Aluminum radiators for 2G automatics

[RavenX]

I've never had a problem with stock radiators, and I see no need for an aftermarket radiator. I almost wish I had a half radiator for the turbo/manifold I want to use, but then I bet I would have a problem with coolant temps. I always notice that people who remove the shrouding and install a fmic, the temps will go from 180 to 206 or more, and you always want to stay below 206 as the ECU will pull 1 deg of timing at 206 and somewhere around 220+ it will pull 2 or more degrees. I ended up cutting as much out of my 95 front bumper as possible and got my temps down from constant 220deg to 196deg. I also use 2 12" slim fans I got from RRE set on high at all times.

Yup i couldn't agree more with you. I thank god for having dsmlink

thats very nice to hear man. BUT how new is your stuff? like block, head, water pump, radiator, cooling fans. my buddy and i just rebuilt his engine and thats what he sees but i got about 100k on my bock and head right now that has never been cracked open and i think that the coolant passages are a little dirty causing a little higher coolant temps. im pretty positive that my wastegate and dump tube being right next to my radiator is probably a majority of my problems.....

Well before i blew the old 7 bolt it was right around 52,000 miles. The new built 6 bolt has around 20,000 miles and its a year and a half old. But i can see what your saying.

 

[zippyshoe]

Does anyone know of any all-aluminum radiators designed as "drop-in" replacements for the factory radiator for 2G automatics? I was looking at the Koyo and Fluidyne radiators which look like great products. Unfortunately, I soon found out that they are only available for manual transmission vehicles. If worse came to worse, I could go with a factory replacement. However, I'm not too fond of the factory plastic end caps. Thanks for your help.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

You can use a manual radiator for an auto car, there aren't any clerance issues. I have a picture of the difference somewhere (radiators side by side), but you might wanna check Radiator Barn

 

[zippyshoe]

I don't think the problem is due to a clearance issue. From what I understand so far, the radiators on automatics are used not only for the engine coolant, but are also used to cool the automatic transmission fluid. Unfortunately, neither the Fluidyne or the Koyo has provisions for the automatic transmission fluid connections.

 

[AWDtsi1995]

There is Auto Transmission lines in front of the radiator. Buy a aluminum radiator and a trans/oil cooler for the trans because its way better then the lines.

 

[Flash]

I'm A/T and I have an aluminum radiator. I have a PWR radiator. You can use PWR, Koyo, Fluidyne, etc... They all work. I just dropped my radiator right into place when I installed it. I didn't have to cut anything, bend anything or move anything. It fits like OEM.
Here's a link to the same PWR radiator that I have.
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/4206_4288_4899/products_id/1212

 

[zippyshoe]

Thanks for all the responses, guys. Its looking like if I want to go with an aluminum radiator, I will probably have to purchase a separate auto transmission oil cooler. Unfortunately, it does not appear that there are any aluminum radiators which include an auto transmission oil cooler like the factory unit.

EDIT: Oops... Didn't see your reply, Flash. Looks like I have some more research to do.

 

[Defiant]

Have you looked in the left bumper vent? You may have another AT cooler there already.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

From the factory, my auto did not have a tranny cooler built in, but if you check radiator barn, they have it as an option. My car had a tranny cooler (OEM) in front of the condesor. When I got my new radiator and FMIC, I switched out the stock for an IPT Cooler

 

[zippyshoe]

I was looking over the service manual today and it appears that the 2G turbo models have a physically separate A/T fluid cooler at the driver's side front bumper (as Defiant had mentioned). The NON-turbo 2G's do not have a separate A/T fluid cooler and instead have the A/T fluid cooler integrated into the engine radiator. So I think I should be good to go. Thanks for all the responses.

 

[ZmanIV]

I just put my al radiator into my 2Gb auto and there were not any problems with tranny cooler just the standoffs for the fan were a little off I just had to leave all the bolts real loose before I tightened them down.

 

[zippyshoe]

I just put my al radiator into my 2Gb auto and there were not any problems with tranny cooler just the standoffs for the fan were a little off I just had to leave all the bolts real loose before I tightened them down.

Thanks for the info, ZManIV. Its always good to hear from the voices of experience.

 

[zippyshoe]

I just wanted to follow-up and let everyone know that I decided on the Koyo R2024 radiator and found that it was a "drop-in" replacement for the factory unit. I was impressed with the appearance of this radiator over the factory unit. I am still using the factory fans, so its a bit tight between the fan and the lower intercooler pipe, but it does clear it. I might look into slimline fans someday. I'm curious to see if my coolant temp has dropped noticeably with this radiator. Thanks for all the responses.

 

[Defiant]

I'm curious to see if my coolant temp has dropped noticeably with this radiator. Thanks for all the responses.

Unless your old radiator was years past due, the thermostat determines what your coolant temperature will be.

 

[zippyshoe]

Unless your old radiator was years past due, the thermostat determines what your coolant temperature will be.

That's the way it should be. In my case, with a factory 180*F thermostat, I was seeing coolant temps while cruising of around 205 to 210*F. I'm wondering if this was due to an old, inefficient radiator, or if this is normal behavior? I guess I'll find out when I start monitoring coolant temps with the new radiator as a comparison.

 

[Defiant]

The thermostat rating will be the lowest temperature it'll let the engine run at. 210º running is fine.

 

[zippyshoe]

The thermostat rating will be the lowest temperature it'll let the engine run at. 210º running is fine.

Thanks for the feedback, Defiant. I am hoping to keep my coolant temps below 206*F, if possible, since above this, the ECU begins to pull some timing advance. I also found out that the 180*F thermostat is not fully open until 203*F.

 

[zippyshoe]

I just wanted to follow-up on what I found with coolant temps with my 10-year old factory radiator vs. the new Koyo radiator. I didn't see a huge decrease in coolant temps, but I did see a noticeable decrease in coolant temps. With the Koyo, I am seeing a consistent 200 to 203*F while cruising compared to 205 to 210*F with the factory unit. This may be due to the factory radiator being 10 years old, or slightly cooler outside air temps, or some other variable I haven't thought of yet. However, I'm pretty happy with the Koyo so far.

 

[Flash]

Have you looked in the left bumper vent? You may have another AT cooler there already.

Yes, I have a cooler there already.