AWD Conversion Project.

[805DSM]

Well hopefully you get that awd trans fixed or get another one so you can enjoy the AWD , because it sucks having done all that work and still be fwd

 

[miguelmcv]

Updating my swap.. Well I just install my FWD Tranny and did a boost leak test.

It will run Tomorrow,,,, Hopefully it will.

Here are some pics of the process.

damn man looks good. im looking to do this to my spyder (seems like everyone else is too ) ps do the world a favor and scrap those lexanis!

Yea. I know.

I can't afford a good set of wheels at this moment, But that's my next Mod after I finish my Swap.

So, for now I have to put up with that.

 

[gorf]

Looks good I still do not understand why all the write ups tell you to cut holes for the gas tank bolts it is so easy to fish them in with piano wire.

I used a mechanical finger for retrieving parts and was able to insert all except one bolt that way.

Another short cut instead of welding use metal adhesive and good quality steel or stainless pop rivets place them no more than 3/4 inch apart.
Check out aircraft spruce for the glue and rivets.

Interesting.
But tooooooooo late, If I would off know that earlier, I could off go that way.

Did you document it?

Before starting my swap I read, see, and every one is doing a Hole to drop the Bolts.
Wandering why not to give some info. on how to do it. Well for the future swaps.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151408757-post146.html

 

[miguelmcv]

I used a mechanical finger for retrieving parts and was able to insert all except one bolt that way.

Another short cut instead of welding use metal adhesive and good quality steel or stainless pop rivets place them no more than 3/4 inch apart.
Check out aircraft spruce for the glue and rivets.



http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151408757-post146.html

I saw that before I start my Swap.

But it doesn't say step by step how to drop the bolts with out cutting the chassis.
He just mention the Magnetic thing, which just made my mind fly.

 

[gorf]

I saw that before I start my Swap.

But it doesn't say step by step how to drop the bolts with out cutting the chassis.
He just mention the Magnetic thing, which just made my mind fly.

step by step
This is for gas tank hanger bolts only.
1. identify the bolt you are going to use.
2. grab it with the mechanical finger.
3. feed through the hole that is right next to the spot where the new bolt will go.
4. get the thread started and let the bolt go so it drops right in the hole.

The two rear holes are VERY easy, just snake it in and drop it. The drivers side front hole is the same, hole right next to it and easy to drop in. The only one I had to cut a hole for was the passenger side front and I just drilled a hole big enough to snake the finger in and drop the bolt.

Sorry but I did not keep a step by step photo log like you are. Please continue and keep up the good work.

Additional note: Some people hear my suggestion for pop rivets for the drive shaft brackets and freak "That CAN"T be strong enough!"
Airplanes are built this way! Glue and then rivets. As long as you are not using hardware store aluminum rivets, this will be stronger than a half dozen spot welds. Make sure you cover the whole thing with spray undercoat when done. As an additional step, if you are so inclined, dip the rivets in zinc chromate paint before inserting and popping.

I have been running my car like this for three years, have driven it in autocross and at the strip and there is no sign of movement on the drive shaft bracket.
I'll try to get an close up photo and put it in the other thread so as to not highjack this one.

 

[miguelmcv]

I see.

I all ready did my mess. But hopefully some else who uses this thread as a guide can go that way so not to mess with drilling the Hole.

I wish to have that Info before.

A friend of mine that works at a Body shop, Told me about some sore of Paste stuff that can keep a Bolt on the Frame for the life of the car with out loosing or Cracking the Paste. (solid as Steel).

I think that's the same Product that you are talking about.

It's a Mixed of two paste.

Any ways.

Thanks for the Info Dude.

 

[pazsion]

nice save!

Thank you for takeing pics too. It really helps visualize what i might be up against when i actually get everything together.

lighter? If this mod can shed weight, makes me want to do it even more! And could be worth doing sooner rather then later. How much lighter do you think it could be?

