, appropriate supporting mods, and some tuning. I planned to use DSMLink, but I don't know much about it yet. So what's up with the "fake MAF" option? So if I get a 2G MAF for my 1Ga, I'd be alright?:dsm:

There is some wiring involved, but yes, it can work. You will also need a new intake obviously. Have you looked into that yet? www.dejonpowerhouse.com sells intakes for 1g cars using the 2g MAF.

Here is the vfaq for the 2g MAF in a 1g: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2GMAF-1G.html

Hope that helps :thumb:
 
Bit old thread..but..its fixed.. sold this one and bought another good..same priceLOL and as for Maf T settings..bought DSMlink:rocks: so all my tuning will make threw DSMlink:p
Now Iam waiting for Turbo rebuild kit and some issues with custom ICpipes..welding AL in Czech is BORING:barf: next whole exhaust ..and its finished:rocks:
BTW thank you for your help guys..you´re helpfull

Venca
 
nightracer91 said:
So what's up with the "fake MAF" option? So if I get a 2G MAF for my 1Ga, I'd be alright?:dsm:

Below is taken directly off dsmlink.com from one of twdorris' posts.

"Airflow through an engine can be summarized roughly like so:

flow = boost * RPM * displacement * VE

Basically, you're pressurizing a certain displacement to a given pressure. That will only hold so much air. The VE number is used to adjust that theoretical limit to match the real limit at a given engine RPM. That's all super simplified, of course, but basically that's the way it works. Ideally, you'd have to account for all sorts of other things too like temperature and humidity, but this is all "crude" speed density support after all and seems to end up pretty darn close given that we still have a functioning MAF for all those non-WOT conditions.

So, given boost (absolute manifold pressure really), displacement, and VE, we can calculate airflow.

Both modes of operation start with a working MAF signal. Most of the time, the ECU will just use the MAF signal as is. But once that signal reaches the threshold specified in the MAF compensation dialog, usually 2700hz or so, DSMLink takes a snapshot of what's going on at that time and extrapolates from there on as revs increase.

DSMLink will always record airflow and user-defined VE at the switchover point. Additionally, if you've selected to use the MAP sensor DSMLink records the boost at the clamp time as well. If you have not selected to use a MAP sensor, then DSMLink uses a hardcoded value and sticks with it. Either way works equally well, the later just assumes your boost pressure is staying relatively constant after the switchover point. If it's not, then you run the risk of going lean in the case of boost creep or running rich in the case of boost fall off.

From that point on, the MAF sensor is completely ignored until the calculated airflow drops well below the clamp point. So as your revs and estimated airflow continue to increase, DSMLink will continue to ignore the MAF sensor. Once you've let up on the gas or whatever, the calculated airflow will drop below the clamp point and we'll switch back to using the real MAF data.

The difference between using a MAP sensor and not using one is that with the MAP sensor data fed into the MDP line, DSMLink has a way to fine tune the airflow estimation based on manifold pressure. This is useful in cases where boost might fluctuate a bit after the clamp point. I ran most of the 2002 season without using a MAP sensor at all. But I was running the risk of blowing my motor up if something ever went wrong down the track that caused my boost to start creeping. "


To sum up, unless your boost is held rock steady after you use the fake MAF feature, you should have a MAP sensor to log boost. I'd run a MAP sensor just to be safe.
 
Dark_Horse said:
Below is taken directly off dsmlink.com from one of twdorris' posts.

"Airflow through an engine can be summarized roughly like so:

flow = boost * RPM * displacement * VE

. . . .


To sum up, unless your boost is held rock steady after you use the fake MAF feature, you should have a MAP sensor to log boost. I'd run a MAP sensor just to be safe.

Oh, I see. :dsm:
 
I woudl go with a 3g maf personally. The outlet is the same as a 1g, so you may be able to just plug and play if you have an eprom ecu.
 
Im planning on gettting the MAFT GEN 2 within the next 3-4 weeks and im very confused and hope someone can answer my questions I will number them because i have a couple....

1) What is the difference between the MAFT, MAFT GEN2, MAFT Pro, SAFC... I know the MAFT gen 2 basicly is a combination of the MAFT and the SAFC... what is the difference between the MAFT Gen 2 and MAFT Pro?

