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Are 6bolt n/a cranks nitride coated?

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Sharkcus

15+ Year Contributor
155
2
Jul 9, 2004
Cleveland, Ohio
I am familiar with the general differences between the 4g63 and 4g63T engines, but I haven't been able to find any info on the cranks. Everyone I asked seemed to have the same answer. "The motors are identical except for the cams, rods, etc....." but nobody knows about the crank.

I am building a 6bolt 4g63T (forged internals) from a N/A longblock and I would absolutely love to use the n/a crank but for my application, it will need to the the equivelent of the 4g63T crank (including nitride coating).

Anyone know?
 
Thanks for the reply! I did see those, but I wasn't sure if they were nitride coated like the standard 6bolts cranks. Is it possible to tell the difference between a non nitride coated crank and a coated crank visually? If so, that is an option. When I take my crank out this week, I can compare it.
 
There is no visual way to tell if its nitrided. They are the same part number, so they are the same crank. The end.
 
vintagemuscle said:


Both posted threads neglected the fact that the blocks are DIFFERENT. The N/T block does not have oil squirters. If you're running forged pistons, this won't be a big deal as far as internals go. However, the oil squirters are a MUST for cast pistons, and regardless of what pistons you use, you will need to port the oil relief valve in the oil filter housing to accomodate the much higher oil pressure caused by the lack of squirters and/or balance shafts.

Hope this helps,

Greg Heineken :talon:
 
The n/t block not having oil squirters doesnt make the oil pressure higher.Ive had my autometer mech gauge on both,they are the same.
 
The machine shop who machined out my crank were trying to say that my stock crank wasnt nitrate coated which I always thought/think it is, and I was wondering if maching the crank would remove some of the nitrate surface.
 
nightspeed87 said:
The machine shop who machined out my crank were trying to say that my stock crank wasnt nitrate coated which I always thought/think it is, and I was wondering if maching the crank would remove some of the nitrate surface.
Tell the machine shop they are wrong. And yes it does remove the treated surface some.:dsm:
 
hey,
friend of mine got 6Bolt N/A with 8 VALVE head! with 70000km.May I use this Block and Crank for my project??Esp. if this crank is forged too..???rest of block should be same...OR??
Let me know please...its importen for me..:sosad:
Not so easy check some good 6Bolt in Czech republic...
Thank you
Venca
 
MarsaGSX said:
hey,
friend of mine got 6Bolt N/A with 8 VALVE head! with 70000km.May I use this Block and Crank for my project??Esp. if this crank is forged too..???rest of block should be same...OR??
Let me know please...its importen for me..:sosad:
Not so easy check some good 6Bolt in Czech republic...
Thank you
Venca


8 valve?? Sounds like a single cam .....
 
Venca. We run a small 16g with a N/A six bolt that came out of a 1989 SOHC galant. Car uns great and hits mid 12's on pump gas at 5800ft. You will be fine.

Steven
 
omegis13 said:
Both posted threads neglected the fact that the blocks are DIFFERENT. The N/T block does not have oil squirters. If you're running forged pistons, this won't be a big deal as far as internals go. However, the oil squirters are a MUST for cast pistons, and regardless of what pistons you use, you will need to port the oil relief valve in the oil filter housing to accomodate the much higher oil pressure caused by the lack of squirters and/or balance shafts.

Interesting.

You say that oil squirters are neccessary for cast pistons, yet the n/t cast pistons don't use them at all. I won't even mention how my OEM cast turbo pistons haven't seen oil from a squirter in over 3 years and I hold perfect uniform compression across the board with over 35k miles on the block and many mid 12 second runs @ 110+mph.

Also, I never ported my oil relief hole either but my factory and stewert warner gauge both tell me my pressure isn't insane. I ran both types of oil cooler set-ups as well. I'm also missing balance shafts as well.

Weird.
 
Yeah, I dont at all buy in to the whole, "You have to port your oil delivery system" business. How many years have guys removed balance shafts without doing that? If it was a major problem, I'm sure it would be a well known part of the process by now.
 
There will be a point when too much oil pressure will hurt. It all depends on how your engine is built. Removing the balance shafts AND using an N/T block will give you a tremendous amount of oil pressure. I have personally seen it affect performance.

I have seen that a little porting of the relief valve in the filter housing, combined with a nice sized oil cooler, will drop oil pressure 10-15psi. Which is good when you already have too much. Turbo spooled faster (ball bearing) and overall performance was improved. Oil pressure is where it should be at idle, and at WOT, without compromising your engine or your turbo.
 
biglady112 said:
Venca. We run a small 16g with a N/A six bolt that came out of a 1989 SOHC galant. Car uns great and hits mid 12's on pump gas at 5800ft. You will be fine.

Steven

hey,
sounds good..but I wanna build 10sec car...here is not a place for Maybe..cus for me is BIG issue to check 6Bolt Block..and don´t need talk about shipping price for all that stuff to my country..So..Do it right..Do it ONCE..
BTW thanks for help:thumb:

Does anyone know if Mitsu Part number of Crank and Rods of 6Bolt N/A SOHC!!! is same as 6Bolt N/A DOHC..

Thanks
Venca
 
MarsaGSX said:
hey,
sounds good..but I wanna build 10sec car...here is not a place for Maybe..cus for me is BIG issue to check 6Bolt Block..and don´t need talk about shipping price for all that stuff to my country..So..Do it right..Do it ONCE..
BTW thanks for help:thumb:

Does anyone know if Mitsu Part number of Crank and Rods of 6Bolt N/A SOHC!!! is same as 6Bolt N/A DOHC..

Thanks
Venca


you need caps... Its a dsm program that lets you look up the individual part numbers of every part and give you details on everything.
 
Venca. We run a small 16g with a N/A six bolt that came out of a 1989 SOHC galant. Car uns great and hits mid 12's on pump gas at 5800ft. You will be fine.

Steven

hey Steven,
In wednesday I will get my 6Bolt block from junkyard...and..They should check for me that N/A DOHC 6Bolt....But they told me they got only SOHC 6Bolt blocks....So, Iam confused if I can use it..if can use this Crank/block for break 10sec??
You told me you runing 12´sec on s16G...Can you tell me if that crank is Same??
I can send pics after take that short block on parts...
Is on crank any letters/marks which can identify right 6Bolt crank...

Read about using 6Bolt Hyunday crank??? May I use hyunday short blok?I can get this too...How about use mitsu 6Bolt crank with Hyunday 6Bolt block???
Installed Caps but there is No 2.0l N/A 6Bolt DOHC!!! there is just 2.0l 420A engine..I can´t check if 2.0l 6Bolt SOHC crank got same part number as that right 6Bolt crank:cry:

right now found this thread http://www.thegalantcenter.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31528,but there is written that I can put DOHC head on Sophc short block..what I understand...But I need to know if got same Crank???

If anyone know answer on my questions....HELP!!:sosad:
Thank you
Venca
 
I replied to you Vanca. The cranks in the hyundai's measure the same. I have heard that they are a little different as far as the nitride though. They produced the G4CS, G4CN and a few others that I can't remember. The G4CN was a 2.0L. The blocks appeared the same when I inspected it though. I know the oil pump and timing assembly was a little different, but all the stuff for the 4G63 bolted right up. I would imagine the block castings are the same as well. Just a different stamp for the korean car.

As I said, we put the good 2G pistons out of the 7 bolt onto the SOHC rods, put in new bearings and rings, and the car runs great. With proper machining to the rods for the larger wrist pin of course.

Steven
 
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