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Any DSM meets in San Diego

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I wish everyone was like Kris
I wish everyone was like Kris too. Whenever something goes wrong with my car I could just call all my Kris's and they could all build it for me, it would be like a big ass pit crew.

the blocking off the FIAV is almost required for getting the car to idle properly if you do the throttle body coolant bypass, and even with it operating my car would idle at 3k rpm cold which was horribly annoying. with out coolant flowing through the throttle body the FIAV will stay open due to be being mechanically controlled.
The FIAV (fast idle air valve) is there to provide additional air when the engine is cold to increase the idle speed, which in turn, warms up the engine faster. The coolant flows around a spring, which is in the FIAV. As the coolant temperature increases, the spring expands which slowly decreases the amount of extra air that goes into the engine.

Like I mentioned in one of my above posts you can manually close the FIAV after doing the coolant bypass by closing the spring completely, here are pictures. This is only useful if of course you don't have a FIAV bypass plate installed, if you do then none of this matters. This is the FREE and easy way to affectively do the coolant bypass.

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All in all the idle surge problems are gone.

On to better and greater things now. at 15ish psi i'm maxing out the maf in second gear, however in third it doesnt even get close. ( two mafs showing near identical results )

current custom settings in dsmlink>

800 rpm idle
Knock sensor disabled unless over 30% throttle and 3500 rpm ( Phanthom knock backing timing off by 17 degree's at low throttle/rpm, confirmed phantom by slowing coming up in rpm to see what rpm it would occur at in different gears, which turned out to be 2750~3400 rpm and less than 30 % throttle )

no fuel or timing changes as of yet, and its near impossible to make any thing richer because in second gear the IDC is at 98% with a maf reading of 1680 hz

mind you this is all on a 14b.
Running 15psi on a 14b I have a hard time believing your even maxing out a 1g MAF. The 1g MAF starts giving false readings to the ECU at upwards of 2000Hz which is roughly 28 lbs/min, the most I've seen anyone flow on a 14b is 33 lbs/min and 25psi of boost. My guess is that your MAFComp sliders need adjustment...

You can use Kris like a Thai whore for this or you can use ECMLink's demo videos and try to figure it out yourself. ECMTuning, Inc. Demo Videos

dang I got mike spit on my butthole now. if you really want a cheaper price Mike stop kissing the business end and kiss the pleasure end ]
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ROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFL

Looks like a big ass Hoover vac.

:dsm:
 

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the only reason i ended up blocking off the fiav in this case is because i was unable to turn that valve. the plastic that you see in the above picture broke every time i tried turning it( i tried both ways just in case i was being stupid and it was possibly reverse thread?

in the end that wasnt the route i was able to go as all four of the turn points broke off.

currently as of this morning the car warmed up to 180 degrees in approx 2.5 min. which imo is plenty quick, mind you this is sitting there and letting it idle to operating them. had i taken off it would have taken more or less to the end of the street.

I also have a hard time believing that the 14b is maxing out the maf or even getting close. however today i did a wot pull in second and saw the turbo spout up to 22psi, so i might be getting close, 3rd gear it stayed at around 15...

End all be all... i think the cheapy ebay boost controler needs to get removed for a halman or JoeP mbc

the fueling for the current air flow is nearly dead on for what i can tell aside from being a smidge rich ( 10.7-10.9:1 ) which would make perfect sense considering I'm running a 2g FPR and forgot to set the fueling adjustment to reflect that

------------------------------------------

question about cooling:

how hot should the car get during your average 90 degree day witha 180 deg thermostat? according to the logs i have the car has seen 250+ deg which cant be right
 
alrighty guys HTA 68 from FP , i see corey is running one. and he has the exact hp i would want by maxing it out. I believe i will be buying this turbo the second this motor i have finally finds a new owner.

I will be converting the car to full speed density once i get back from this cruise. i will probably be much happier with that considering at least the software would feel like MS stuff( not only that but i just love speed density )
 
you know, some of us arent as lucky as you are to be going on a cruise, and buying all these wonderful parts for our cars.... GRRRRRR

anyways, so how was everyones mothers day?

On a side note, i know i was asking you Corey but anyones help would be awesome... My passenger seat doesnt like to keep its position anymore. I break, it slides forward, i accelerate and it slides back, person it in or not now. Started to do it without a person today, wasnt happy about it. So is there a way to fix it or do i need to actually replace the seat?
 
you know, some of us arent as lucky as you are to be going on a cruise, and buying all these wonderful parts for our cars.... GRRRRRR

anyways, so how was everyones mothers day?

On a side note, i know i was asking you Corey but anyones help would be awesome... My passenger seat doesnt like to keep its position anymore. I break, it slides forward, i accelerate and it slides back, person it in or not now. Started to do it without a person today, wasnt happy about it. So is there a way to fix it or do i need to actually replace the seat?

I'd like to know the same...mine is starting to get like that...maybe it's just an issue for spyders LOL
 
Maybe our spyders were good friends in a previous lifetime, interesting idea... But yeah it sucks, and my drivers side is broken also and slowly getting worse
 
Its not the seat, its the bracket that holds the seat in place. Pull the seat out (4 14mm bolts) and then flip it upside down then look at how its engineered to "hold" the seat in place. I'm sure some WD-40 sprayed on every moving part would fix the problem but you won't know until you get in there and look around. Posting problems on the forum looking for answers isn't always the way to solve simple mechanical issues... Who knows? 10 years ago the previous owners ex-girlfriend might have been eating a pack of gummy bears and dropped one. Then lucky you, the gummy bear got caught in the seat bracket and know it won't lock into place.

