Any bolt ons missing from my setup

[Malero5]

This summer I will be running this list of mods.


Evo III 16g on racing gas, ported
3" turbo back
DSM Link
2g Mas
HKS 264/264 cams
Ported Intake manifold
Decent FMIC
custom piping (might put Mas after intercooler for better readings, we will see)
HKS dual stage BOV
2 12" slimline fans
670 (I think this is FIC's size) injectors
Walboro 255
Aeromotive AFPR
Ported SBR manifold with external Tial wastegate

Nicely built motor:1mm oversized valves, ARP all around, machined rods/topline pistons (between the compression of 2g and 1g), new water pump/oil pump/belt (the usual stuff you should change).

Iw ill be running on 17lb rims 16X7 on slicks.


Other then an LSD and a new air intake, what do i need?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

doesn't look like it except perhaps a bigger turbo.. (just a thought since everything else looks like its setup to support one of the bigger turbo setups)

 

[Malero5]

I am shooting for 30 psi on the EVO and around 415 WHP....we will see. I need th block to last atleast 60k miles to get through college then im off to build a new car.

 

[sweet97]

You better get a 50 trim for 415whp. FIC's come in 650's and are my choice for a decent priced injector. 750's might be better since you will have DSMlink anyways, maybe bigger. Scat forged and Wiseco's can be had for $709. or so. GM MAF flows more than a 2G mas. 264's are not enough cam, if you insist on HKS get the 272's as they idle nicely and make more power, no ill effects. For a little more bump get the Crower stage 4's, #64415. I have a set on the way. The 272's have 213* duration at .050" in/out with lift of .406"/.386". The Crowers have 216*/218* duration in/out with lifts of .425"/.416". and cost $75. less than HKS.
Ported/extrude honed intake is about $300. and you can get a JM SMIM for $450. The SBR cast exhaust does look nice. I use 9:1 Wiseco's and have no problems. NGK blue wires are half the cost of Magnacores and have a wicked spark. Of course NGK BPR7ES plugs at .026" or so gap=or-2*. Mark
The import evolution bolt on FTS AFPR is what I use and have had no trouble, $155. Good Luck-What are ytou taking in school-major/minor?

 

[krisj144]

why are you trying to max out a 16g on race gas to get 400+?
you'd be much better off with a larger turbo as you're way out of this ones efficiency range.

a 16g is really silly to run with an external wastegate too. no real benefit there for you other than a lighter wallet. you'd be better served by a 2g or evo3 exhaust manifold as well.

Additionally, I'd save the money on the HK$ bov and run a stocker.

also, oversized valves are over-kill on this setup and if you're rebuilding the engine or money is no object I'd toss the topline crap and get a real set of forged rods / pistons like crower / ross or eagle / weisco.

Seems to me as if you're spending money in some places that is wasteful and not spending it in others where it would make more of an effect.

 

[92awddsm]

And you cant run the 2g mas after the ic. It has to be in the original position and set up as draw thru in order to function properly. If you want the mas after the ic, you will need to use a gm maf with maft.

 

[krisj144]

(might put Mas after intercooler for better readings, we will see)

how did I miss that? yeah, definately not a good idea.

 

[sweet97]

1. Get the strongest shortblock you can afford.
2. Choose a turbo that is in it's sweet spot making 400whp, not straining, like a 50 trim or even a 60-1.
3. injectors can be 950's with DSMlink for growth with no extra cost.
4. Stock intake is OK
5. Check out the www.dejonpowerhouse.com exhausts as he has a few to choose from with one being an 02 eliminator at low prices.
6. Cams-Crower stage 3 are around the HKS 272's but save at least $50. with a bit more power.
7. You won't need an o2 housing with the Dejon exhaust and like 92awddsm said a ported 2G works well but if you have the $ go for the SBR model.
8. FMIC's sem to be a part guys want to skimp on, not sure why as they cool the charge air allowing a leaner mix, more timing and more boost all without knock with proper tuning. I use the Spearco 2-221 bottom to top flow w/short route piping. I also have a ColdAirIntake. I wrap the intake pipe and upper IC piping in header wrap to keep that charge air as cool as possible since my FMIC is not the most efficient though it flows 1080CFM and fits my needs perfectly. I like the Bullseye 1G short route FMIC, new and nice routing of the air causing it to use the whols IC rather than having the inlet and outlet directly across from each other so that the air wants to take the shortest route and not use a good part of the IC if not needed.
Your beginning cash base would dictate the order in which you get the parts. mark

 

[Malero5]

I went with the machined rods/top line for several reasons. I did not want any piston slack and Alot of the aftermarket pistons have issues with reliability overtime (especially wiescos). I am not out to make much more then 400 WHP and if you look at the numbers the 272's make 4 more HP on an evo III. The stock BOV will not hold more then 30psi and if you read what SBR is doing with the EVO III on the turbo testing then you will notic what happens at 28 psi (the internal wastgate has problems). This car is only going to be around 280 WHP on the street and I only intend to put racegas/change dsmlink at the track.


