2G AWD Rear Toe Arms

[aaronth777]

There's been a few threads on this topic, but none of them really answered my question. I found one thread on how to convert FWD rear toe arms to fit an AWD, however the pictures no longer work.

It is very difficult to find AWD rear toe arms, OEM or aftermarket. All the junkyard ones I can find are all seized up like mine is. The only ones I have been able to find are the spherical ones over on volkmetalcraft.com. While these look to be of very good quality, I'm concerned about using these for a daily driver because of the solid bushings. Would the solid bushings on the rear toe arms make the ride too harsh for daily driving? If so, is it possible to put a polyurethane bushing on it? Just looking for some thoughts and opinions on this. I'm going to be converting all my factory rubber bushings to polyurethane as well, if that makes a difference.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Volk sells toe arms in either version,

All you do to make the fwd ones fit is have a small bush machined up or rsther spacer and a longer bolt, its a real simple and cheap thing to do, but your stuck with the oem range,

If i was you go to volks site and order his https://volkmetalcraft.com/product/2g-tubular-rear-toe-arms/

 

[m_0ney_pit]

I’m trying to figure out the same thing myself, one thread said after installing the fwd arms he couldn’t get the toe past -0.1 so the fwd must be slightly shorter.

I saw that the prothane rear kit has something that looks like a bushing for the toe arms can anyone confirm this?

Can’t believe no aftermarket company ever made these.

 

[Bock]

following this, as a tear up my rear suspension/subframe and of course the rear toe arm was seized.
I found parts rear toe arm at napa but dont know if its for FWD or AWD (# NCT 2606662 and # NCT 2606661)

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As for the VMC, do we still need the eccentric toe bolt on any bolt long enought of the same size will be good since the adjustement is on the tube?

 

[aaronth777]

After talking with a few people about this, it's my understanding that the only difference between the AWD and FWD rear toe arms are the width of the inward bushing. I don't know the proper term for this, but the metal tube in the bushing that bolts to the frame is 0.535" longer on the AWD version. So to make the FWD arms fit on an AWD you just need to have a spacer made up. I have heard the prothane kit comes with this bushing, but can't confirm it.

Also yes you should still use the eccentric bolt when you get an aftermarket arm as the hole in the frame is oval shaped, not circular, so a standard bolt could potentially move under stress. Keep in mind the AWD eccentric bolt is longer than the FWD due to the wider bushing. I believe STMtuned sells both of them.

Also Bock I can't find if that part is a FWD or AWD, but it says it fits multiple other cars like the Sebring and the Avenger, so that leads me to think it is FWD.

 

[Bock]

Good to know, as for the protane bushing, i need to order the full front and rear bushing kit. I'll have the answer in a few week i guess.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The only difference is the bush yes, nothing else. The washers are the same and will also still rust in the future

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

The only difference is the bush yes, nothing else. The washers are the same and will also still rust in the future

Zinc washers

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Zinc washers

Yup, they will still corrode away, also the bolt will also rust i side causing it to seize up

 

[RWD4G63]

There's been a few threads on this topic, but none of them really answered my question. I found one thread on how to convert FWD rear toe arms to fit an AWD, however the pictures no longer work.

It is very difficult to find AWD rear toe arms, OEM or aftermarket. All the junkyard ones I can find are all seized up like mine is. The only ones I have been able to find are the spherical ones over on volkmetalcraft.com. While these look to be of very good quality, I'm concerned about using these for a daily driver because of the solid bushings. Would the solid bushings on the rear toe arms make the ride too harsh for daily driving? If so, is it possible to put a polyurethane bushing on it? Just looking for some thoughts and opinions on this. I'm going to be converting all my factory rubber bushings to polyurethane as well, if that makes a difference.

Your car will ride better with the volk rear arms. Spherical bearings mean less friction and less suspension deflection. Polyurethane is really a garbage material for a bushing that has any kind of rotational aspect. Great for engine mounts and subframe mounts, really crappy for control arms. Go Volk, you won't regret it.

 

[Bock]

Finally end up with new toe arm (FWD), as it had been said, only the bushing is 0.5" less wide.
New Napa FWD rear toe arm(NCT 260662/ NCT 260661+-30$ CAD) + my old AWD arm (minus the bushing(had to cut it).
My first plan was to change both bushing (OEM available for the FWD lenght bushing MB809170 +- 26$ CAD) + balljoint but the complete arm was waaayyyy cheaper
I did buy a bushing, for one on my rear control arm (same bushing for both control arm and FWD lenght rear toe arm)

Here is some photos for posterity of this thread!

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[aaronth777]

Finally end up with new toe arm (FWD), as it had been said, only the bushing is 0.5" less wide.
New Napa FWD rear toe arm(NCT 260662/ NCT 260661+-30$ CAD) + my old AWD arm (minus the bushing(had to cut it).
My first plan was to change both bushing (OEM available for the FWD lenght bushing MB809170 +- 26$ CAD) + balljoint but the complete arm was waaayyyy cheaper
I did buy a bushing, for one on my rear control arm (same bushing for both control arm and FWD lenght rear toe arm)

Here is some photos for posterity of this thread!

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That looks really good! I may have to go that route in the future.

I ended up going with the Megan FWD polyurethane rear toe arms and just adding some washers. One issue I've had is that the adjustment nuts came loose after having it aligned, and again then after tightening them myself. I've tightened them the best I could for now, but I'm going to pick up some good lock washers to replace the paper thin washers it currently has. Just keep that in mind if anybody decides to get these too

 

[mcubed45]

FWIW
I did most of the prothane rear bushings on my 420a RS a couple years ago. It definitely came with a metal sleeve/spacer to make up the difference between the FWD and AWD control arm bushings. You can see it in the bottom left/right corners of this pic.

I have an AWD now and will probably do the same kit again. It's a pita getting out the old OEM bushings but if you ever have to replace them again, it should only take minutes.

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Here's a better pic from the rear bushing set:

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[luv2rallye]

MitsubishiParts.com still lists the toe arms:
https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-rear-arm-mr162573
https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-rear-arm-mr162574

 

[spoolinpos]

I'm attaching photos of my measurements of the spacer provided in the Prothane kit. I guess just adding something like this spacer to a FWD toe arm bushing, and it should fill the void that the fwd bushing can't fill alone. I found this thread awhile back looking for my options to replace old seized crap, and ended up buying the rear prothane kit.

I AM using the new prothane bushing and sleeve that was provided, so I did not test fit the spacer with OEM sized bushing though, so I cannot 100% confirm this will work, but I can't see why it wouldn't. Hope this helps someone in the future looking around.

 

[T bags]

Here's a better pic from the rear bushing set:

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Nice photo And thx for the digram
Would you happen to have the front diagram?

 

[GsxAwd2300]

Solved : https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=21339

Spent hours looking for solution turns out there readily available

 

[VBR_DSM]

Anyone have pictures of the FWD toe arms installed with the spacers? Do they go towards the front or rear of the car? Wouldn’t one spacer make the toe arm be off centered?

Please advice!