Ball bearing PTE 50 trim

[CanadianTSi]

Cams and a SMIM cost me about 3-400rpm's in spool.

 

[Poloturbo]

22psi by 3600rpms....

IN WHAT GEAR????????????????????????????????????????????? QUOTE]

 

[LRS95TSI]

ok then...similar "airflow lb/min" to a 50 trim variant: sbg50, pte 5031, rs49, etc

 

[tbTalonES94]

I got 22psi by 3600 rpms in 2nd gear. 3rd was a shy sooner, 4th was a bit sooner and 5th was almost 3k. I also had FP2 cams and a stock intake manifold with a bone stock un-touched head. A friend of mine with my identical set-up on a 2g but with a journal bearing 50-trim got full spool at like 3800-4000 rpms in 3rd gear.

You must be saying your getting 3400rpm full spool in 4th gear. Like someone said up there the BB turbos are good for transitionate boost response. I lost hardly any boost between shifts, it was almost like i was still boosting while i shifted. MUCH better then the evo3 i have on my 2g now.

 

[silvah_gsx]

Is the 300-400 rpm slower spool with cams really worth the top end gains if you're not on a drag strip (say daily driving or road course)?

 

[90blacktsiawd]

If your to the point where you can really use them then yes. But i think your giving the gain in spool time too much credit.

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

You must be saying your getting 3400rpm full spool in 4th gear. Like someone said up there the BB turbos are good for transitionate boost response. I lost hardly any boost between shifts, it was almost like i was still boosting while i shifted. MUCH better then the evo3 i have on my 2g now.

I wonder how this would be with a built a/t? Since I don't lose boost between shifts, I'm thinking only the initial gear building to full boost would matter regarding lag. I never considered this and am considering buying a garret bb 50 trim.

 

[tbTalonES94]

Depends what your looking for. If you want low-end torque and a little (little) better driveability then the stock cams are what u want. But i would have to say the top end gain from cams is WELL worth the 300-400rpm spool loss. Trust me.

 

[Generation X]

Depends what your looking for. If you want low-end torque and a little (little) better driveability then the stock cams are what u want. But i would have to say the top end gain from cams is WELL worth the 300-400rpm spool loss. Trust me.

I totally agree with that statement.

I'm running an FP Green, HKS 264/272 cams etc. and it's well worth it to lose those 300 to 400rpm. It's actually helped me out just a little bit on the traction issue since I'm front wheel drive, and the car is still very drivable on the street. It's not that much different from when I was running my FP B28 and cams, except for the shit load more of topend.

Now on the other hand... I think I could run a road course, but I wouldn't even attempt to run a tight auto x.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Cams and a 50-trim+ are pure sex after 5K

 

[Steve Hebert]

Anyone running this turbo I have a question on the Oil Drain line. I bought the upgrade kit. When I hook up the 'straight' nipple to the turbo and set it up on the car the nipple points right into the motor mount, no way I can put the hose on it.

Did anyone have the same issue? Is it ok to get a 90 degree nipple?

 

[Shane2GSX]

I'm about to get the PTE 5031RE (BB Version). I originally ordered the turbo with an external gate on the O2 housing. But I was told last week that, that they are out of that housing and the housings are on back order from PTE for up to 3 months. The only housings they have in is for an Internal gate or an External on the manifold. I don't want an internal gate.

I was going to do an external on the manifold, but couldn't find a decent manifold with the ability to mount the WG on the collector. Then I found the ERL one that's $500:
http://www.inteli-com.com/erl/products/shopexd.asp?id=17

It comes with a Mitsu, T3, or T4 turbo flange. If I go this route, should I go ahead and get a T3 flange and get the T3 housing with this turbo?? I've heard those housing are more efficient than the Mitus ones.

My other option, is to have PTE drill out the blocked portion of the turbo to allow air to flow into the O2 housing, so I can mount the WG on the O2 like I originally planned. This option will be cheaper by $300, but I will have the mitsu housing of the turbo of course, which is fine.
Like this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258535&page=2

Which option sounds better?

