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ECMlink Adjusted timing in ECMLink, pls advise.

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Hesh724

10+ Year Contributor
373
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Feb 7, 2009
Hopewell, Pennsylvania
this was pretty much a 3rd gear pull up a soft hill and i was getting a couple degrees knock retared at 4400 rpms about so i adjusted timing sliders to counteract the amount of retard i was getting could someone tell me if this looks close? Thanks for any advice :thumb:
 

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So is knock retard actual knock? I do have a wide band and i try to watch it while im doing a pull but i find it hard not to keep eyes straight :). i think my stock Maf is overrunning or something seems like wide band pins to 10.2 but i cant watch for long. it came set for full rich at wot from ecmlink for my injectors so i don't know what to think. Thanks PS knock starts at like half throttle then goes down?
 
Knock retard is NOT actual knock. RawKnock is. The two are obviously tied together. That is quite a bit of knock retard though. I also noticed that both your max octance timing table AND your sliders have been adjusted. I would just stick to one or the other to keep tuning simple. I would also set your check engine light for 2 or 3 degrees of retard instead of one. It will help you tell how serious your knock is while driving.
 
Holy crap thats a lot of knock. You really need to investigate mechainical issues before trying to bandaid things with dsmlink. You shouldnt have to adjust timing to fix a issue like that. As stated, there definitly is some other cause for the issue, be it bad knock sensor or otherwise.
 
im not trying to band aid that's why i spent 600 on ecmlink. but i didn't know about knock raw MY BAD. but any way i found a small crack in my bell housing at the starter flange that is adding noticeable vibrations to the car due to the starter being a vibrating weight . plus solid motor mounts. but i will get a new knock sensor as well as these repairs. engine is freshly rebuilt few K miles ago.
 
im not trying to band aid that's why i spent 600 on ecmlink. but i didn't know about knock raw MY BAD. but any way i found a small crack in my bell housing at the starter flange that is adding noticeable vibrations to the car due to the starter being a vibrating weight . plus solid motor mounts. but i will get a new knock sensor as well as these repairs. engine is freshly rebuilt few K miles ago.

Adjusting timing to fix a obvious knock issue is a bandaid. Dont get mad, its not a insult. Just understand when you see something like that in a log, your first step should not to be change timing. If you all of the sudden started to run rich you wouldnt use dsmlink to lean it out would you? No...obviously there would be some reason why you were running rich..boost leak..02 sensor...ect..
 
I notice knock goes down as my throttle goes up? i finaly got knock raw to show on my log so that will be helpfull. and the richness thing i just thought that since the open loop max octane boxes are set to 10 and 9 at those ranges riching was expected? or should it always want to stay 14.7 you know plus or minus.
Thanks for the input :thumb:
 
I do notice that the back of my knock sensor does seem to have a thick black tary substance on the back of the sensor. i beleive it is origional so i will get another and see if that changes. but ya at wot its 10.9 steady. i wil also research what else i can check that can cause knock or pk.

Thanks!!!
 
i watched the wideband real well today cruising and wot. it runs pretty much 14/ 15 at cruise and 10+ at wot never leans out im only runnign like 15 psi right now. need to check for boost leaks as wel but im getting new knock sensor payday since there is definatly goo on the back of my current one. thanks!

took a good pic of my knock sensor and it doesn't seem healthy but i am not getting a cel? keep in mind i by no means consider my self experienced at tuning yet just doing the best i can with my current knowledge. :thumb: but i do think the knock is happenign at odd times like at low rpms and gets better as i get more into the pedal? Thanks for any advice.
 

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