Am I maxing out my 2g MAF? 3rd gear log

[Mph]

After reading through this on ECMlink Knowledgebase:

howfueltableajustmentsareapplied [ECMTuning - wiki]

According to the link above 2.1g/rev is the highest airflow curve the ECU reads.

It seems like after I hit 2.1 AirFlowPerRev, all my airflow readings are not smooth and the pull is just rough, starts to knock etc.

Thanks in advance

Here is the log:

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[SOADweskey]

You aren't even close to overrunning the MAF on that run. What the wiki is talking about is fuel maps and not the maf. I have seen as high as 45 lbs/min on my stock 2G MAF and about 3.43 g/rev without a problem.

Did you log a wideband with that? What were you AFRs like?

 

[Mph]

Unfortunately I am still waiting on the wideband, I am just trying to get the pull smooth. Once I recieve it, then I will start tuning correctly.

 

[SOADweskey]

Until then it is very hard to say, at least with my limited tuning knowledge. But at only 8 degrees of timing it would seem that you are either way to lean or way to rich to get knock on such low boost.

 

[Mph]

I was thinking it is too rich, but yeah like you said it is hard to say with no wideband:/ Did you take a look at my fuel sliders? I adusted them a lot I think. And this is because when I first did a pull with the new turbo, I recieved 7 counts of knock. After I adjusted them to what they are now, it is at less knock.

 

[SOADweskey]

Depending on what your engine likes those sliders aren't crazy far out. If it were me I would seriously baby the car until a wide band is installed or get it tuned at a shop that has a wide band for their dyno.

Also I looked in your profile and I didn't see a mention of cams. What cams are you running?

 

[Mph]

I am very careful with it since I have no wideband reading. But I am pretty sure it is running a bit rich. Which is what I want untill I can start to lean it out.

I am on stock 2G cams.

 

[snowborder714]

As Wes said, you're no where near maxing out the 2g MAF. You haven't even broke 2000Hz for it yet.

I would advise putting your fuel sliders back to 0. You should not have to add fuel with larger injectors. If your AFRatioEst is anywhere close to what your actual AFR's are at, you're running really rich. Stock WOT AFR's are around 9.5 or so, and you're showing 8.5 at the top of the pull. There is such thing as rich knock. Once you get your wideband, then you can tune for actual AFR's. Until then, just pull timing a bit to keep knock under control.

 

[Mph]

As Wes said, you're no where near maxing out the 2g MAF. You haven't even broke 2000Hz for it yet.

I would advise putting your fuel sliders back to 0. You should not have to add fuel with larger injectors. If your AFRatioEst is anywhere close to what your actual AFR's are at, you're running really rich. Stock WOT AFR's are around 9.5 or so, and you're showing 8.5 at the top of the pull. There is such thing as rich knock. Once you get your wideband, then you can tune for actual AFR's. Until then, just pull timing a bit to keep knock under control.

Great, thanks a lot for the advice! What about timing? Shouldn't I be able to advance it a few degree's more? But it is already knocking. Maybe I should double check base timing with a timing light?

 

[SOADweskey]

Double checking your base timing is a great idea. 8* seems low to start knocking (especially without aggressive cam profiles) but if that is shifted a good bit from the CAS that could explain it.

 

[snowborder714]

All the basics should be covered before touching anything in link (boost leak test, base timing check, fuel pressure check, etc.).

If you're knocking, you don't want to advance timing as that will just make things worse. Pulling timing will reduce the knock.

 

[Mph]

I have done all the test's but a base timing, only because I don't have a timing light.

Sorry to keep changing the subject, but I took your advice, Brian, and brought all fuel sliders to 0. I couldn't help but to try and lean it out a bit and pulled 4500 and up sliders into the negative range(-8%) Runs 10x better!

I know this is dangerous without my wideband, but I have my CEL come on when it see's anything over 2 degrees of knock. And if I see that CEL blink, I immediately let off the throttle. So I think I am safe for the most part.

 

[snowborder714]

An 8% change is not a huge deal, especially when you consider how rich our cars are from the factory, so you're safe. But I wouldn't go too much further. Just keep an eye on your AFRatioEst value and make sure you don't push it too lean. Don't trust it 100%, but it's a good indication as to where you are.

Glad to hear it's running better!

 

[avengerscoot]

its better to run a little rich then run lean period....

 

[Mph]

My AFRatioEst is staying in the low 10's. I just wanted this thing running smoother and it sure is.

New question, I have a set of Unorthodox racing pulleys on the car. They came with the car when I bought it. Could this effect my base timing at all when trying to set it accordingly?

 

[snowborder714]

The only "racing pulley" that could affect your car is if the harmonic dampener was replaced. This pulley should not be used.

Any other pulley (alternator, power steering, etc.) shouldn't cause any issues.

 

[Mph]

Yeah, that is the problem. They are all replaced with red, unorthodox, racing pulleys. I do not have the stock harmonic balencer.

Havent checked on the pulley to see if it has a timing mark or not. Which I hope it does. But I can post a picture of the pulleys if it helps at all.

 

[snowborder714]

Post a picture, just so we can see for sure what's going on.

But you'll want to replace the "crank pulley" with an OEM (or aftermarket - Fluidampr or ATI) harmonic dampener.

 

[Mph]

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[snowborder714]

Replace the crank pulley. The water pump and power steering ones can stay if you want.

 

[Mph]

Dangit, wish I didn't have to. But If I go aftermarket, do you have any suggestions?

 

[snowborder714]

One of the two I listed above. The Fluidampr is more popular, mainly because of price, so my guess is that one will be your choice.

I know someone who has an ATI and he likes it, but says it was a bit of a pain to install.

 

[Mph]

Yeah I was just reading about the two you listed, and all I have to say is wow. $500 for a damper. I feel like I could spend some of that money elsewhere and get a better use for it.

Do you think I should stick with the OEM? Or the Fluidampr? I already vetoed the ATI out. Haha

 

[snowborder714]

I would say OEM, unless you have the money and want to get an upgraded part. I haven't seen anyone saying "For this application..." or "For this power level..." in regards to this part. I'm not sure I've ever heard of a Fluidampr separating like an OEM piece can though.

But it's up to you and your wallet.

 

[Mph]

How heavy is the fluidampr one? The OEM pulley is like 10lbs :/