Check those welds often, particulary load and torque areas? they can sometimes be tricky to get solid.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Additional note: Some people hear my suggestion for pop rivets for the drive shaft brackets and freak "That CAN"T be strong enough!"
Airplanes are built this way! Glue and then rivets. As long as you are not using hardware store aluminum rivets, this will be stronger than a half dozen spot welds. Make sure you cover the whole thing with spray undercoat when done. As an additional step, if you are so inclined, dip the rivets in zinc chromate paint before inserting and popping.

I have been running my car like this for three years, have driven it in autocross and at the strip and there is no sign of movement on the drive shaft bracket.
I'll try to get an close up photo and put it in the other thread so as to not highjack this one.

What about steel shank'ed aluminum rivets? 3/16 large enough?

Chris

 

[andrewrnava]

wow looking good
how much where you gonna sell the once gsx

 

[miguelmcv]

wow looking good
how much where you gonna sell the once gsx

The once used to be AWD (which is now a FWD), is the one I am selling.

I don't know how much I am going to let it go, which I don't know if the Welding will keep up for a long time, which It was my first experience with Welding.

It is hard to tell, which now It being Idling a little (some times is good and some times is Idling).

I haven't get any problems besides the Idling issue, Well it is stock, No Mods, which it is making it so reliable.

I have to think about the price, But seriously, the person who buys it, He needs to know all that and have to look at it really good so he knows what he is getting, which the car will be sold (AS IS).

 

[Kota88k]

I finally found a gsx.
The car was not working when I bought it, But after replacing the fuel pump and filter, Boom, It start wright up.
After driving it found out that, Transmission is bad, it make a bad noise, It sounds like a bad throw out bearing and 4th gear pops out, radiator is leaking and is from another car, They just fit it in there, The car was really bad, loose bolt all around the engine, leaks all over the place, dirty carpet, bad seats, etc, etc, etc.
I fixed every single thing, I am using it now and it drives well with out using the 4th gear, obviously I'm not forcing it at all.
The top paint of the car is really bad from the front all the way to the back (Hood, Roof, Trunk), and have some bends on the roof.
After waiting to find a good deal to get a gsx and sell my gst., now that I have it, I being looking at it and is bad, bad, bad decision, Because the car looks like is not being well care, and seriously, changing all the good stuff that I have in my gst to the gsx like MR2 Electric power steering system, seats, wideband, boost, oil gauges, engine, fuel system, etc, etc, etc,.... So I got to the conclusion on doing the GSX conversion.
I will convert my gst to gsx and the gsx to gst, so I can sell the gsx as a gst and get some money back.
I being reading and it doesn't looks to hard to do it, It seems the hardest part is to be swapping the rear Bolts for the rear end, so I start stripping down the car and open the holes to clear the bolts.
On my case, It will be more harder to do it, because not only will be a gsx conversion, but it will be a gst conversion as well, I have to take everything from the gst and put it on the gsx, so I have to do an extra hole to bring the 2 front bolts out of the gst (sub-frame) and open another ones on the gsx to install the bolts, this is because the gst has only one bolt that aligns with the gsx (rear bolts), the other front bolts of the gst are on a different location of the gsx. All the conversions that I have seeing, they leave the front bolt on the gst and just install the front bolts of the gsx, But because I need the gst bolt to put it on to the gsx I have to take them out.
The gst has 8inch in between the front and rear bolt (Sub-Frame), which the gsx has around 12 or 14inch, I don't remember but is some where around, I will take measurements tomorrow and verify, I will put some pics as well to let you guys see how is the project going and understand better on what I am trying to say.

Hey I have a Talon Tsi Awd but the body is super Shitty! There is a clean sexy lookin Talon tsi Fwd a Few towns over with a clean like not from ohio body literaly zero oght notta no rust. Im thinking About doing the conversion... is it worth it? i mean i am still driving my awd every day and i cannot see my self running a fwd? ya feel me?

 

[miguelmcv]

Hey I have a Talon Tsi Awd but the body is super Shitty! There is a clean sexy lookin Talon tsi Fwd a Few towns over with a clean like not from ohio body literaly zero oght notta no rust. Im thinking About doing the conversion... is it worth it? i mean i am still driving my awd every day and i cannot see my self running a fwd? ya feel me?

