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ECUflash Any one do remote downloadable tunes?

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97gsxmod

Proven Member
106
27
Dec 30, 2023
New haven, Connecticut
Was wondering if anyone here does remote tuning. Seems like if I give someone the specs of my car they should be able to give me a decent base tune. I’m willing to pay if someone knows what there doing.

I altered the tune I had on my car because it seemed wonky but now I’m scared to get into boost with the adjustments I made since I don’t know anything about tuning. My injectors were set to 900cc but the specs I was told when I bought the car were that I had 1200cc injectors so I changed that. The timing was set to -1 I’m assuming just to be one the safe side? But I switched that to 0. And I got rid of all the adjustments to the fuel graph as far as rpm adjustments.

Anyone think they can help? Like I said I’m willing to pay and I just want to make it safe to drive not looking for perfection.

Specs are HX35 turbo set to around 17-20 psi. custom headers, front mount intercooler, fuel pressure regulator set to around 46 psi, 272 exhaust cam, I think the intake cam is stock. Upgraded beehive valve springs (not sure if that matters). I would just play around with it but my air fuel ratio gauge and boost gauge don’t seem to be working so I’m really in the dark. If I can’t find anyone I guess I can just fix the gauges and watch my air fuel ratio while I bring it into boost to make sure I’m in the safe zone and make adjustments to the map graph from there? Or maybe just go back to the tune it was on but after retuning it seems to idle a lot better but not sure if I’m going to have detonation if I get into boost.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
 
You cannot tune, nor drive this car with an unknown tune with a broken wideband. Full stop. Gotta fix it, what model is it? Where is it mounted? Whats the issue?

Now, fixing that ECUFlash is a tough one. I went down the path of blackbox and ECUflash with ceddymods etc. It was a nightmare finding information and it's only even more difficult now. I know you already have the blackbox but I would highly suggest looking at getting link v3. The support is much greater and the learning curve much flatter. I cannot stress how much more I enjoy tuning my car with link vs black box. Now that I've done link I think I could go back and be functional but I never would.

Here is some bookmarks thanks to @jukematt last year: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ceddy-mods-gone.541017/post-153888564

If you choose to stick with ECUflash, you need to find out what injectors you have to start, look for any identifiers on them. Then I would suggest doing the ceddymods method.

Here is a link to get CeddyMods for your ecu, there is also a link below it for a .zip of all the previous ceddymods pages. You'll need to read through those: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ceddy-mods-gone.541017/page-2#posts

In that link there is tons of info on injector scaling, wideband logging etc etc.

I searched for so long for someone to tune my car and this was back when DSM's were a thing and people actually used black box ECU's. I think you will be fairly hard pressed to find someone to do it, but I do wish the best of luck.
 
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I have a link ECU.

My wide band issue I believe is just that I don’t have a wide band I have a narrow band. But there seems to be a extra wire already ran to the 02 sensor but not attached so I assume this is for installing the wide band since a air fuel ratio gauge was installed but not the wide band yet. I have a AEM air fuel gauge. Think it’s a lambda type. Will any AEM wide band work with this or do I need a specific type that matches my gauge?

Other issue is I don’t know if the gauge or the O2 sensor is pinned to my ECU. And yes you’re correct it’s been a nightmare trying to find a tuner even with a link ECU. But the software seems relatively straight forward as far as tuning goes but I'm definitely a novice to say the least. But I’m confident enough that if I get my wide band set up I should be able to at tune it my self to at least get it into the proper air fuel ratios to avoid detonating.

So if I wasn’t clear what I was hopping to find was someone with DSMLink (or ECMLink?) who has similar specs to my cars. Could in theory just have them send me a file of their tune and I can put it on my laptop and download it to my ECU?
 
No, you shouldn't just copy a tune as they are all different even if the setup is the same. You can contact Rick at Rix Racing. He does remote tuning for both DSMLink and ECUFlash

 
You are wildly reaching and stating clearly inaccurate things here. You cannot copy an ECMlink map to ECUflash. Listen and read to what others have already stated, including the posts they linked to. It is obvious you don't know a lot of the basics. Unless you are going to pay to have someone tune it remotely, you have a lot of catchup to do.

Even if you do pay someone to remote tune your car, if it's anything more than a base map, you or someone else will need to do a lot of prepwork and fixes before it can be tuned remotely (OR IN PERSON).
 
I have a link ECU.