 

[tbTalonES94]

If you want to spend the extra cash, go t3 and don't look back. It's been proven the t3 hotside outperforms the mitsu hot-side when it comes to bolt-on hybrids. If you have the extra cash...then get that sweet manifold and go full t3. You know you have to get an o2 housing that will bolt up to the t3 hot-side right

 

[Shane2GSX]

If you want to spend the extra cash, go t3 and don't look back. It's been proven the t3 hotside outperforms the mitsu hot-side when it comes to bolt-on hybrids. If you have the extra cash...then get that sweet manifold and go full t3. You know you have to get an o2 housing that will bolt up to the t3 hot-side right

Actually, no I didn't know that. Will I have to change the downpipe? Wonder if Punishment sells T3 O2 housings..

 

[90blacktsiawd]

No you shouldn't have to change your downpipe. Just the o2 housing. Punishment should probably have the right one for you to switch to t3 depending on which flange you get the turbo for. I'd also have to say go full garret. It will give you alot more options down the line not to mention a variety of different sized exhaust housings to help your turbo perform where you want it to.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

You also have to change your manifold, but yes, it is common knowledge that a t3 will outperform a mitsu housing. I believe there was a 50+whp gain on a 60trim turbo from switching from stock ported 2g manifold/o2 + mitsu housing to full t3.

 

[Shane2GSX]

Ended up going with this option:
"My other option, is to have PTE drill out the blocked portion of the turbo to allow air to flow into the O2 housing, so I can mount the WG on the O2 like I originally planned. This option will be cheaper by $300, but I will have the mitsu housing of the turbo of course, which is fine.
Like this:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/show...=258535&page=2"


Next question: The only restriction I can see left with my setup is the stock EM. Is it really worth it to port it? I've been told that it really doesn't make that much difference, especially for 50 trim power levels?

 

[sbiggi]

I can finally give a direct comparison between the BB and standard unit. Changing only the turbo and nothing else.

I now hit full boost 500-800 rpm sooner and when I say full boost I mean 30 psi.
Some things to note:
I'm at 6000ft above sealevel
FP2 cams
Magnus Intake Manifold
Ported 2g manifold (only took the ledge off where the fire ring went)
Ported 1g O2
3" Turboback with testpipe

On the Standard Bearing turbo I hit full boost at 4800-5000rpm.
With the Ball Bearing unit I hit full boost at ~4200rpm.

 

[DSM90AWD]

On the Standard Bearing turbo I hit full boost at 4800-5000rpm. With the Ball Bearing unit I hit full boost at ~4200rpm.

Holy crap is that late spool on a 50-trim. What was you baseline turbo (FP Green, T3/T04)?

*edit* saw your elevation, but still would not think you'd see that much difference unless the base turbo had a huge exhaust side or had issues

 

[sbiggi]

Holy crap is that late spool on a 50-trim. What was you baseline turbo (FP Green, T3/T04)?

*edit* saw your elevation, but still would not think you'd see that much difference unless the base turbo had a huge exhaust side or had issues

Went from a PTE 5031E, to the PTE 5031RE

Probably had a preturbo exhaust leak before. I had everything resurfaced when I put on the BB unit, so there "shouldnt" be any leaks.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Leaks will definitely affect spool. I was commenting as our setups are very similar and my bolt-on 50trim hit 20psi by 3800RPM (logged by MAP sensor via DSMLink) which when plotting mas air/PR, was barely right of the surge line so don't think quicker spool not would be possible without running into surge issues

 

[sbiggi]

Leaks will definitely affect spool. I was commenting as our setups are very similar and my bolt-on 50trim hit 20psi by 3800RPM (logged by MAP sensor via DSMLink) which when plotting mas air/PR, was barely right of the surge line so don't think quicker spool would be possible without running into surge issues

30psi gauge pressure, which is ~27psi absolute. It does surge in third gear a little when I start a pull at 3200 rpm or whatever.

 

[Shane2GSX]

I've got my PTE 5031RE ready to install. Now, I'm looking for a manifold. Does anybody know if the Evo GT manifold listed below would push the turbo out too much causing me to have to dent the water pipe even more? Or would the turbo flange on the bottom be thick enough to clear the water pipe?

http://www.turbochargers.com/store/...d=121&osCsid=429a2437e5982bbe34dd6db0e9be24d8

 

[tbTalonES94]

I had the SBR version I manifold (just like the EVOGT mani) and i don't remember having to dent my water-pipe. If I did it was just ever so slightly to get some room for the retaining bolt bumps in the housing. You should be fine.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

The pte housing (at least with the bb5031 and a stock 7 bolt) doesn't require denting of the water pipe. My SBR G50 definitely do though (they cast their own housings).