Anyone using COPPER turbo inlet gasket?

[housegsx]

My car started to run like shit a couple days before I put it away in the fall. I thought it was an o2 housing inlet gasket so I purchased the FFWD SCE copper gasket.

FFWD Connection - COPPER

I tore it down yesterday and found this...

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I guess I ordered the wrong gasket.

I then installed the new FFWD copper o2 inlet gasket anyways.

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So now I need to order a new turbine housing inlet gasket. Should I go for the FFWD SCE copper gasket here too? My oem one obviously didn't hold up for whatever reason. They were new turbo bolts and torqued properly.

Also, I have read a lot of bad about the flat SS gasket. So that seems to leave me with the copper... Is anyone else using these gaskets? I'd like to order something tonight.

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[5150DSM]

Copper gaskets are great as long as everything is true. Before I installed a new gasket I would take a straight edge to both mating surfaces and true them up as needed.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

Why don't you just get the solid stainless steel gasket LovinBoost sells??? those things are pretty nice. I bought one from him like a year ago because I wanted something that won't blow out. Thing worked like a charm.

 

[gofer]

Erik, I've got the FFWD SCE copper gaskets on my exhaust manifold and turbo inlet and they're amazing. Its actually the exact opposite of needing a flat surface. The copper gaskets actually "crush" as you torque the bolts down on them, this seals the surfaces and the o-ring basically makes it exhaust leak proof.

Just make sure that when you're installing them that you've removed old gasket chunks first, I'm sure you already know that though.

 

[housegsx]

Why don't you just get the solid stainless steel gasket LovinBoost sells??? those things are pretty nice. I bought one from him like a year ago because I wanted something that won't blow out. Thing worked like a charm.

Paul, 99gstracer, and other members have a bunch of negative opinions on them. And I don't see how a flat piece of steel is supposed to seal anyways.

 

[housegsx]

Erik, I've got the FFWD SCE copper gaskets on my exhaust manifold and turbo inlet and they're amazing. Its actually the exact opposite of needing a flat surface. The copper gaskets actually "crush" as you torque the bolts down on them, this seals the surfaces and the o-ring basically makes it exhaust leak proof.

Just make sure that when you're installing them that you've removed old gasket chunks first, I'm sure you already know that though.

Cool! I just ordered the gasket a few minutes ago. Copper works best everywhere else so it's nice to know that it will do the same for the exhaust. The flanges are all cleaned up and ready to go.

 

[JusMX141]

You should only be using OEM turbine inlet and outlet gaskets. The paper aftermarket gaskets cannot take boost (your example), the thick stainless aftermarket gaskets are too rigid to seal properly and will crack and distort from the rapid heating and cooling, and I think the copper gaskets are a bad idea because I'm not positive the copper can withstand the heat and pressure that our manifolds dish out. Close to the head, maybe- but at the turbo there are better options (OEM).

I've seen the copper gaskets distort into ovals at 5k miles or less....but what I'm not sure of is if the manifold-to-turbo bolts remained torqued properly during this time. There's a chance that it will be fine if the bolts stay tight.



BTW Erik...does this mean you're ready for the HX35?

 

[gofer]

The problem with the SS gasket is that its sealing properties aren't as great as the composite or copper gaskets because it doesn't compress. Another issue, when the SS heats up it expands which will cause it to cut into the turbo manifold bolts and they will shear off when you try to remove them.

I haven't ran the SCE copper gasket long enough to see it distort, I guess it's something I'll be checking after a few thousand miles.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

Paul, 99gstracer, and other members have a bunch of negative opinions on them. And I don't see how a flat piece of steel is supposed to seal anyways.

Well it worked great for me so I have no complaints. in a way what you are saying is that all of the turbo inlet gaskets are only one time use, and after that they are not reuseable correct???
because after you use any gasket that gets crushed it turns to a flat piece of steel that won't seal anymore.

 

[JusMX141]

because after you use any gasket that gets crushed it turns to a flat piece of steel that won't seal anymore.

The flat stainless "gaskets" are just flat pieces of stainless steel which do not crush in the least under 40 lb/ft of bolt torque.

 

[housegsx]

Well it worked great for me so I have no complaints. in a way what you are saying is that all of the turbo inlet gaskets are only one time use, and after that they are not reuseable correct???
because after you use any gasket that gets crushed it turns to a flat piece of steel that won't seal anymore.

Yes, I don't reuse any gasket that are important to the function of the car.

