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ECMlink bad tps?

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AlexGsxCummins

Proven Member
395
34
May 31, 2014
Bremerton, Washington
I have a log but I'm at work ill post it after, I noticed the other day my wideband was not doing the "free air calibration" so I plugged in my laptop and when I started it the car looked normal, once it got hot the car kept switch from open to closed loop with no throttle, but the idle switch showed it was working, I am wondering should I check with a voltmeter to see if the switch in the tps is working correctly? My only other issue is when I give it throttle it will randomly go really lean for a split second and when I let off the throttle it will jump rich but cruising the afr looks fine.
 
I believe there are other parameters that cause open/closed loop besides throttle. Maybe there is an issue with your wideband connection that's causing it to lose power, thus forcing you into open loop.
 
Can that happen? Ive also noticed when it does do the free air Calibration it use to say "cal" / "air" back and forth now the few times it does do it, it just freezes at "air" until I press the throttle. Maybe a new wideband is going to need to be tried I hate this afx
 
alright not super great with link. anyone see anything wrong? afr lean spike is shown in there
 

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  • log.2018.05.29-02.elg
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So this morning I was driving into work and my car started running on 3 cylinders, I got out and sense my wodeband was pegged at 16.00 I checked injectors first. The #2 injector was not firing I checked spark on it just to be sure and it was sparking. Would you think the injector is bad or something else? Ive tested the resistor pack at some point and it was fine.
 
I unplugged and pluged it back in probably 5 times with it running and not firing and couldn't get it to work, only shutting off the car and restarting it fixed it. I wounded if its sticking and that's my lean on inital acceleration problem
 
Try switch the injector with one of the other injectors & see if the problem follows the injector. If it follows the injector is suspect. If switching injector doesn't change the problem then start verifying the wiring & ECU injector control stuff.
 
This was the first time it quit completely so I'm not sure when it's going to happen again. I tested the resistor for the injectors again just now and they were all at 6.3 ohms, the suspect bad injector ohms were 2.3, witch all the others matched.
 
I checked your profile. It shows you're using evo injectors. I'm not fully knowledgable with the evo injectors but if they're like DSM injectors they would be low impedance & why DSM's have a load resistor.
Your resistance values you measured seem off for either low or high injectors. Typical resistance for fuel injectors is: "The majority of injectors are high impedance. Low impedance (peak and hold) injectors have a resistance of between 2 and 4 ohms. High impedance (saturated) injectors have a resistance of between 10 and 14 ohms."
 
Sorry, I need to correct that its FIC 850's in it now. The injector resistor box all read out at 6.3 ohms. All the injector coils read out at 2.3.
 
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