Also, I built this car around running the EVO III for the next few years. Once I get out of college I will be doing a full rebuild and a new turbo setup (hence why alot of my parets are overkill for the EVO). Lol the rebuild cost me 3500 dollars and I did allt he work myself. I finally got the block broken in and it feels awesome (BTW I am about to get the FMIC installed and im doing the fuel pump in a week. I have all the parts except DSM link/eprom ECU/injectors) I really just wanted to know if there was anything I could get that owuld help me some. Thanks though for the info on the 2g...if I do decide to re locate the MAS ill go with a 3 inch.

BTW the EVO III responds realy well to race gas and is quit compareable to the 50 trims.

 

[daren_p]

I'd defently up the injectors, with dsmlink go large so you don't need to upgrade in the future, the price difference between 650 & say 950's is minimal. For cams since it seems like you don't want the larger 272/272 combo, maybe you want to think about the 264/272 combo. With your setup you should be able to make low to mid 300's on the street, no problem.

 

[dsmsucks]

how did I miss that? yeah, definately not a good idea.

I think he means connect the maf between the bov and tb but not before the turbo

 

[dsm-onster]

I would seriously look at other cams. for your goals... If you're going to spend money in the HKS bracket get the more aggressive cams. They idle just fine and many don't mind the minimal losses down low.

Also, with dsmlink, you can raise your revlimit. So look at cams that give you more up top and get a set of springs to match. I have a pair of FP2Xs. They are like 272s, but with more power down low AND up higher than the 272s (a higher lift & higher ramp rate). I have been running SBR recommended manley springs with the stock, original retainers for sometime now at an 8500 rpm rev limit. No problems as of yet. SBR says I can take the FP2X profile to 8500 rpms with the Manley springs "all day long". This cam and spring combo costs a little less than just the HKS 272s. And you have FPs reputation to boot.

I have a very similar setup to what you're getting. My 18g is very much like your evo3 16g. I am very satisfied and have beaten cars so far that would suggest that i am in the 400whp range... I need a dyno run, but my throwout bearing came loose recently and i havn't had a chance to get her back on the road.

...and seriously look at water/alky injection. The nitrous controls on DSMLink can be configured to control your injection points. Or just get a $30 hobbs switch from Napa to have it controlled by boost.

 

[kottyking]

I am shooting for 30 psi on the EVO and around 415 WHP....we will see. I need th block to last atleast 60k miles to get through college then im off to build a new car.

Ok heres what I dont understand. Your goal is for is for 415 whp on 30 psi, but your sooo set on the evo turbo? You NEED a bigger turbo if you want this goal. I'm sure it could be done but thats working that turbo so damn hard its not even funny. Good luck to ya either way.

 

[dsm-onster]

Ok heres what I dont understand. Your goal is for is for 415 whp on 30 psi, but your sooo set on the evo turbo? You NEED a bigger turbo if you want this goal. I'm sure it could be done but thats working that turbo so damn hard its not even funny. Good luck to ya either way.

Man, that's what I've been preaching ever since slow boy anounced their 400whp evo3 powered dsm. Yes it can be done. Yes it spools hellatiously quick. but come on. Most of us don't have the tools and/or the know how to squeeze that much out of this turbo. It will do it but for almost as cheap you can get a turbo that spools nearly as fast and has more room than running on the ragged edge. If you ewant 400 whp get a damn 50trim or 20g. don't fart around with an evo3.

No offence to Malero5... but why blow up a perfectly good turbo by overreving for a year or two? Especially now with the bolt on 50 trims. They're cheaper than the 20gs (which have come down in price substancially). According to the Forced Performance compressor map of the evo3 16g and assuming a conservative 15% drivetrain loss, at 415 whp @ 30 psi. you are completely off the entire compressor map and spinning a larger wheel at almost 150,000 rpms .

 

[kottyking]

Man, that's what I've been preaching ever since slow boy anounced their 400whp evo3 powered dsm. Yes it can be done. Yes it spools hellatiously quick. but come on. Most of us don't have the tools and/or the know how to squeeze that much out of this turbo. It will do it but for almost as cheap you can get a turbo that spools nearly as fast and has more room than running on the ragged edge. If you ewant 400 whp get a damn 50trim or 20g. don't fart around with an evo3.

No offence to Malero5... but why blow up a perfectly good turbo by overreving for a year or two? Especially now with the bolt on 50 trims. They're cheaper than the 20gs (which have come down in price substancially). According to the Forced Performance compressor map of the evo3 16g and assuming a conservative 15% drivetrain loss, at 415 whp @ 30 psi. you are completely off the entire compressor map and spinning a larger wheel at almost 150,000 rpms .

