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act 2100

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Clutches are rated by how much torque they can hold. If you think you might max out your turbo you would probably want something with more holding power than a 2100. The FP3052 is a really nice 50trim but quite spendy. You want to do your fuel mods first and get some kind of logging tools. Palm, dsmlink, etc.
 
yes im getting dsmlink injectors fuel pump and afpr when i get my turbo i dont think ill be maxing it out cz im still on a stock block so im looking for 350 whp
 
Yes, ACT 2100 will be fine for a FWD with a 50 trim.

Which 50 trim is totally up to you. You have the FP Green, PTE's BB turbo or if you have $2k then you have FP's 3150. If you plan on staying with an internal gate, then choose either the FP Green or the PTE BB 50 trim. If you want an internal 50 trim with BB, then get the PTE turbo.

FYI - Please don't bump posts, it is one of the ways in which you'll get a warning from a moderator. Just be patient and someone will reply to your thread.
 
thnx for the info but i think ill go with the pte 50 trim i want something better than an evo 3 16g. also why do some people use external wastegates if the turbo had a wastegate?
 
also why do some people use external wastegates if the turbo had a wastegate?

Better boost control.

If you have an internally gated 50 trim and want to hold 26+ psi of boost, it is not going to happen. People who get external wastegates are people who don't want to deal with boost creep or don't want to have their flappers blow open when they run high boost. Boost creep is where if you want to hold 25 psi, the turbo starts off holding 25 psi and as your RPMs go up the boost drops down to like 21 or 22 psi. If you get an external wastegate and you want the turbo to hold 30 psi, the turbo will hold 30 psi all the way until redline or until you shift.
 
PTE's non-ball bearing 50 trim turbo with an internal wastegate, if you want to stick to a 50 trim.

If your goal is 350whp, you can always get an EVO III 16G. You can get the EVO III 16G internally gated, GT exhaust manifold and 2G install kit for $849. http://www.turbochargers.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=186

Maybe its just me, but I dont find it easy to reach 350whp on a evo3 unless your running race gas with high boost ( meaning 24 + ) I think his goal would be reached much easier and less stressful if he just went and got a 50 trim.
And personally to the op i think youd be better off just stepping up to a 2600 or something of that type of holding force because you never know if your goals go higher in the future once you have a bigger turbo etc... Just my .02
 
I agree with you, 50 trim will be a better choice. Power delivery and clutch size can be different since he's FWD and not AWD. ACT2100s are known to not last on mid-power AWDs, while they work perfectly fine on mid-power (350-400hp) FWDs.

Here is a link on what the EVO III 16G turbo can do (and some dyno sheets) - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156794

And there is nothing wrong with porting and running race gas on the EVO III 16G. :)
 
the average on a e316g if 300whp so i think ill just go with the 50 but i still dont know whitch one.and i said i want the 2100 because i dont want a really heavy clutch this is my dd,so if im planning on staying at 350whp will this clutch do the job or will it break after a short while?
 
As said before clutches are rated for torque not HP. I run an ACT 2100 with a 6 puck sprung hub disc which is rated for more torque than a ACT 2600 with a street disc. When the clutch dies depends on how you drive it. If you do launches every other traffic light, it won't last too long.
 
As said before clutches are rated for torque not HP. I run an ACT 2100 with a 6 puck sprung hub disc which is rated for more torque than a ACT 2600 with a street disc. When the clutch dies depends on how you drive it. If you do launches every other traffic light, it won't last too long.

hows the pressure on the pedal and is there really a big diffrence between the 4 and 6 puck?
 
As said before clutches are rated for torque not HP. I run an ACT 2100 with a 6 puck sprung hub disc which is rated for more torque than a ACT 2600 with a street disc. When the clutch dies depends on how you drive it. If you do launches every other traffic light, it won't last too long.

This is very true, your amount of torque that your clutch set up puts down doesnt solely rely on what pressure plate you get... The disc will also have a say in the matter obviously.
Selection of the right disc will also have an impact on shifting imo, i find a liking to the kevlar style discs. Ive ran a 2600 on a fwd before and it was harsh and needed clutch rod extension, but it wasnt too hard to get used to. It makes you throw the car in neutral a lot more instead of holding your foot down on the pedal thats for sure.
Ive never used the act2100 but I use a south bend kevlar/ceramic clutch w/ a 2200 pressure plate on my laser and I dont even feel its enough if i were to upgrade to the 50trim with my driving style and my likelyness of trying to max out a pump gas 50trim setup.. Though its true that awd cars put much more stress on the clutch than the fwds do, a heavy portion of the clutches life and longevity will be based upon the driving habits and hard use put upon it.
The best advice for clutches lasting would be to let it cool down between launches and hard runs especially with a lot of slipping the clutch involved..:thumb:
 
i said i want the 2100 because i dont want a really heavy clutch this is my dd,so if im planning on staying at 350whp will this clutch do the job or will it break after a short while?

I run a unsprung 4 puck 2600 on the street everyday. The pedal is a little stiffer but not a pain to use on a daily basis. Mine has a little chatter while taking off slowly because of the unsprung center but nothing major.
 
hows the pressure on the pedal and is there really a big diffrence between the 4 and 6 puck?
The pedal pressure has to do with the pressure plate, i.e. ACT 2100 or 2600. The disc doesn't make a difference in pedal pressure, but it does make a difference in clamping power. My 6 puck has very little chatter, but it is a pain to drive in heavy stand still traffic where cars move about 2 feet every few seconds. A unsprung 4 puck disc will put more abuse on a tranny than a sprung 6 puck disc. Some companies also make unsprung 6 puck discs, but for a street car either go with a street disc or a sprung puck disc. One good benefit (could also be considered a downside) of a puck disc is that when it gets hot, it doesn't slip as much as a street disc. While this may sound like a good idea, it is hard on the flywheel and the also the transmission if you drop the clutch during a launch.
 
I recall in one of jake montgomery * evil evils thread that his shifting improved a lot when he went to a twin disc set up and how harsh the shifting is on the syncros in comparison due to heavy pressure plates... Therefore if the op went 2100 it probably would put less stress on the tranny vs the 2600,( depending on clutch disc selected of course.) even though i still recommend the 2600.
 
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