Balljoint=Hammer=won't come out

[fastclip]

Alright, So i went to go replace my axle's and inner/outer tir rod on my car at the sametime i was lowering it with the prokit springs and illumina shocks. Well I have everything off except for the two lower ball joints on both sides(driver/passenger). Neither set will budge at all. Been 2 days of me and my friend beating it with a rubber mallet. I want to try to save the two lower balljoints if all possible so i am sceptical of using the fork style puller. Is there really any trick to get them off, or is it easier just to say F-it and rip them off and replace the two arms. If so about how much will that cost???

 

[absolute_DSM]

There is a special puller, I believe it is listed in the service manual. I cant remember where I saw the pic, but Ill try to find it.

Hopefully it isnt rust welded in.

But most just take that pulley and maybe a tap to pop them loose.

 

[cgmonkee]

Hey man, I just went through this when I pulled my tranny, it was definitely a pain in the a**

Don't hammer on the top of it or you'll end up damaging the threads, get a ball joint fork, and hit the end of it with a hammer, it takes a while, and a lot of force but you'll get it. (also try getting a floor jack, and move the arm into different heights between hitting the fork.)

Here's the part number for the mitsu tool, I couldn't find it(dealers don't carry it, websites discontinued it), but if you can then that's the best way to go:
"steering linkage puller: MB991113"

You're pretty much guaranteed to damage the boot, so here's the part numbers for both the boots and lock nuts. Good Luck!
MU432101 nut x2
MB808555 boot x2

 

[just2asian]

if you do end up replacing the arms, it will cost u about $150 a arm, we had to do it with my buddies car which just got a auto to 5 speed swap.

 

[1gcrazy]

Some auto parts stores actually let you borrow the tools. I know Advanced does... Just pay for the tool, clean it and take it back...

 

[fhudsonjr]

Try squirting some PB Blaster on where the ball joint goes in. Great stuff for rusted parts. Better than Liquid Wrench. It probably needs to sit for a day or so if you have the time. During that time periodicly squirt it.

You also might try heating up the the knuckle where the ball joint goes in w/ a propnae torch. Be very, very careful where you put the flame, then quench it w/ some cold water.

Last, just use the pickle fork and buy new covers.

Good luck.

 

[poonman]

yea bro, just rent the ball joint press tool, its free at auto zone, your going to need it anyways to press the new one in.

 

[tondef_82]

Hey let me tell you from experience. i had a ball joint fail on me, meaning the thing fell off going 60 miles an hour, not very pretty! Well the point is i had to replace mine i bought a complete lower control arm used for 40 bucks but have found a website that has new one's for 60 each. Just hit it on the side of the steering knuckle where u removed the bolt from with a heavy hammer not a rubber mallet (don't try to hit the bolt from the top as you will mess the threads!). Use a pry bar between the lower control arm and the frame to get it down.

Anyway heres the web site: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

[poonman]

Alright, So i went to go replace my axle's and inner/outer tir rod on my car at the sametime i was lowering it with the prokit springs and illumina shocks. Well I have everything off except for the two lower ball joints on both sides(driver/passenger). Neither set will budge at all. Been 2 days of me and my friend beating it with a rubber mallet. I want to try to save the two lower balljoints if all possible so i am sceptical of using the fork style puller. Is there really any trick to get them off, or is it easier just to say F-it and rip them off and replace the two arms. If so about how much will that cost???

Just get the tool bro and ALSO look at the ball joint before you take it out, some ball joints have a slot in them for the play so basicly its meant to swivle ONE WAY left to right or up to down and make sure when you press them back in you put the slots in the same direction. REMEMBER to get the right work use the right tools, dont be hammering ish when you dont have to, little stupid things like that can cause more problems, for instance if you swing and the hammer misses and puts a nice big dent in your fender, your going to be like damn i should of just rented the tool. Also just for ish and giggles make sure you took the retaining C clip out of the ball joint.

