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1G Adjusting rear toe - 1G AWD

Posted by 99gst_racer, Feb 1, 2018

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  1. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Let's discuss this. Has anyone improved upon the factory configuration for adjusting rear toe? I'm not a big fan of adjusting it with a trailing arm, but it seems that it would be better to have a system that moved the arm left and right, rather than in and out.

    I'm considering building something like in the picture below. But I've yet to play around with a 1G on an alignment rack. Has anyone else played around with this idea or something similar?

    toe-link-adjusting.jpg
     

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  2. pagosa dsm

    pagosa dsm Proven Member

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    I have a complete heim joint rear suspension. Never had any problem adjusting toe. I have been thinking about adjusting bump steer in the rear 1st gen.
     

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  3. ist dwa

    ist dwa Proven Member

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    The rear trailing arm operates really at about a 45* angle no left to right or up to back. It comes in from the side. Nothing really special to do if you want to do heim joints, get the Jay Racing kit and be done with it. Set the camber bolt in the middle and adjust accordingly via the heim. Keep in mind adjusting the heim joint is a PITA because you have to drop the trailing arm itself to adjust it.

    Heim joints = great for race cars bad for noise and harshness.
     
  4. cioc

    cioc Proven Member

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    I'm also heim jointed in my 1g both at the trailing arm and the upper arms. Toe hasn't been an issue but I know the whole design isn't optimal. A whole rear suspension redesign would be awesome. Huge task though.
     

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  5. donk

    donk Proven Member

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  6. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    It operates at an angle, yes; But I'd guess closer to 60-70*. I haven't measured, but it's clear from an image. This is why i think there could be a benefit by left/right adjustment. That should translate to a more true toe adjustment without moving the wheel forward or backward at all.

    A huge benefit to this idea is that you wouldn't have to drop the arm to adjust the heim for a toe change.

    461841070_4qW9Y-L.jpg


    And I'm extremely familiar with using heims on suspension components. Only the cheap, low quality ones are noisy. ;-)

    I already produce and sell my own ATE kit. I'm asking about changing up toe adjustment because I'm designing/building a 1G tubular rear subframe right now and now would be the time to implement such a change/feature.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2018

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  7. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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  8. DetroitStroker

    DetroitStroker Proven Member

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    How about a whole new trailing arm design with the new subframe? Is it possible to cut the trailing arm off and box in the hub? Then run something tubular like posted in OP?
     
  9. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    A tube trailing arm is the plan. Right now, I'm just working on how I want to connect it to the subframe.
     

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    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
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  10. DetroitStroker

    DetroitStroker Proven Member

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    Nice Paul! I was a little confused thinking you were trying to re mount your style of toe eliminator!
     
  11. Brembo

    Brembo Proven Member

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    I figure I will post. A different design of toe adjustment 1G could really benefit. I found out the hard way. When you change toe, the wheel base changes with the toe which sucks totally. I dont have pictures at work PC but when I started playing with 3kgt rear trailing arms install and I needed to modify the track width so when I cut the toe section of the trailing arm out I also moved the center of the wheel forward like 2 inches and that created more work then I thought it needed. The only problem I see with this is how many people willing to pay for it and how many people are willing to cut their trailing arms. Maybe drag racers to save weight. I love the fact that someone still making parts for these cars so thank you for that and I am sorry for not buying your arms.
     

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    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  12. Brembo

    Brembo Proven Member

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    Connect it to the sub frame in a way that it wont change the wheel base. That would be perfect.
     

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  13. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    Paul, I purchased your ATE kit, and all I can say is: well done sir!
    It was excellent, I had no issues getting it installed, and the price was great.

    I myself have been wondering about changing how toe is adjusted and if it could be changed, since even with the ATE kit it's still a pain since the arm has to be dropped, and my clamshell mounts are pretty tight.

    I contemplated a tube arm with threaded adjusters like your upper camber arms (I'd have bought them too if I didn't have 3sx arms laying around already), but I like the side-side idea better now that it's been mentioned, and it solves the issue of dropping the arm constantly.

    I may try to figure something out, or if you get something sorted im in, long as it's reliable and stout!
     

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  14. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Sweet! I'm glad to hear you like the ATE kit! In my experience, you really only need to get the heim length close and then you can fine tune from there using the OE eccentric bolt. That method sure beats dropping and raising the arm a dozen times! :)

    I'm waiting up for some time to free up next month to get going on the 1G rear subframe build again. I'm not sure if the first prototype will feature something like this, but I certainly plan to play around with it eventually.
     

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    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
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  15. 90'AWDTalonFroggy

    90'AWDTalonFroggy Proven Member

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    I am oh so patiently waiting on that 1g rear subframe of yours. Been putting alot of stuff on hold so I can get one of these when it becomes available:) you make some amazing stuff paul and cant wait to get your products. Just want the rear subframe first LOL thanks for all you do for the community.
    Thank you
    Seth
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2018

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  16. DsmDolney

    DsmDolney Supporting Member

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    I will also be interested in one of those subframes !!
     

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  17. tstkl

    tstkl Proven Member

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    There's a bolt that connects the tube of the trailing arm to the bushing spigot for the active toe control. Remove the spigot, wire wheel the rubber off of it, and then weld a pair of threaded bosses on to the tube. This would allow you to thread a bolt into either side of the spigot and control the toe. That would be the lowest cost option.
     

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