am i ready to run e85

[yeti-gvr4]

Alright so I have a rewired walbro 255lph and PTE 1000cc injectors, aero AFPR,

Am I missing anything to start tuning on e85.

The main reson I want to switch is because of knock I'm getting know now after anything past 10psi. So I would rather just learn to tune on e85 then rather tune around knock then once on e85 have to rreverse all the timimg adjustments made.

Just to clear it up.

For initial set up right after you put e85 in tank and dial in injectors is there anything else to do before starting the car.

So just 2 queations if I need anything MORE to my existing fuel system to run e85 and what is the initial set up just change injectors?

But I'm geussing you will have to change fuel to change the stoichemetric ratio.

 

[phunny]

You on the ECMlink forums?

 

[flyineagletsi]

Something is majorly wrong with your car if your getting knock at 10psi on a 16g. E85 wont help that any. Get your car running properly first and save 10 billion hours of headache later.

I see you have V3. Would you mind posting up a log with the knock?

 

[1990TalonFast]

Well check your knock sensor and try to get that knock count fixed, if all thats fixed than youll e fine for running e85.

Injectors, 1000cc are fine for your 16g
Fuel pump
Tuning
-6AN fuel lines

Add 30% fuel to your mixture

 

[yeti-gvr4]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/log-file-advice/405306-idle-log-why-did-i-stall.html

All the way at the bottom labeled WOT LOG.

Would greatly appreciate any insight, and advice thank you
Colin.

 

[scott90gsx420]

Well if your going to run E-85 id say get braided steel lines from the tank forward.. And you need to figuer out why your knocking at such a low boost level first.. I run 22 on a Big 16g on pump and have no knock..
Check your knock sensor is it all slimy?? Is it torqued properly.. And do you have any phantom knock such as noisy lifters rattling exhaust??

 

[scott90gsx420]

Well if your going to run E-85 id say get braided steel lines from the tank forward.. And you need to figuer out why your knocking at such a low boost level first.. I run 22 on a Big 16g on pump and have no knock..
Check your knock sensor is it all slimy?? Is it torqued properly.. And do you have any phantom knock such as noisy lifters rattling exhaust??

 

[bryTSi]

Definately need to swap out the fuel filter, I've seen many cases where the ethanol just eats up the filter and turns it to goop.

Check out some of STM's kits for fuel, they have a whole tank-to-rail kit that comes with a new fuel filter... there's also many of other companies that sell a whole fuel bundle.

 

[yeti-gvr4]

My knock snesor is bad I can see the screw on the back of it and all the goop is melted out it looks like.

So is all of this the wrong readings?

And to replace that sensor its just simply unscrew and retorque.?

 

[scott90gsx420]

Oh ya knock sensors are very known for causing fake knock when they get like that.. Id put money on that being the problem.. And ye remove old put in new torque down and boost/retune .

 

[yeti-gvr4]

Ok and do I have to worry about busting the sensor off in there or basically just find a wrench that fits and start turning.

Also I go into open loop and run ruich everytime I got WOT.

And I don't get knock all the time only under WOT condition usually.

 

[Imback]

Please do a little more research so your questions aren't very vague..

 

[Boost Freak 3]

agreed on the fuel filter a great upgrade to have. Buy a few extra filter cause e85 likes to clean the junk out of your tank... at least for me it did.

 

[dexterholland04]

The Fuel Lab metal or fiberglass fuel filters work nicely with E85.

 

[skatershawn]

Fuel lines are always a nice upgrade especially if you are planning to go bigger, but are not necessary at your level! If you dont have the money to spend of them now, it wont hurt to run e85 now till you can upgrade!

A better flowing fuel filter is also a wonderful upgrade, but again not necessary! I would first buy a few oem style filters to use while you first start running e85 because it is true, the filter will clog with gunk. I would rather waste the cheap ones than waste a nice metal filter!

BUT as for your knock, 10psi on a 16g is not an area where you should be seeing ANY knock! I would check the knock sensor make sure that it is bad, then replace it! That should take care of that issue and then you can either run you 1000's on 91-93 pump or do your upgrade to e85 if its what you desire!
Also the PTE 1000cc's actual flow is more around 960cc's.
(infomation found one ECM Tuning)

And running rich at WOT is normal, What is you A/F ratio at WOT?
It should be 10.7-11.5 depending what you like to run!
I would try to keep it around 11.1-11.5, and for e85 it would be a different number!

