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anyone replaced their own Windshield?

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InfiniteGSX

20+ Year Contributor
3,182
15
Dec 10, 2002
Tijeras, New Mexico
I have done the rear hatch window on my 97 Eclipse. but I gotta do the front Windshield of my 94 Talon AWD. Someone found a way to properly bash it in. Any tips? I was going to just get two L Shaped Blades, one longer then the other... And be done with it. Whats the easiest way to pull my busted windshield? I already have alot of glass to clean up, but would prefer not adding too much more. Last time I removed a busted window it killed the L Blade, I had to finish removal of the rear hatch window with a coat hanger... and that was a PITA.
 
Napa sells the Hand Pull W/S cutting tool. It takes about 10 minutes to cut it out and about 20 minutes to back cut the urethane to install. Napa also sells the U-418 or the new updated sealant. You will need two tubes and cost about $20 a tube. Installed Autoglass for 10 years and could pull a Talon W/s and install a new unit in less than 30 minutes. Should only take you a couple of hours, depends on what kind of mess you make.
 
I know they are f+++ng complicated.When I did mine I use the brake wire of a bicycle but it took me around 2 hours to get it off. But it was the only thing I could come up with in an hurry.

Napa sells the Hand Pull W/S cutting tool. It takes about 10 minutes to cut it out and about 20 minutes to back cut the urethane to install. Napa also sells the U-418 or the new updated sealant. You will need two tubes and cost about $20 a tube. Installed Autoglass for 10 years and could pull a Talon W/s and install a new unit in less than 30 minutes. Should only take you a couple of hours, depends on what kind of mess you make.

You don't need to sealants that cost $20 each to install the windshield back in.They sell that rubber glue that the windshield originally has for $8 and it doesn't take the whole role either, and yes to install it, it shouldnt take you more than 10 minutes if you do it right.
 
I did the rear window on my 97 eclipse... took one bottle of window Eurthane...

I'm glad you mentioned Napa. Gonna get some tools. I don't care about the old window... but the one comming out of the parts car must be mint.
 
The rear window is much harder than the front. This is coming from my buddy with a 2g 420a Talon.
 
Really... The entire hatch window was busted out... so the broken glass killed the blade... Then I did the other hatch to pull the new window out of on my bed. Got halfway through and the window was able to move a little... I finished with a wire.
 
If you have access to piano wire it works wonders
 
Winshields is one thing I don't mess with. Spend the $200 and have a new one installed in 20 mins. End up changing them every few years anyhow.
 
Yeah the guy that has the parts car told me to just get some #10 Piano Wire... But I'm not sure how this will work without damaging things. Care to shed some light?

Personally I feel that the hard part is getting the beginning of the piano wire in...get a metal clothes hanger and wrap the paino wire to to with tape as tight as possible...

Then once its through untape and pull hanger back out...then with help of a second person, I would do a very small and I mean small sawing motion...about 1-2 inches each way...paino wire just cuts right through the rubber goop stuff everytime I do it...also just as an added caution do not force the glass.....just because you think itll come out easy doesnt mean it will...

I went from the passenger side top corner over to the drivers side then down and back towards the passenger side but I didn't go back up to where I started...I pulled the glass and it felt like it would come nice and easy the all I heard was the glass shatter....dammit

make sure you do a full lap around the glass and do a second lap if you got the time just to double check LOL :thumb:
 
So which way would be easier?

I could purchase two L Blades for window Removal, A short one just to cut half the rubber, and the second one twice the size to cut the rest... and go around...

Or get the Piano Wire and have the guy help me...
 
Napa sells the Hand Pull W/S cutting tool. It takes about 10 minutes to cut it out and about 20 minutes to back cut the urethane to install. Napa also sells the U-418 or the new updated sealant. You will need two tubes and cost about $20 a tube. Installed Autoglass for 10 years and could pull a Talon W/s and install a new unit in less than 30 minutes. Should only take you a couple of hours, depends on what kind of mess you make.

Listen to this man right here. I'm in the autoglass industry right now and he's got it on the nose. I've never seen the piano wire done, but I imagine it would work. Someone mentioned just basic 'window sealant.' DON'T DO THAT! The adhesives that are specifically made for windshield installation or engineered to hold a window in the event of an accident. Also, if you didn't know it, the windshield is critical in the deployment process of your airbags. The last thing you'd want is to get in a wreck and that cheap sealant let go of the windshield. Buy the stuff that is FORMULATED for holding a window in.
 
Since I work in a body shop I've only used specific tools such as the pull knife, long knife, air knife, etc. With the proper tools it shouldn't take long. However I have never seen the piano wire done either, I would think you would run the risk of scratching the crap out of the paint.

Anyway, like stated above use WINDSHIELD urethane and not window sealant. Not only does it help with safety issues, but if that windshield pops out due to incorrect installation youa re liable if it injures someone too.
 
Yeah, I know. I was going to use the Window urethane anyway. I used that on my back window. I'm going to use the Pull Knifes... However, where can I find that nice trim....
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The second one? This window place used that on my friends new window on his Eclipse... I like... very low profile and sleek.
 

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I've never seen the trim like the first one. Well, the 'universal' trim looks like that, but it's only a trim, it's not used to hold the windshield in, like the diagram suggests. They'll all use sealant regardless of the 'thickness' of the trim. I actually haven't see under the trim of a 2g in a while, so I don't know what exact size you'd need. I'll check tomorrow at work and post back if you'd like. Where are you buying the window from? Typically if the window needs the trim, it'll be included with the cost of the window.
 
i work for my dad he owns a glass shop and ive done alot of windows in the past 3 years and we use (cold knifes) the pull knifes and a thing called an equalizer an eletric verzion of a knife but you could do it with just the cold knifes and i wouldent use u-418 that is primarly used for holding moldeings in not for the whole window its self. when i replace a window i use 2 to 2 1/2 bottles of urathane you dont want your window to leak. most glass companies skimp there and i use a lay down primer before i lay the urathane down, better bond. some people use piano wire to cut them out. once u have the old window out make sure u scrape down the car window frame get all the old urathane off. then lay ## primer down, then lay down the urathane. when putting the molding it is easiest if u put it on before you put the window down. then put it in on the guides and press the window down make sure urathane grabbes it. then your good. as far as getting a molding you could try ebay but if i couldent get it my self i would contact one of your local glass shops and have them get you one it would probley be like $30. good luck any ? ask me if i was close id help you do it.
 
the best ### is the cold knife if your skileld with it the slightest knick could send a crack right across the window. if you use the piano wire i wouldent use a hanger to get it in there the sides of the window are the weakes part. i had a huge pisce of bulet proof window hit the edge and it spiderd all the way across there was 5,000 down the drain. but i would take a cold knife/L knife and make an insizion and then feed the piano wire thru. use it more toward the frame then right next to the window at least on the donor glass. once its out u can use a flat razor blade and scrape off the excess urathane. and yes dont cheap out on the urathane it is very important to get the good stuff it is made to keep your window in when ## in a crash so it does not become a projectile.
 
To the above poster. I'm doing this on a 1g front window. I've done it on a 2g rear window.

And I will be using the "Cold Knives" I'm going to get two... one with a short blade, and one with a longer one. I heard that makes it easier... one to cut the rubber just a little, the other to finish it off.
 
yea that will be the easiest for you when things get really hairy i have 3 of them but 2 will do the job good luck
 
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