My wide band issue I believe is just that I don’t have a wide band I have a narrow band. But there seems to be a extra wire already ran to the 02 sensor but not attached so I assume this is for installing the wide band since a air fuel ratio gauge was installed but not the wide band yet. I have a AEM air fuel gauge. Think it’s a lambda type. Will any AEM wide band work with this or do I need a specific type that matches my gauge?

Other issue is I don’t know if the gauge or the O2 sensor is pinned to my ECU. And yes you’re correct it’s been a nightmare trying to find a tuner even with a link ECU. But the software seems relatively straight forward as far as tuning goes but I'm definitely a novice to say the least. But I’m confident enough that if I get my wide band set up I should be able to at tune it my self to at least get it into the proper air fuel ratios to avoid detonating.

So if I wasn’t clear what I was hopping to find was someone with DSMLink (or ECMLink?) who has similar specs to my cars. Could in theory just have them send me a file of their tune and I can put it on my laptop and download it to my ECU?
Okay I think I've got you. The thread was mislabeled as ECUFlash which is a different tuning platform than ECMLink (DSMLink).

Happy to hear you have link. Is it v3? Have you updated the ECU's firmware using the online generator on ecuflashes website?

As far as the file to tune your car, there are so many variables within builds it would be relatively impossible to do, along with there being more than one way to skin a cat in regards to tuning. Some are better than others and I'll leave it at that.

Are you using MAF? If so is it stock or GM? If not, speed density?

What modifications do you have? Have you watched all of these videos start to finish without dozing off or looking at your phone? https://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php

If you provide a VERY comprehensive list from your car of modifications, injectors, etc I can assist with providing a base that should allow you to at least start your car, but if you watch those videos you shouldn't have an issue being able to do it yourself. I'm not a link expert, in fact I'm still fighting my cold start but I'm currently re-tuning my car from scratch (unreal difference this go around) so it's all pretty fresh in my head.

As far as your other question, yes the sensor matters depending what model you have. There will be a number stamped on the back and you are going to need to learn about lambda if it is one https://www.aemelectronics.com/blog/post/all_about_widebands/.

Lastly post a log and I'll take a quick peak through your settings.
 
Thanks guys!

Yea I realized flash tune wasn’t the right terminology. I’m on DSMLink v3 and I’m running a MAF not speed density. I believe my settings were set to GM so assuming that’s what I got for mass air flow sensor but what’s making this so much more difficult is the fact that I didn’t do the build on this car and the previous owner isn’t responding to my inquiries about the specs.

I think I’m going to start by getting this air fuel gauge to work properly then I’ll reach out to one of you to pay for a remote tune. The car came tuned and we did a rip in it when I test drove it before I bought it but it won’t hold idle anymore. It used to but I think maybe because I bought it in the colder months and it’s warmer now?

So I went through the tune and set some things back to stock. Timing was at -1 across the board and I put that back to 0, fuel injectors were set to 900cc but the build sheet I got said they were 1200cc so I set those to 1200cc, raised the idle rpm to 1100, and set all the charts back to base line. I believe it was the fuel to rpm chart and fuel to coolant temp charts that I reset to base line. The new tune I made got the car to hold idle but now I’m scared to take it past 3000 rpm. I’ll get the air fuel gauge working then I’ll get back to one of you to pay for a remote tune.

Thanks for the information everyone 🙏
 
Thanks guys! Yea I realized flash tune wasn’t the right terminology. I’m on dsm link 3 and I’m running a maf not speed density. I believe my settings were set to gm so assuming that’s what I got for mas air flow sensor but what’s making this so much more difficult is the fact that I didn’t do the build on this car and the previous owner isn’t responding to my inquiries about the specs. I think I’m going to start by getting this air fuel gauge to work properly then I’ll reach out to one of you to pay for a remote tune. The car came tuned and we did a rip in it when I test drove it before I bought it but it won’t hold idle anymore. It used to but I think maybe because I bought it in the colder months and it’s warmer now?.
so I went through the tune and set some things back to stock. timing was at -1 across the board and I put that back to 0, fuel injectors were set to 900cc but the build sheet I got said they were 1200cc so I set those to 1200cc, raised the idle rpm to 1100, and set all the charts back to base line. I believe it was the fuel to rpm chart and fuel to coolant temp charts that I reset to base line. The new tune I made got the car to hold idle but now I’m scared to take it past 3000 rpm. I’ll get the air fuel gauge working then I’ll get back to one of you to pay for a remote tune. Thanks for the information everyone 🙏
post a loooooooooog
 
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