 

[fastclip]

Okay cool, I am going to go get that tool then, I had the ball joint removal forks, but everyone i know that uses those tears the hell out of it. Well i am running to autozone to get that tool, hopefully that will help. I will let you know, thanks.
Just glad i got a daily, 2006 Scion TC

 

[wt71gas]

I didn't see it posted earlier but make sure you removed the c-clips that hold them in because it sure does make it a lot easier to remove if you take the clip off first. Sometimes there is so much grime build up people don't see the clip

 

[1gengsxz3]

also if you wanna pound on it with a hammer just make sure you have the castle nut on it at the top to protect your threads then you can use a real hammer not a rubber one

 

[wret]

You need the tool that looks like this:

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You will get nowhere with a rubber mallet. Many people swear by whacking the knuckle near the joint with a heavy hammer. I've had it work a couple of times but usually end up with the puller.

 

[fastclip]

Wret, yea i just got back from autozone, who didn't have the C-clamp looking on, but they had one that looked like 9the picture you just should, and so i wanted to make sure that was it

 

[tondef_82]

Just get the tool bro and ALSO look at the ball joint before you take it out, some ball joints have a slot in them for the play so basicly its meant to swivle ONE WAY left to right or up to down and make sure when you press them back in you put the slots in the same direction. REMEMBER to get the right work use the right tools, dont be hammering ish when you dont have to, little stupid things like that can cause more problems, for instance if you swing and the hammer misses and puts a nice big dent in your fender, your going to be like damn i should of just rented the tool. Also just for ish and giggles make sure you took the retaining C clip out of the ball joint.

speaking from experience? yea if your too weak to swing a hammer don't try it! He probably doesn't know what he's talking about!

 

[fhudsonjr]

You need the tool that looks like this:

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You will get nowhere with a rubber mallet. Many people swear by whacking the knuckle near the joint with a heavy hammer. I've had it work a couple of times but usually end up with the puller.

I tried using a similiar tool, but there was no way it would fit in there. I believe it will have to be the Mitsu one like in the picture or an identical one (which someone else said is non-existent-which I believe)

 

[speedy13]

I just looked up Caps and there doesn't seem to be a c-clip on the lower ball joint for a d32a. There's one on the upper, but not on the lower. The ball joint tool should work. The tool you say wouldn't work, would it work if you took the control arm off the car and went to town on a vise per-say ? Then you could have more room to work with. I haven't seen the ball joint press not work on a ball joint yet. And we do alot at work. We might have to have gotten creative sometimes on putting big sockets to get a better grip on the joint, but it's always worked so far. If you have acces to a press, that will take it off for sure. but again, you'd have to take off the whole arm. If you don't have acces to a press, then you'd have to pay a shop to press out and in the ball joint, at wich point, it would be cheaper just to buy a new control arm with a new ball joint already. my 2psi

 

[poonman]

speaking from experience? yea if your too weak to swing a hammer don't try it! He probably doesn't know what he's talking about!

bro i been building houses for 13 years so dont even try talking ish about swinging hammers. geez.....

 

[poonman]

Oh i forgot, fastclip you have a 95 well the 95 had a recall to change the lower control arm, before you get to far you should take it to the dealer and see if your under the recall hense free balljoints and control arms.

Here is the recall if they give you any ish

 

[99gst_racer]

A simple $10 pickle fork works fine for me and many people I know.

 

[Auto RS T]

You need the tool that looks like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You will get nowhere with a rubber mallet. Many people swear by whacking the knuckle near the joint with a heavy hammer. I've had it work a couple of times but usually end up with the puller.

I swear by this tool. It works great on tie rod ends and ball joints. It does not damage the boot at all and is painless to use. I pick this up before I go for the pickle fork. Which will most likely kill the boot.

The large c-clamp looking tool is for replacing complete balljoints, not breaking the press joint apart. You only want that tool if you dedcide to replace the joints.

 

[dsmpokolm]

I had a similar problem with my balljoint. Used a tool to press the balljoint out of place on the right side and it came out no problem. Used it on the left and wouldnt budge. Used a sledge hammer and wouldnt budge. Tried everything but no tool would work. I ended up cutting it out. Pain in the ass.

 

[fastclip]

Yea same here, I ended up just ordering a poly suspension kit and replacing everything, it was 114 which is a lot cheaper then 44 each one that gets messed up since two already are.