The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ABSOLUTELY no power past 3k rpm! Please help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

awdtalon4451

15+ Year Contributor
521
0
Aug 23, 2007
Ocean springs, Mississippi
To start it off I own a 95 GSX with a 6-bolt swap and im fairly new to DSM"S. I was driving my car home the other morning and all of a sudden it started running like shit and SUPER rich. My AFR went from 14.5-.7 to about 11.0- 12 at idle and 10.5-11.5 while creeping home. Also my boost gauge dropped all the way down as if the car was off, even when I was cruising it wasnt showing any vaccum or boost. I figured I had blew an ICP off or a vaccum leak. Got home and looked everywhere for a leak or coupler that had blown off and found NOTHING! I even went to the extent of pulling my front bumper to check my front mount and still nothing. In the mist off me looking for the culprit I started my car, only for it to struggle to stay running. It will rev to about 3k rpm, anything higher it starts missing and puttering really bad. So needless to say im stumped and in need of your assistance. Thanks for you help in advance (good or bad)
 
if I remember right this was my very first problem ever, and if I remember right if it is not a boost leak it is one of the mighty three, cas is messed up, injectors are bad, or fried or messed up ecu.... I replaced all three at the same time and problem went away.
 
Well the ECU is brand spanking new from ECMTuning so I know for sure its not that. As for the injectors they have some age on them. They came with the 6-bolt I got from Japan. I made a boost leak tester last night and attempted to use it but my 12v air compressor (ROFL It all i had on hand) lacked the punch I need. I brought it to autozone earlier to ave it scanned an it threw the code for the MAF sensor and thats all. At first I thought it might have been the downstream O2 sensor but im not sure it would cause problems like these, What do you think?
 
I would suggest pulling out your ECU and checking the capacitors. If they appear to have "leaked" or don't look normal, replace them. Be sure to inspect them very closely because sometimes the leak can be right under the capacitor. I had the same problem and it was a 3 dollar fix. There should be a thread on here or on VFAQ about it.
 
Wait a second?

You have ECMlink and went to have your DTC's read? Or did you just buy a stock ecu from ECM tuning?

If the ecu is not seeing airflow in the parameters it requires it is going to run like dog poo. My 1g will barely idle with the maf disconnected. Sounds like you know where to start. I would check to make sure the plug is in and free of any corrosion, and I would check the wiring. If that checks out you more than likely have a dead maf.
 
Wait a second?

You have ECMlink and went to have your DTC's read? Or did you just buy a stock ecu from ECM tuning?

If the ecu is not seeing airflow in the parameters it requires it is going to run like dog poo. My 1g will barely idle with the maf disconnected. Sounds like you know where to start. I would check to make sure the plug is in and free of any corrosion, and I would check the wiring. If that checks out you more than likely have a dead maf.

Its a Stock 2G EPROM from them, Wish i had ECMLink LOL. As for your comment about the MAF, I had an extra laying around the house and swapped them out, either i have 2 DOA MAF's or it is a boost leak. Lets just say their is a decent sized leak somewhere in the intercooler piping, could the MAF code be caused by the leak?
 
Well I did the boost leak test and all I could find is a small leak around the throttle body but its definitly not enough to make my car run this bad. I have a new MAF on the way. It should be here some time thursday.
 
Boost leak is what I suspect as well, if there isn't a CEL on.

There is a CEL on, I had it scanned a couple of days ago but the only code it pulled I believe was P0100 (MAF sensor). Im crossing my fingers hoping my MAF is dead. If not Im definitly gonna look at the CAS next.
 
if its not the MAF, check to see if any cylinders are misfiring, may be a dead igntion coil. i just bought a 95 talon also and am having same probs, thought it was alternator or MAF or injectors, turns out it is the Ignition coil. easy fix and cheap.
 
Well I swapped out the new MAF and it ddnt change a damn thing. Checked my coilpack and all cylinders are firing. Even checked my AFC to see if something got changed on mistake. Sucks to say but Im running out of options. All I have left to check is my CAS before I break down and bring it to a shop :cry:
 
check your spark plugs, wires,and possibly fuel pump. you have checked for the air problems and it wasnt that so check spark and fuel!
 
Just because you just put in a modded ECM doesn't rule it out, in fact since it's a recent addition it's more of a suspect than anything else. Pull it out and have a look. Your symtoms do not make sense.
 
Well I had this problem quite awhile back and it was nothing mentioned here believe it or not .. I had to take my throttle body off ,clean it and change my TPS ( throttle position sensor ) and the problem stopped
 
93eclipse how about you not try to hikack my thread. As for the fuel pump its a brand new Walbro 255 w/ new fuel filter. I know its not spark because already pulled them watched them hit. I have asked a couple of times throughout this thread but it seems to get over looked. What about the down-stream O2 sensor? I already checked the up-stream but it works. If its bad then could it be the cause for it dumping all the fuel? Please help me clear this up.
 
93eclipse how about you not try to hikack my thread. As for the fuel pump its a brand new Walbro 255 w/ new fuel filter. I know its not spark because already pulled them watched them hit. I have asked a couple of times throughout this thread but it seems to get over looked. What about the down-stream O2 sensor? I already checked the up-stream but it works. If its bad then could it be the cause for it dumping all the fuel? Please help me clear this up.

did you put in a fpr with the new pump that could be ## problem right there
 
well obviously your problem isn't fuel related since it ends up running rich. since the car uses a MAF, it uses the maf signal to decide how much fuel to add. so your problem is after the maf causing the car to lose a LOT of air. and if your boost gauge is reading 0 psi for boost then you are leaking it all off(also explains the maf code). and it will start to miss and run like crap if it is TOO rich...so you have a HUGE boost leak somewhere

if all else fails, try spraying carb cleaner around where the intake manifold bolts to the head...if anything happens then you have a warped intake(common problem ### they're aluminum) and it would just need to be machined down a bit
 
I'm not sure if this could be related at all, but my buddy had the same exact problem with his 95 GSX. Wouldn't rev past 3K without sputtering and misfiring horribly. Also wouldn't create vaccumn over 1PSI. Turns out it was his valve seals. Not saying that it is, but the two situations are ironically the same. Although your CEL is what I'd go by.
 
I'm not sure if this could be related at all, but my buddy had the same exact problem with his 95 GSX. Wouldn't rev past 3K without sputtering and misfiring horribly. Also wouldn't create vaccumn over 1PSI. Turns out it was his valve seals. Not saying that it is, but the two situations are ironically the same. Although your CEL is what I'd go by.

Nightgammer Im running the stock 2g FPR, I was told my a friend of mine that it is sufficent to run a 255. Im only running stock boost. He claims he's been running the same for the past 6 months with no issues . As for the head and valve seals its a brand new head. Well let me refraise that, it has been reworked and has less that 200 miles on it. So it sure as hell better not be that. Honestly im over-whelmed by all the potiential problems it could be :barf:.
 
the boost gauge on the dash? or an actual mechanical boost gauge?

the dash uses the MAF's airflow to estimate boost, as well as load and RPM.

Sounds like either an ignition issue or the CAS

Sorry when I said boost gauge I meant to inform that its the stock gauge, I know it not accurate I only use it an idicator that the turbo is spooling. I was in the process of ordering my MBC and mechanical gauge when all this went down. If it is an ignition issue where would you start looking? Also I just want to say thanks to everyone for helping me out
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top