:dsm:
 
I dunno if i'm lucky or not zefal, you gotta remember i'm parting out a cobra with over 14k in parts because it had become too much for me ( life wise not power ).

only reason i went dsm is so i could have a little fun, i know them well and i dont need slicks if i want to take it to the track. did i mention i can drive it on the street without getting pulled over within 30 seconds LOL.

the parts only roll in when i sell parts off the cobra, and if i cant sell the motor nothing else is happening for a while untill it does. I still have a shell to get rid of too on top of that.


also i think the dsm being as short as it is has killed my back ( having a hard time walking around and turning to the right is impossible ) Yey for back problems!
 
Well, in my stupidity, if i thought it was that easy i wouldnt have asked and have already done it myself. I figured it was the seat itself due to the Drivers seat being broken as well, and THAT i know is a seat issue and not a bracket...

As far as the gummy bear is concerned... im going to really hate you if i pull out the seat and actually find a gummy bear in there, would be really creepy and just mean

Gufi, i hear yah, i know you had to part out the cobra to get all of it... as far as the back problems, that sucks... im glad that i havent had any as of yet from my seats
 
ya.. the cobra... im at a huge loss on it and its really sad to slay a cobra like this. but it has to be done.

as far as your seats go... just like corey said, its probably the locking piece that is sticking or it may be worn out. hopefully just sticking. my 91 did it too, i ended up having to pull it out and wiggle the arm that lets you move it while spraying it with WD-40 to fix it, it did come back a year later however.

if you find a gummy bear... take pics... thats epic
 
dang I got mike spit on my butthole now. if you really want a cheaper price Mike stop kissing the business end and kiss the pleasure end ]
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Lmao nah man, I'm not saying that to get a cheaper price for anything. Because honestly there's thousands needed to be done for the vr4 and gst in the future that you'll be doing. I just wanna let u know that your doing a good Job and I appreciate your help and hard work you've done for me so far. Plus to imagine a pit crew of Kris's would be pretty freaking awesome! Haha

So may 21st is the next meet then? Whats the time for That?


Lol saw this and thought it was pretty funny

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/402056-corvette-trying-steal-show.html
 
LOL, i dont think it was obvious enough... maybe larger next time?
 
Well if he doesn't get it this time we should all just spam the info to his phone LOL
 
Dammit why the hell is it so early. I work all morning that day and all night. The only free window Of time i have for that day is from 4pm till midnight. This sucks. Looks like I can't make this meet either then..
 
Hmm, so.... whats new and exciting in the SD world today? Im bored at work, LOL

BTW Corey, i remember you saying the JDM Galant knuckles would bolt right up and hold the Evo brakes with no modification or something like that, but its expensive as hell to ship... was wondering what the cost would be to ship from Base in Oki to here? My bro is over there right now and could order some, and hes planning on coming home on leave in Sept, but could ship em back as well... might be an option if its easier for Military to ship
 
You could go with knuckles or contact KMV here. He fabricates brackets that will let you bolt them up and it'll cost a lot less

Thats what I got LOL
 
Ive seen the brackets, and ive seen what Corey had to do to his Brembo, and saw the disaster it left in his garage, lets just say i feel bad for whoever has to work in there
 
Makes me wonder what I'll be getting myself into once I find some new wheels:hmm:
 
Lets just say that i believe Corey was still pulling out metal shavings and splinters from his hands when he went with me to take pics
 
Damn....well I guess I'll have wrap myself up pretty well then
 
Dammit why the hell is it so early. I work all morning that day and all night. The only free window Of time i have for that day is from 4pm till midnight. This sucks. Looks like I can't make this meet either then..
Sounds like Kris and I are scheduling our meets perfect then Mike. :thumb: Its actually a drag race event, its not an actual DSM meet...
BTW Corey, i remember you saying the JDM Galant knuckles would bolt right up and hold the Evo brakes with no modification or something like that, but its expensive as hell to ship... was wondering what the cost would be to ship from Base in Oki to here? My bro is over there right now and could order some, and hes planning on coming home on leave in Sept, but could ship em back as well... might be an option if its easier for Military to ship
I've never shipped from Japan, your brother would have to get a quote from the bases Post Office. Heres a link to RHD Japans galant knuckles, you can see my comment below too from back in the day. Mitsubishi OEM Steering Knuckles Galant'
Its $166.56 a side, obviously you'll need the FL and FR knuckles, then shipping to the states is $135 through FedEx. This leaves you spending about $470.00 to get them to your door step. If you ask me, WORTH IT!
Damn....well I guess I'll have wrap myself up pretty well then
The brackets costs $100 - $125, the double carbide bit to grind everything was $25, and the M14 x 1.5 tap was another $25. On top of all that you've got to grind your nice Brembo calipers up AND lower the integrity of your OE knuckle, who knows how much its actually weakening it. If you don't have an air compressor, die grinder, or 12 hours of install time it makes getting the brackets even less practical. On top of that, I've cleaned my garage about a dozen times since I did the grinding just for one side and I'm still pulling small metal shavings out of my feet everytime I go out in the garage without shoes. #### those adapter brackets, I only say that because I'm passionate about how shitty of an install it was. It's your deal but I'll be the guinnea pig on this but here it is... sell your brackets and save yourself who knows how much trouble, just get the JDM Galant knuckles and be done with it.

:dsm:
 
Lol, i will ext him and see how much it is to get them shipped... if its cheaper then Fed Ex, wanna see about doing a group buy?
 
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