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Cheap Rear Toe Arms Solution

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okm12346

15+ Year Contributor
565
22
Dec 3, 2007
Chicago, Illinois
I got these off this car - it's a Dodge Intrepid ( didn't see what year it was exactly)

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It's a rear toe arm for Dodge intrepid.

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I took the short link out and then bolted the cheapest front tie rod i could find

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And Voila, adjust to the needed length, then add washers where it bolts to the subframe and there you have a budget solution for the rear toe arm.

I got two Dodge arms for $5 each and two tie rods for $17 each. That comes to $30 with the washer that i have to buy.

Stand by for installation pictures
 

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i took the straight design from these pictures. the straight arm doesnt seem to interfere with anything

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All I'm saying is make damn sure. The results of it hitting could be bad. I'm pretty sure the design your is modeled off is the one I came up with. I had to clearance my aluminum cross member mounts a bit to make me comfortable. That being said I am very far away from having my car on the ground. Since no one has chimed in with feedback on if they have or haven't had any problem I just thought it prudent to tell you to make sure. Please let us know how it works out.

Kevin

You can see my thread on the arms here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/320763-spherical-bearings-2g.html
.
 
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Finally finished!!

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Newly improved rear tow arms. No more washers to make up for the difference in sizes. These have Prothane inserts made for our cars.

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can you post a link or a part number for those prothane bushings. Im finding it difficult ensuring Im getting the right set.

I like this idea, I will do it to my project!!!
 
yeah, the thing is I dont want to buy a whole kit. I think they dont sell those rear control arm bushings separate any where.
 
Do you have a part number for the ball joint side making it easier for people?


It's front outer tie rod. It fits nicely in the rear spindle. You can buy it at any parts store.
 
yeah, the thing is I dont want to buy a whole kit. I think they dont sell those rear control arm bushings separate any where.

Just to add to the thread it's near impossible to buy them individually. I looked and even spoke with reps from prothane.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/han...-part-numbers-rear-control-arm-bushingss.html
The closest I found was a specialized bushing shop out west that bought directly from prothane but they required a piece order of thousands at a time.
So each part number for each part of the bushing you would have to order thousands of each. So its cheaper to buy the whole kit get what you want then sell the rest or keep for back ups.
 
Sorry for bringing this tread up but just tried doing this and ran into a huge problem. I go the Intrepid control arm and the outer tie rod. Had to cut the old toe arm out like everyone else but when I put the Intrepid arm together I can't get the arm short enough. Just did one side because I ran out of time but the side I did is crazy toed in and I can not get it to straighten up because I can not get the arm to get any shorter. Anyone else run into this problem?
 
Sorry for bringing this tread up but just tried doing this and ran into a huge problem. I go the Intrepid control arm and the outer tie rod. Had to cut the old toe arm out like everyone else but when I put the Intrepid arm together I can't get the arm short enough. Just did one side because I ran out of time but the side I did is crazy toed in and I can not get it to straighten up because I can not get the arm to get any shorter. Anyone else run into this problem?

Just for informative purposes I had the same issue. I notice the 2 of us have 2ga's which have "slightly" different rear spindles than the 2gb. I used moog front ball joints also. Not sure exactly why they're longer but my plan is just to use the shorter side of the intrepid arm and lose the ease of just loosening or tightening the center nut to adjust them. Also under heavy compression mine come in contact with the subframe circular mount so they may require some clearancing depending on ride height.
 
Just for informative purposes I had the same issue. I notice the 2 of us have 2ga's which have "slightly" different rear spindles than the 2gb. I used moog front ball joints also. Not sure exactly why they're longer but my plan is just to use the shorter side of the intrepid arm and lose the ease of just loosening or tightening the center nut to adjust them. Also under heavy compression mine come in contact with the subframe circular mount so they may require some clearancing depending on ride height.

Is there really a difference in the 2ga's, how are they slightly different. Also wouldn't that make the 2ga's toe arm be different than a 2gb?
 
Is there really a difference in the 2ga's, how are they slightly different. Also wouldn't that make the 2ga's toe arm be different than a 2gb?

I am not sure if there are differences, I'm just implying that between the two of us, that's one thing we have in common and the others don't. I'll update when I actually align mine hopefully this week but after cutting about 8 threads off each side of the threaded part it's "appears" to be align able using the correct method of adjustment.
 
I took mine to the grinder but still couldn't get it to work right. I gave up and planning on using the Megan Racing toe arms just sucks that I spent the money for the Moog tie rod ends.
 
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