SasaniFab
Proven Member
- 2,433
- 782
- Dec 1, 2013
-
Mexico,
Connecticut
I’m wrapping up another engine build for a friend who destroyed the last motor I built because he didn’t listen and shut off the knock sensor in ecmlink. Needless to say an injector wasn’t up to snuff and he destroyed two pistons. The engine made mid 500 who knocking like a diesel. He plans to keep this conservative and in one piece for the foreseeable future. I use the same specs on all of my motors as I’ve had great luck. I have the block sent out to be decked, When I get it back I clean out every thread and blow them out thoroughly. Most important the head and mains. I use a two step process for measuring, I always make sure everything is at room temperature when doing this as I’ve had issues in the winter when a crank had been sitting outside in the garage. I mic and dial bore gauge everything and come back and verify with plastigauge. All of the cranks I’ve used have been at the end of spec .003 or so after polishing. The ptw clearances I keep at .004-.0045 with Wiseco hds , this motor has wiseco hds with eagle rods with 625 rod bolts. For the ring gap I shoot for .022 top .02/3 bottom. I’ve noticed with a .0045 ptw clearance the compression ring is basically to spec with some minor massaging. As far as the head , I torque the head down to 105-110 ftlbs with arps. I load the washers first then install the studs with a ratchet , I torque them tight so they seat 100% and loosen them and torque them back hand tight. I Install the studs dry, if you cleaned the block appropriately when you install the studs in the block oil won’t seep out Onto the deck surface..... I hate that! Before you install the timing belt make sure you fill the engine with oil and spin the oil pump gear to prime the motor prior to starting it. I usually run 5 quarts of cheap oil through. Think that about covers it ...