2) Im planning on getting a GM MAF eventually but I want to get a FMIC, and tial BOV before I do so... I know I can hook up the MAFT to the ECU or stock MAF or something how would i go about doing this while still having the option of going with the GM MAFT later on...
 
Okay,
1) maft is the original, idle, mid, WOT adjustment, WOT has 4 present RPM bands, adjustable in 2.0% jumps
maft gen2, uses 12 rpm bands in the 3 load areas, adjustable to 0.5% jumps, allows for egt and WB O2 logging, a few other things
MAft pro, based of off a speed density system, IE no maf. Do not really know the full details, but all 3 of the above can be found EASILY at, www.fullthrottlespeed.com (or their own tech forums at www.fullthrottletech.com and at this site they also have user manuals available for download)
SAFC 8 or 12 rpm bands that are adjustable, the newere SAFC2 has a knock input line, nmot very fimilar with this.
Everything listed above is a piggyback ECU, which splices inline to the airflow line and laters the airflow to "trick" the ECU to deliver more or less fuel. But at the cost of placing you into a different timing table internal to the ECU. Good info about piggy back tuning can be found here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58403

2) This question is VERY confusing, lets make sure you understand something. The MAFT converts the hotwire sensor data to Karmen sensor data that the ECU understands, AND you will no longer run the stock MAS, instead you will HAVE TO use a GM MAF (3.0" or 3.5") in either a blow thru setup (to vent your BOV like you want to do), or in drawthru where the GM MAF will reside where your stock MAS does, (less restriction). so read your question and re-ask according to the paragraph above.

3) NO, piggyback ECUs splice into the factor harness, so depending on eht eroute you go, you may have to alter the factory harness a little (easy to do, 2 out of a 5 for difficualty), or make a few connections under the hood. It is all pretty easy to do and can be done by just about anyone who READS the manuals COMPLETELY before starting.

If you would like, search "samurai" and my username in the the advanced search page and you will see a link I always make on hardwiring the MAFT so you can keep the unit in the cabin portion of the car and not have to extend the harness they provide. But that route is also available (thats what I did) so I can return to original configuration if I wish.

NOW, you will also need some sort of external datalogging. There are a few that can be found in the 2g parts on the tuners homepage, under tuning, or something like that. Read up throughly on ALL available options and make you decision. BUT if it were me, I would got he route I went with DSMlink. Just FYI, I started with a SAFC/ pocketlogger combo, then added the MAFT then finally pulled my head out and bought DSMlink and got rid of the SAFC. Best decision I have made yet. You can search DSMlink and my username to find out why.
 
"You use a MAF sensor adaptor plug under the hood if you want to upgrade the MAF sensor to one of the GM units (also Optional) or our new 4" MAF Sensor which will be out t-his summer. The stock MAF sensor will work with this unit if you prefer that"
-Mike Licht (full throttle speed)

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225628&highlight=maft+gen+2

Mike Licht from full throttle speed stated that the stock MAF sensor will work with the gen 2 maft. Check out the forum for more information on the gen2 maft.
 
Wow, learn something new everyday. Way to go Kalitzki, rep point added. I wonder if the Maft alters the airflow signal from the stock sensor like it does with the GM maf (and not its not the maf that throws it off). Should be a interusitng experiment. log airflow. Then palce the Maft Gen2, leaving it at base injector values, then relog and compare. My car was off a good deal, thank god for lokmeup from the dsmlink forums for creating the "calibrating the maft with a external boost reference" write up. Never really knew mine was that far off.
 
Ok... I'm still confused. How do I splice these into each other? The maft is version 1.3
 

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when they say splice, you need to cut off the connectors off and wire them up directly to eachother, just be sure to leave a inch of both harness on the connectors so you can revert back if you wish. VFAQ and fullthrottletech has writeups which wires are which, just need to mate them up correctly. And WOW, still waiting to install this huh, I remember this thread from Jan.
 
spoolup said:
when they say splice, you need to cut off the connectors off and wire them up directly to eachother, just be sure to leave a inch of both harness on the connectors so you can revert back if you wish. VFAQ and fullthrottletech has writeups which wires are which, just need to mate them up correctly. And WOW, still waiting to install this huh, I remember this thread from Jan.


hahaha! the project took a backside to the "trip" to Afghan! But there are too many wires on the 1G connector from the car
 
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