Advice needed

[darkweiss123]

So I have a '92 TSi AWD talon

plans are to make it an all season dd(winter here gets pretty bad and snow gets deep that's why I looked for an awd dd, at about -40 C) that goes for about 250 hp

mods on talon are:
stage 2 clutch and aftermarket flywheel
intake
16g frankenstein big turbo
upgraded internals on engine

what mods do you think I should go for after fixing everything(suspension, brakes, oem stuff). I know I have to replace the stock exhaust, and I'm getting a straight pipe(cops here don't know the difference between straight pipes and cat ones albeit they don't look underneath)

do you think I should up the f/a ratio,

 

[FLASH1970]

datalogger
wideband
mbc
boost gauge
3" exhaust
190 fuel pump or EVO 8 or 9
SAFC
550 injectors

That should get you close to 250hp

There's also a "TECH" section in the upper left hand corner of the website here that has an upgrade path.

 

[butcha]

follow flashes advice. get those mods and you will be gold.

 

[darkweiss123]

I actually have a boost gauge on the pillar too, and I also have a manual boost controller

but I have no idea about the datalogger and wideband(if i'm not mistaken this is for oxygen)

the path on the tech guide is purely for performance, what I wanted to do with mine is to make it last as long as possible while being an all season dd(it only has 200k km on the body and less than 50k km on engine) without it breaking at the side of the road every now and then

one more thing, is it ok to keep the frankenstein turbo, or would you advice to go back to 14g? I heard that frankensteins are not reliable, and mine has a flaw in it, it leaks a bit of oil but we can't find the source, we're thinking it's from the design of the turbo itself

at what level of boost should I be at? I'm at 16 right now for dd

 

[dsmvenge]

+ for supporting mods

 

[brandonwh64]

Dont bother with forged internals unless you want extremely high HP. Stock internals have been know to hold over 600HP

 

[talonryder]

Before i built my motor, i ran it with a evo 3 16g at 23psi for a year without any issues on a stock setup. I will say supporting mods are where your interests should be. Good quality brands, correct installations, and loggers w gauges. With a correct setup, you can have a reliable 250+ hp on a stock engine.

 

[dsmvenge]

____has a completly stock 7 bolt on 21lbs

 

[darkweiss123]

@everyone who replied

what mods are considered "support"? sorry I'm a newbie, I kinda have an idea of what you're saying but I want to have a reliable idea

and also, 21 psi is considered safe still? ok I guess

@brandon

you can say that to my talon's previous owner, the talon was supposed to be a project car aimed to be a 10-sec car but he got bored with it i guess,

 

[dsm03]

Dont bother with forged internals unless you want extremely high HP. Stock internals have been know to hold over 600HP

I've always thought and been told 400hp..

 

[werx]

Supporting Mods are mods that don't "directily" deal with horsepower. Mostly tuning and information gathering mods are what they are talking about. The Wideband O2 and datalogger help you tune your car to get the most out of your motor/turbo setup. Boost increases horsepower in turbo cars but it's also more....taxing or abusive to the turbo and motor. Every turbo has a boost range that it can effectively produce boost in and some turbos are more efficient than others. If you look through DSMtuners website you can find plenty of information on just about anything dealing with these cars you want to know. ANYTHING!

 

[TunaTalon]

Big turbos and big cams are good for big power at high RPM. Pulling around town on a snow covered road needs more torque at low RPM. Stay with stock or E3-16G turbo and stock or 264/264 cams.

Lowering springs make the car look cool but when the road is covered with four inches of cold snow you will want the original ride height. When the snow is much over four inches the front air dam auto converts to a snow plow to aid the car in switching ends at 100 KPH.

Performance tires have good grip on warm pavement, but get glassy in cold weather. In the Winter in Regina you well need snow tires or tires with an All Season rating.

Your car is pushing 20 years old. All of the rubber parts and pieces are due take on the consistency of corn flakes. I replaced all of the vacuum lines under hood with silicon lines from a Larson hose kit, and the water hoses with OE hoses. That was a good time to also replace the accessory belts. Of course the timing belt and balance shaft belts need to be replaced at 60K intervals.

My Talon was daily driven on the stock engine/transmission for 183K carefully maintained miles. Suspension and brake upgrades made the car more fun to drive without hurting reliability. Bigger, better tires made my car handle better, but in the snow you will want narrow tires in the winter.

Enjoy.

 

[darkweiss123]

@TunaTalon

about all those hoses you replaced, how much did those cost?


@werx

Can you explain what the wideband o2 does? I have a general idea on all the supporting mods mentioned except for that

 

[Greeno]

wideband o2 measures the oxygen in your exhaust to give you an accurate reading of your Air/Fuel ratio

 

[TunaTalon]

A Larson hose kit for a 1G is $40. See RRE's Larson Silicone Hose Kit.

The radiator and heater hoses are commodity items from parts store.

 

[darkweiss123]

@greeno

ohh ok thanks do I really need that for the safc? or can I get through without that? they're the most expensive part so far on my list

@tunatalon

is that $40 kit all I'll need for everything?

 

[TunaTalon]

The Larson hose kit replaces the vacuum lines, not the radiator hoses and heater hoses.

 

[dexterholland04]

A wideband o2 is a MUST. If you run too rich, your fuel economy will suck and you will also make no power. If you run too lean, your engine will go bye-bye from detonation. Tuning your AFR's (Air/Fuel Ratios) will allow you to reach the max amount of power, SAFELY. My advice: if you're complaining about a wideband being expensive, buy a good used one or don't mod the car. It may cost you more to mod the right way, but you will have reliable performance!

 

[darkweiss123]

hmmmm ok i'll take your word for it I''ll try to find one

 

[brandonwh64]

I've always thought and been told 400hp..

Check this thread out, it shows what a stock block with stock internals will do

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/401961-637whp-499wtq-stock-1g-6-bolt-motor.html

 

[nightmares GS-T]

The general rule is 400hp on stock internals. Many other people have went above that with good tuning. Knowledge and tuning ability are the main issues when going over 400 on the stock bottom end. Im pushing 25 psi and have been for a while now on my stock 7bolt dd. As for the ops question 250 hp is nothing to these engines as long as you keep up maintenance you will be fine.

 

[Black-Out]

Check this thread out, it shows what a stock block with stock internals will do

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/401961-637whp-499wtq-stock-1g-6-bolt-motor.html

Video is insane.....last time I seen a stock block car dyno it died at 450whp 447wtq
due to rod failure....