If you have the time and the tools...........
Go for it.

It is easy, It's almost bolt on, all what you have to pay attention on, is when welding the shaft brackets, all the rest is bolt on.

If you are not picky, then is more easy and faster, but if you want it to looks as clean as possible, then that takes more time.


You can do it slowly If you want, You can drive the GST, and take apart your rear end AWD.

After that, Put your AWD rear end to your GST including the Exhaust system, Brackets for the shaft, and you can still drive the GST with the rear end AWD, (obviously with out the Shaft).

You can take a brake or keep going to Swap the Front end, which is, Just the Transmission, T Case and AXLES, And You Are Done.,

Now, you can drive your (GSX Conversion).

If you decide to do the GST Conversion to get some money back, then you have the time to do it slowly, or send it to the Yank Yard.

 

[Kota88k]

If you have the time and the tools...........
Go for it.

It is easy, It's almost bolt on, all what you have to pay attention on, is when welding the shaft brackets, all the rest is bolt on.

If you are not picky, then is more easy and faster, but if you want it to looks as clean as possible, then that takes more time.


You can do it slowly If you want, You can drive the GST, and take apart your rear end AWD.

After that, Put your AWD rear end to your GST including the Exhaust system, Brackets for the shaft, and you can still drive the GST with the rear end AWD, (obviously with out the Shaft).

You can take a brake or keep going to Swap the Front end, which is, Just the Transmission, T Case and AXLES, And You Are Done.,

Now, you can drive your (GSX Conversion).

If you decide to do the GST Conversion to get some money back, then you have the time to do it slowly, or send it to the Yank Yard.

Yeah the Money is the thing stopping me the part is we (my Family) owns a auto repair shop so i can do all this on a rack

 

[miguelmcv]

Yeah the Money is the thing stopping me the part is we (my Family) owns a auto repair shop so i can do all this on a rack

Wow.

I don't have a garage where I can work, I always work under the sun and some times I have to wait till the sun comes down a little so it's not to hot.


Lucky you, that have some where and some one who can help you out.

 

[91mits]

any updates? did you end up test driving the said awd conversion?

 

[miguelmcv]

I being busy with my daughter's car (Honda SI).

I have to get it gun for her Job, so after I finish with her's, I will continue with my swap.

Actually, I almost finish all, I drop the AWD tranny and T-Case, along with the shaft, so is 90% finish.

I have some issues with the rear Axles, some body put the axles wrong.

They put the short axle at the driver side and the long axle at the passenger side.

I have read that the long axle wont go into the passenger side, because is longer then the usual one, But on my case it did went all the way in.

This is on a (LSD) obviously,.....

But, How ever, My short Axle splines, got jam only at the end of the splines.

It's rounded, there is no spines any more, (this is only the very end of the splines..

I was wondering to open the rear end, to see who is inside, But, I have never open a rear end, nor an LSD.

I have my manual where it shows step by stem, But I don't know if there is something special to be care about when removing the internals.

By the way, here are some pics of the process.

 

[dsmrebel084]

Nice keep up the work

 

[miguelmcv]

Her is an UPDATE.

I installed the 3" Exhaust and didn't fit.

I had to do some cutting and welding to make it fit.

The Exhaust System was too low at the other car, and was rubbing almost all the time.

Lucky me, that everything work out good.

I checked the rear Dif. and found found out that, I have no LSD.ohdamn:

I do have the LSD Axles, But some one might changed the DIF. and install a Non LSD with the LSD axles.

That's why the small axle was bad.

Now I have to look for a Non LSD Axle Cup.

By the way I just Fire up the Car, and sound and looks good.

Once I replace the Axle, I just have to wire up my MR2 Steering Pump and go for a ride.

How ever Here are some pics of the process.

 

[Boostinsideways]

(Now will someone write up a 1g AWD conversion already!!)

Not exactly feasible due to the difference in the unibody between 1g FWD and 1g AWD. Ever popped the hatch on a 1g awd? Not any trunk space to speak of. I was lucky to get a full shopping trip of groceries back there without having to toss stuff in the back seat.