 

[housegsx]

You should only be using OEM turbine inlet and outlet gaskets.

Justin, I think that was an OEM gasket that I blew...

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

You should only be using OEM turbine inlet and outlet gaskets. The paper aftermarket gaskets cannot take boost (your example), the thick stainless aftermarket gaskets are too rigid to seal properly and will crack and distort from the rapid heating and cooling, and I think the copper gaskets are a bad idea because I'm not positive the copper can withstand the heat and pressure that our manifolds dish out. Close to the head, maybe- but at the turbo there are better options (OEM).

I've seen the copper gaskets distort into ovals at 5k miles or less....but what I'm not sure of is if the manifold-to-turbo bolts remained torqued properly during this time. There's a chance that it will be fine if the bolts stay tight.



BTW Erik...does this mean you're ready for the HX35?

I actually did use an OEM turbine inlet gasket and I had the same effect housegsx had with his; and for some reason the bolts would come loose evry now and then. After I went with the solid gasket it all stopped... just my luck I guess.

Justin, I think that was an OEM gasket that I blew...

Doubt that it is. the OEM gasket is a multi layer steel gasket. yours looks like the perforated steel ones they sell at auto parts stores.

 

[housegsx]

When I pulled off my heat shield the 2 bolts closest to the head were completely backed out. I think the gasket blew in the thin spot and shot out. Because I never did find the other half of the gasket. Then then was no clamping pressure on the fasteners any more so they backed out.

 

[JusMX141]

Justin, I think that was an OEM gasket that I blew...

Definitely was not OEM.

The OEM 7cm gaskets are not shaped like the Evo III turbine housing inlet, and are not made with a perforated metal on the outside like yours.


Part # MD171220 should look as such:

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[dsmtun3r98gst]

I just read 99gst racers review of the stainless steel gasket. He mentioned something about the gasket being a little price, but you can actually get it wayyyy cheaper at the devil's den believe it or not. I got it for like $6 I believe.

 

[housegsx]

Definitely was not OEM.

The OEM 7cm gaskets are not shaped like the Evo III turbine housing inlet, and are not made with a perforated metal on the outside like yours.


Part # MD171220 should look as such:

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Ok, I've seen that. I figured there were a few different oem gaskets. Anyways, I guess I'll be giving the copper a try.

 

[JusMX141]

Our Mitsu dealer in Greensburg is pathetic- if I remember they had to order the lower control arms to service the recall on my '97 GS when I bought it back in 2002. They would almost definitely have to order any DSM-specific gasket.

 

[knochgoon24]

I had issues until I switched to some good high strength bolts that I could torque down a little more than 40ft-lbs. (I thought factory spec was 45?) I got some 10.9 bolts that were further treated off a friend. They rock.

I'm using a stainless steel gasket right now and it's the only one that's holding up. I used ones from Advance for a while when I was using a 6cm housing, and those never held up for long. It did hold up when I used the sealing ring though.

I actually use a stainless steel 6cm gasket for between my o2 housing and downpipe. The holes all lined up (I use it diagonally) and I just trimmed the excess off.

 

[housegsx]

Justin, I HATE Sendell! I had to drive home to get my VIN to get them to sell me an oil filter. Any they screwed my dad over on a transmission for his Buick about 10 years ago.

I tried finding the receipt for those original gaskets. I think I got it from Extremepsi as a part of their 2g install kit years ago.

 

[housegsx]

I had issues until I switched to some good high strength bolts that I could torque down a little more than 40ft-lbs. (I thought factory spec was 45?) I got some 10.9 bolts that were further treated off a friend. They rock.

40-47 ft-lbs. That's what my Chilton says for a 1g. and 23 ft-lbs for a 2g. WTF

I can't imagine only using 23 ft-lbs haha.

The bolts I was using are new oem. I had heard of too many issues with snapped ARP turbo bolts. This was years ago, maybe they're better now.

 

[JusMX141]

Use the OEM bolts with the "11" notation on the head. The OEM bolts which are blank will pop the heads right off....two of them did so on Jeff's car.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

I got that set and their ARP bolt kit and I havn't had any problems with it at all. They are awesome!!

 

[knochgoon24]

I had chromoly ARP ones and I hated them. I snapped 2, stripped the threads off 1, and the only one left looks like it's been through hell.

 

[JusMX141]

Good luck drilling an ARP manifold / turbo fastener should one ever break off!