The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

1G Advice needed on timing belt & clutch replacement kits

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

XC92

Proven Member
1,573
362
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I'm in the process of repairing and restoring my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual, and was hoping to get some advice about some parts kits I need to order, to make sure I get ones that are appropriate for my situation and of good quality.

First, it's been quite a while since I had the timing belt replaced, and it's well past time. It hasn't been 60k miles yet, but at least 10 years and probably longer, and dry rot has probably done its thing. I'll obviously order a kit since I'm going to want to replace the idlers, tensioners and water pump at the same time.

I'm looking at the Gates kit, which is around $130 at RockAuto. Is it decent quality, and is the included hydraulic tensioner OK or should I use an OEM one instead? Also, should I replace the seals even if they're not leaking, just to play it safe, and any other parts while I'm in there? Anything else to be mindful of when I undertake the job? I've replaced a timing belt before, on a 2010 Kia Rio LX, and it wasn't too bad, but this one's obviously going to be a bit more involved.

Second, I'm pretty sure I need a new clutch. The car actually hasn't been driven for several years because while the engine runs fine it stopped transferring power to the wheels in all gears, which to me means the clutch is probably shot. I won't know for sure until I drop the transmission and see what the old clutch looks like, but it's the most likely reason.

My Talon is stock, with the only new parts being standard maintenance replacement parts, e.g. pads, rotors, belts, etc. All the major components are OEM, no mods and none likely any time soon, and if I ever do mod it, I doubt it would put out much beyond 250HP, 300 tops.. Right now, though, it's putting out 195HP (nominally, of course).

I'm leaning towards the SBC Stage 1 K05048-HD), which goes for around $230. I understand that it's good up to around 300HP, and since I don't intend to mod the car any time soon, if ever, and don't race, at all, just drive somewhat aggressively (or so I'm told by family members), it's certainly more than enough clutch for my needs at present.

Is it a good choice for my situation, or would I be better off with a different and perhaps less "rugged" clutch? I know that many advise considering the ACT 2100, but it's over $100 more and seems like even more clutch than I need at this point. I'm willing to spend the $230 on the SBC, so saving money isn't a huge issue.

Also, If I do go with the SBC, should I purchase an OEM throwout bearing and not use the included one, as many have advised, or is the one that comes with the kit acceptable, especially for my needs? Also, how do I tell if the flywheel needs to be repaired or replaced? Do I need to take it out and take it to a clutch or transmission shop, or at least post some photos here?

The car needs a bunch of other work done, and as I have questions I'll make sure to post them here, but these are the two big ones right now. So far I've mainly been rebuilding and restoring the front and rear brakes and suspension parts, which mainly entails lots of derusting and cleaning and then painting to protect against future rust. But I think I've got a handle on this so I'm good there. Mainly I'd appreciate some input on the timing belt and clutch.

Thanks in advance, and if there's anything else you need to know about my situation, feel free to ask. Also, I realize that because the car hasn't been driven for several years there are a bunch of other things I'll need to do before getting it on the road again, like replacing the fuel, squirting some oil into the plug holes and turning the engine over by hand a few times, etc. Any other advice on this would also be appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Im doing w full rebuild a long block. Some parts mentioned can be mismatched its on of those things, lots of us have done over the years.
 
No I'm not saying the rubber insert won't work. You just said you didn't have a 13/16 spark plug socket but I assumed you have a regular 13/16. There isn't anything special about a spark plug socket except that rubber insert. It's for convenience only.
 
I probably have a 13/16 socket but it's not deep and is 12 point so it wouldn't work with a spark plug anyway. I'll just spring for a real plug socket as it's good to have around for future use and only around $6. I have plenty of extenders and ratchets so I'm good there.

Btw, once it's time to put the transaxle back on, I'll have to fill it with oil, along with the transfer case and rear diff. All will be flushed of their very old oil. No need to get into a discussion of which kinds to put in each, but I've done google and site searches and am more confused than before.

I won't ask you to rec any but can you rec a good site or thread that in your opinion gives good advice on this? There seems to be huge debates on which is best and much of it is very contradictory, as in you MUST use this, no DO NOT use this, etc.

Right now I'm leaning OEM for transaxle and Redline LW Shockproof for the case & rear diff, but have in no way made up my mind and have some time to decide.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top