The differnces between the 2g unibody is negligible. The main reason this swap was ever undertaken still is that you could not get a Spyder in AWD stock.

 

[spawn87]

i had a quick question you said you have an MR2 electric power steering in your car can you tell me about it? like how to swap it, benefits, and pics it seems like its worth it to clean up engine bay.

by the way excellent work on the swap.

 

[miguelmcv]

i had a quick question you said you have an MR2 electric power steering in your car can you tell me about it? like how to swap it, benefits, and pics it seems like its worth it to clean up engine bay.

by the way excellent work on the swap.

Well.

I used AN Fittings for the System, so it is straight forward.

The Benefits is.

A more clean engine, (Obviously), The motor will gain a little more HP, It is not much, (This is because of the weight of the Steering rotation).
There are many threads abut Discussing the Benefits and the bad.

The BAD.

It drains to much power at Idle,.
You wont make it with the stock alternator, At least you need a 120amp Alternator.
A Saturn Alternator would be the cheapest to do, to handle the Juice.

I still working (installing the Steering Sensor), But will take a little of time doing it.

I am planning to do a wright up, about how to do it the right way, Like the MR2 System does.

A light Info.

The pump will go full load at Idle when the car is parked, and after 1 or 2 mnts, without movement from the steering nor speed, the pump will turn off by it self, It will remain off until it receives signal from the steering or the speed sensor.

When the car is moving, it will slow down the Pump, so the pump will not be on full load.

I have test it so many times, But I haven't install it yet, so, I would like to get it don to do the wright up with pics and maybe with a video to proof how the system works.

Here are some pics of the system.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Looks good!

 

[keithlag]

Looks good wish i could get a gsx over here.

 

[spawn87]

Well.

I used AN Fittings for the System, so it is straight forward.

The Benefits is.

A more clean engine, (Obviously), The motor will gain a little more HP, It is not much, (This is because of the weight of the Steering rotation).
There are many threads abut Discussing the Benefits and the bad.

The BAD.

It drains to much power at Idle,.
You wont make it with the stock alternator, At least you need a 120amp Alternator.
A Saturn Alternator would be the cheapest to do, to handle the Juice.

I still working (installing the Steering Sensor), But will take a little of time doing it.

I am planning to do a wright up, about how to do it the right way, Like the MR2 System does.

A light Info.

The pump will go full load at Idle when the car is parked, and after 1 or 2 mnts, without movement from the steering nor speed, the pump will turn off by it self, It will remain off until it receives signal from the steering or the speed sensor.

When the car is moving, it will slow down the Pump, so the pump will not be on full load.

I have test it so many times, But I haven't install it yet, so, I would like to get it don to do the wright up with pics and maybe with a video to proof how the system works.

Here are some pics of the system.

its definitely something i want to look into. thanx for the info man.

 

[miguelmcv]

Updating my Conversion.

I just want to let you guys know, That I just finish installing the MR2 Steering System.

I install the Steering Sensor, ECU and Driver, and It is working NICE.

I install the Steering Sensor at the Steering Column. (it was the hardest part).

I hooked up 1+ to the switch, and the other + to the Fuel Pump Line, which will enable the pump only when the car is ON.

If you hook up both of the + to the Switch, It will turn on when you put the key on to the Accessory position, which you don't what that, (If your battery is low, the pump will drain it before you start the car).

I notice, That, It is not in FULL LOAD when is parking, I haven't changed my alternator (90amp), It is so, so, soooooo quite, I can't here the pump running when the engine is ON.

I found out as well that, our DSM has the same signal from the Speed Sensor.
The MR2 delivers 4pulse per revolution, which our DSM uses the same exact pulse (4 pulse per revolution), so we can just wire it up to the speed sensor.

I test the System, and It takes 25sec to slow down the pump after the engine Turns ON, (when there is no movement), and takes another 25sec to turn it OFF.

Once is OFF, If I move the Steering, It turns ON wright away and takes another 50sec to turn ON.

I don't think that we need more then a 90amp alternator to keep it up.

I like the way it turn out.

Here are some pics of the process.