 

[yeti-gvr4]

my afr at WOT is 10.5-11.4 sometimes i go as rich as 9.5

and also i sky rocket lean after i let off the throttle like to 18.0 or sometimes 21.9

and doesent ECMlink say the PTE 1000cc flow about 940cc

ok so i lowered boost and timing and am getting .7 knock retard at 100% throttle 12psi and 9.5 AFR

can i be detonating because of running so rich.

when i do get knock i can physicaly feel it as the car some what stumbles but not enough to really effect the pull just enough for me to notice something went wrong. and sometimes its strong enoguh to cut out but not fully..

should i replace knock sensor 1st before anything else.

and also i read a write up on knock sensor removal do i really need to remove all of that stuff, i donty have a ac condensor so can i just get at it from that side.

and can i test the knock sensor with a multi meter once its out?

and i dont get knock randomly its only during pulls or right after i let off throttle.

 

[lil corb]

When I removed the knock sensor on my 1G (it was all gooey). I had to remove the bracket that bolts under the Intake manifold and use a 22mm (I believe) wrench. It's small turns at a time but that'll probably solve your phantom knock issues. Also do you see a lot of black smoke when the afr hits at 9.5?

 

[flyineagletsi]

Yes you can rich knock but from the sounds of it, your sensor may be bad anyways so just replace that little dude. Also a very real concern for the rich conditions and knock would be bad boost leaks. < Fix all of those before trying to tune your car. If not, you will waste every bit of time you spend trying to tune around an issue. That 16g is still asleep at 10 psi or even 12 for that matter. Just take the time to get everything right before you complicate the situation further.

 

[skatershawn]

and doesent ECMlink say the PTE 1000cc flow about 940cc

I stand corrected. I knew it was either 960 or 940, but wasn't completely sure, sorry for the false information!

I agree with flyineagletsi on the boost leaks, there is something wrong with you getting rich readings.
I say replace knock sensor, because there should be little reason why you are getting knock at 10psi on a 16g, a 14b is barely waking up at 10psi.

And you haven't put in the pte 1000's yet?
To answer a question from you first post (haven't seen it answered):
To run the pte 1000's you need to set you global % to -51%(for 91-93 pump) and between -33%(1000cc's) and -27%(940cc's, for actual flow of PTE 1000's).

Also its normal to lean all the way out when you let off the gas, its because you have cut the fuel delivery.
Your A/F being at 10.5-11.4 is good, try to figure out why its shooting to 9.5(fix knock sensor and check for boost leaks).
And yes it is possible to get knock from rich conditions but it is uncommon in most cases!

Im sure there is a way to check the knock sensor, i just don't know the values.

 

[snowborder714]

my afr at WOT is 10.5-11.4 sometimes i go as rich as 9.5

Normal.

and also i sky rocket lean after i let off the throttle like to 18.0 or sometimes 21.9

Again, normal.

can i be detonating because of running so rich.

Possible, but if your knock sensor is gooey, then that's the problem.

should i replace knock sensor 1st before anything else.

Yes, even before posting up again.

and also i read a write up on knock sensor removal do i really need to remove all of that stuff, i donty have a ac condensor so can i just get at it from that side.

Remove whatever is necessary to get it out. If you can get to it without removing anything, then great. If you have to pull the engine, then so be it.

and can i test the knock sensor with a multi meter once its out?

Easy test. If you see black goo, it's bad. Period.

 

[yeti-gvr4]

Its 129.08 for a knock sensor from mitsubishi
Any alternatives?

I see a lot for $60.00 on goolge shopping. Where did everyone else get there knock sensor from?

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts

Got mine from JNZtuning.

 

[yeti-gvr4]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/log...s-wot-cruise-idle-one-thread-instead-ton.html

here's a link t fresh log with some knock i also gewt knock while revving.

and yes the knock sensor is in the right location

 

[yeti-gvr4]

So i get 0-1.1 knock most of the time i run 13* at redline.

Most of the time il get 0.4 degrees of knock retard or 0
Just wondering if this normal to HAVE TO RUN this little timing on 13psi

Ive seen people running lower timing just dont know if its ok or if my motor is on the way out.

I have all the supporting mods for e85, do you guys think i should start the swap and if theres nothing wrong with my motor i wanna run e85

mods list is up to date

 

[bertrenolds]

Replace the knock sensor, the goo is no good and make sure you torque the knock sensor down correctly otherwise it will give you phantom knock. And also replace your PCV valve with an oem one from Oreilieys and see if your still knocking. Is your link set correctly? And screw the fuel lines until you need them since your only running 1000cc injectors, the fuel filter is a good idea and autozone has them for $15. And you shouldn't be advancing your timing, zero it out and adjust you fuel first using WB info and rpm to see how your running. You do have a WB and have it connected to your ecu right? If not get one like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0515703759&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT and then get a buffer from ecm's web site and connect it up, it's required IMO.