Amen.Amen.

 

[skinnykenny84]

I am a huge fan of the evo111 but I agree with these guys you need a more effecient turbo. You could actually save some $ if get that eprom your gonna buy chipped instead of going with dsmlink. Sounds like your not gonna be making alot of changes once you get it right. The money you would save and the money you could get for your turbo would justify buying a bigger turbo. www.dsmchips.com

 

[sweet97]

Andy Moraitis who is one of the wisemen here has a big 16G, not the EVO just the old 16G. NO afpr, NO AFC, NO MAFT, no fuel management. His mods are a 3" exhaust, 190 Walbro, 550cc inj's and the forementioned 16G. His best time is a 12.57 at something like 109MPH. He is AWD and his most major mod is an EPROM ECU with a KEYDIVER with the timing and A/F bburned in.
You could take an EVO which flows a couple of lbs. more and with a couple of more mods hit an 11. Oh Andy has an upgraded side mount.
1. EVO III 16G
2. 650cc inj's'AFPR-I use the cheap bolt on from import evolutiion and love it!
3. MAFT or EPROM/BOTH BETTER!
4. 3" exhaust-check out the www.dejonpowerhouse.com which eliminates the 02 housing
5. Small FMIC like the dejon street FMIC
6. Don't be afraid of cams and for $ sake I would go with the Crower stage 3, similar to the HKS 272's. They will be there for the upgrade after school. Yeah 3 HP over the other set-up on that automoto test. They also said the HKS 272's were the best choice if I remember correctly and again they will still be good when you upgrade and if you have the will power to stay with the EVO for 4 years I congratulate you! I just sold my 272's because they were too mild. With tuning they idle without lope. They will pull to 7500 on the stock springs, maybe a couple hundred rpm's more.
That is an 11 sec set-up with the EVO as the turbo. mark

 

[Turbocharged]

You'll want bigger injectors and a bigger turbo. An evo III is not efficient to 30 psi. You will be blowing a ton of hot air. If you MUST have an evo III, look into water injection to help quench those intake charge temperatures. I built my water injection system for a little over $100. It made a bigger difference than my spearco FMIC in terms of tunability.

What are you running for an O2 housing? Tubular housings are nice and can be found cheap.

 

[WatchItExplode]

You may already own the wheels, but if not, it's easy to find 16x7" wheels lighter than 17 lbs. and affordable. The 5Zigens I'm getting are 17x8" and 17 lbs. Try http://www.wheelweights.net/ for some ideas.

 

[kottyking]

yeah, you also said you rebuilt your engine for an evo 3 16g, when a stock rebuild could handle that turbo just fine.

 

[JessesTalon]

Ummm I sugeest after adding all that power to upgrade your brakes, suspension and tires if u have not already... engine wise it looks nice

 

[Malero5]

I had 133,000 miles on my old car and I couldnt have any unschedualed downtime (I work fulltime and go to school). So I kept driving my old car when I rebuilt it, then I sold it. The car is built to handle about 400 WHP and last 60-100k miles. Ill never shift past 7800. Just trying to build a low twelve second car and keep it awhile

 

[dsm-onster]

I had 133,000 miles on my old car and I couldnt have any unschedualed downtime (I work fulltime and go to school). So I kept driving my old car when I rebuilt it, then I sold it. The car is built to handle about 400 WHP and last 60-100k miles. Ill never shift past 7800. Just trying to build a low twelve second car and keep it awhile

And your transmission will love (and repay) you for it. we're just giving you insite on your setup for which you asked. You can handle way more than an EVO. Why limit yourself. If anything, an evo3 at that boost is harder on your built engine than a bigger turbo because of the increase in charge temperatures; due to the fact that it has to spin so high to maintane the boost you'll be requiring out of it. Guys go to bigger turbos so that they'll last a while on their built setups not just because "the turbo can blow that much air". You (and your build) deserve a bigger turbo. That is the "bolt-on that you're missing from your setup". You did a real good job not purcahsing things that you'll have to upgrade later. Also, having the "while-you're-in-there" fever. That is a +1 for getting everything straight the first time. Planned boost is less dangerous with a big turbo than a small. If you plan on running 30psi, plan on a turbo that can handle that comfortably. Spool is a downshift away. A quick spool is not indicative of high torque or horsepower. Would you like to bust your a$$ and nearly have a heart attack to meet your goals? Would you really be happy if you did? Now. . . . would your turbo be happy, too. It's not fair to your turbo. Get a bigger turbo.

 

[Turbocharged]

Youll probably need a new turbo if you spin the 16g to 30psi too often.